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The ampullary

Ampullaires: marketing still possible in France!
On November 8, 2012, the European Commission published an implementing decision relating to measures intended to prevent the introduction and spread in the Union of the genus Pomacea (Perry). But ...

By letter of December 11, 2012, we asked the Minister of Ecology and Sustainable Development to exclude Pomacea diffusa species banned from commercialization during the transcription of European text n ° [C (2012) 7803) - (2012 / 697 / EU)] in French law. ( ).
In her response dated April 23, the Minister maintains the ban on the genus Pomacea in its entirety but does not request the destruction of the stocks and authorizes its detention in private homes.

See also "Some thoughts on Ampullaria banned from importation, sale and circulation".

Surprising (although ...) more than 6 years after the publication of the European decision, the text is still not transcribed in French legislation! This is what the "office of invasive alien species" of the Ministry of Ecological and Solidarity Transition has confirmed to us, to which we publish the full response below:

"Apparently the 2012 implementing decision has not been transcribed into national texts; at the same time Pomacea is not one of the species regulated under EEE, so there is no regulatory objection to it. marketing, possession, transport, .... of the species.
Nevertheless, we are working on lists of priority species at the national level, and as part of a forthcoming update of the 2018 decrees, it would indeed be appropriate to include the species ... "

Conclusion: to this day, in France, ampullaria can still be marketed, transported ...

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

The Pomacea Bridgesii, more commonly known as the ampullary, can measure up to 6.5 cm in diameter. It has soft teeth which means that it is unable to nibble on any plant (unlike its cousin the Pomacea Canaliculata which, having hard teeth, can eat plants and dead fish remains). They live from one and a half to four years. Ampullaria are not hermaphrodites. They have two respiratory systems, a gill and a lung that allows them to live temporarily out of water. Its sale or transfer was prohibited in November 2012 because its cousin the Canaliculata is a great gourmand of plants that, unlike the brigesii, it has the ability to devour. It was released by individuals into our rivers and caused damage to micro-fauna. As they look very similar (see diagrams) the authorities preferred to ban all ampullary. Detention is not, however, prohibited.

Pomacea Bridgesii Pomacea Canaliculata

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

The ampulla is acclimatized like a fish, that is to say: we soak the bag in the aquarium we leave it for about 20 minutes by pouring water from the aquarium in small quantities, then we catch the ampulla and we can put it in its new habitat.

Many colors exist: the best known are yellows, called Gold, there are also blues, purples, pinks, browns etc. Regarding hybridization: a yellow male with a blue female will give greens that are not necessarily uniform.

They also have an operculum which functions as a door so that the snail does not dry out if it is faced with a lack of water. This operculum also works as a defense against certain overly curious fish and also against a rise in nitrites (without protecting them from these No2 to which they are very sensitive anyway)
the ampullaria also have an appendix which extends so that the snail can breathe while remaining under water, this trick protects them in the nature of birds.

There is a minimum of 50 liters for an ampullary and a minimum of 10 liters per additional ampullary. So don't plan on keeping those snails in nanos. They are still part of the larger species and have minimal needs. You also need a well-planted, quartz-free tank which turns out to be sharp for their feet.
Choose a decor that rises upwards on which the ampullaria can climb.
The temperature of the tank must be around 25 ° C to make them grow, otherwise they obviously coexist perfectly in cool water with the axolotls.
A container with a lid is recommended or leave a margin of at least 10 cm because they are brought out of the water to lay their bunch.

The ampullary must especially not be maintained with Botias or Anetomes Helena which will get the better of it, and will bite it. Some fish may also, out of curiosity or play, bite their antennae, neon lights, bearded for example, will not play, like most very lively fish. If you put them with your axolotls do not forget that they may want to grab them so no ampullae of less than 2 cm or even 3 depending on the size of your kitties of course. If the snail is as wide as the axolotl's mouth, no problem.

The shell
Regular water changes promote good water remineralization and therefore keep hard water with stable parameters. This water, therefore rich in calcium, is necessary for the health of their shell . For people with a water softener or simply too soft pipe water, it is necessary to mineralize (harden the water) either through limestone or powdered crustacean shells (especially not with axolotls because these shells contain iodine) or by using Préis, an iodine-free remineralizer. Food plays an important role in calcium intake (next paragraph) If the calcium level drops, their shells will start to become porous, the color will be duller, and eventually the shells will be holed, the ampullary will not survive to term because it will not be able to keep its precious air pocket to live under water. It is necessary to maintain a PH above 7 and a very hard water.

The food
Ampullaria are fond of vegetables like carrots, cucumbers, zucchini, spinach and salad. They certainly eat the remains of food and waste from fish and axolotls but that is not enough for them, no need to take these pretty snails if you do not plan to feed them properly. They also eat algae, but will not clean your aquarium. You can either poach these vegetables (in a small bowl or large glass put the pieces in a few cm of water and one minute in the microwave to soften the vegetables) or freeze the pieces and rings and then distribute them without thawing them in order to that they flow easily.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

The temperatures

The ampullary thrives in temperatures varying between 18 degrees and 26 degrees. The higher the temperature, the more its metabolism accelerates, this increases reproduction but its life will also be shortened, so out of respect for its life, do not try to provoke an egg laying, let Mother Nature do it. His ideal remains at 20-22 degrees.


The reproduction

You need a male and a female because the ampullaria are not hermaphroditic, however differentiating them is not always obvious (facing you against the glass you may possibly notice an appendage on the right side of the male while the female will present an orifice. ). It is better to plan several snails to have a couple. Factors favoring reproduction are abundant food and slight increases in temperature due to seasonal changes. the male mounts on the female and stays stuck for a while and when the mating has taken place the female will be able to lay a cluster of eggs, this can take place 4 days later, just like 15. In the evening, when the eggs are ready, the female comes out of the water to deposit them in clusters in the dry. This can be on the lid of an aquarium or simply against the glass. This is why it is important to leave space above the surface of the water (at least 10cm).


They are deposited pale pink cluster which will darken and harden as it dries, that is to say in 24 hours. If you want to take them out after laying to move them to another aquarium, then wait this time to do so without risk of crushing the cluster. If you do not want to have young to avoid overcrowding immediately put the bunch to soak in water so that no life can develop. Do you want to move the cluster? Once it is fixed, and after waiting for it to dry completely, gently peel it off with a razor blade and put it on a floating base (bottom of a plastic bottle, cork above the water to keep a certain level of humidity, if you feel that the humidity is not sufficient you can lightly vaporize the bunch once every two days (no more so that it does not rot). Following births often monitor the pH and do not hesitate to put a limestone for the good development of the shell of the young. A plastic bottle bottom can be cut in order to deposit the bunches on the surface of a heated aquarium, lapped and if possible closed (to keep a certain humidity) and this until the 15th day at the time of hatching: P


It takes place 2 weeks or even 3 after the laying, we see the bunch turn white or gray, which indicates that the hatching is close. The little snails drop into the water, but watch out for some fish that want to eat them. It is best to keep the young in a separate container or transfer the eggs before they hatch.

  My snail floats, is it dead?

No, nothing more normal it sometimes remains like that closed lid, it can also hibernate for weeks if the water is too cold. On the other hand if it seems badly in point or dead quickly remove it in order to avoid a significant pollution and rise of nitrites, because the ampullary is not small!

I have to treat my aquarium, are there any risks for the ampullaria?

Regarding dewormers and all products containing malachite green (copper), yes it is imperative to remove your snails on pain of seeing them die.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.


Freshwater snails live in temperatures between 18 ° C and 28 ° C but a temperature of 24 ° C is recommended. They have a shorter lifespan in higher temperatures because they grow faster. An aquarium of at least 50 liters (with cover) for an individual then counted 10 liters per additional snail, taking into account the other residents of the aquarium which uses the same standard of living as the ampullaria. They are compatible with almost all floors except quartz which is sharp to their feet and soils containing copper.

Kit for the acquisition of one or more ampullaries

1 aquarium of at least 50 liters with cover. Substrate: sand, gravel, micro balls, etc. Heating ideally set to 24 ° C. Quite powerful pump and real plants.

Prohibited products or cohabitants.

No copper or copper-containing products (fertilizers, products to treat disease esha2000 fish ... Snail-eating snails the Anentome Helena.. Fish-eating snails as botia Fish highly aggressive as some cichlids.

The food.

Omnivorous snails, which eat a little of everything; carrots, cucumber, spinach, salad. They also feed on dead fish as well as bottom pellets. You have to feed them every day or every 2 days if you give them vegetables. Carrots: cook the carrots in water, like us, so that they are tender. Then freeze them to kill the bacteria and make them sink. Leave for two days in the aquarium and remove if everything is not consumed within 48 hours. Cucumber or zucchini: cut into slices then put in the freezer to kill bacteria and let them run. Leave for two days and withdraw if not consumed in 24 hours. The whirlpool method for eating fish food (sinks the flakes to the bottom). Food tested and approved by the ampus: Base pastille to stick on the windows and food mixture for shrimps. Frozen cube spinach. Apple and carrot pellet.

The reproduction

Unlike many snails which are hermaphrodites, the ampulla is sexual, so you have to have a male and a female to reproduce. During mating, the male is positioned on the side of the female to penetrate her. Mating can last several hours. This does not always mean a laying, but more often a few days after, the female comes out of the water to lay eggs. There must be a space of 10 cm out of the water. She lays a cluster of several eggs. The first spawning is usually sterile. Once laid, the eggs will take 12 to 20 days to hatch. After a few days, the bunch will start to turn white, then small holes will appear. Then the babies come out of the cluster and drop into the water. To hatch, the bunches need special temperature and humidity conditions. If it is too dry or too humid they will not "ripen". Mating. (photo to come)

Colors There are several different colors in the ampullary, the shell can be white, yellow, pink, blue, brown, black, purple ... solid color or lineage. The foot also has several colors including yellow, white and black.

The growth

The ampulla may take on lighter shades as it grows. He will need a supply of calcium throughout his life but even more during growth. The tip of the shell takes on a whitish tint during the growth spurt if it finds enough calcium and food, it will quickly happen again. Calcium intake can be done either with a dry bone, or by putting an eggshell. For cuttlefish bones, it should be put on for a day or two at most and then removed because it can modify the water parameters. Eggshell cleaned to remove thin inner membrane. . Change the eggshells every week. Dry bone for turtle.


Cause of decalcification and cracking: Lack of food. The over population. Poor water quality. Water too soft. Ph below 7. Drop in aquarium caused by foraging. Fall of the aquarium due to the search for a place to lay eggs. Attack of certain other animals (Botia, window cleaner, planorb, ... Disease Calcium intake, varied and adapted food is very important throughout their life. A lack of calcium, food leads to decalcification of the shell. which leads to holes, cracks and eventually the death of the snail.

The Different Stages of Decalcifications.

  Decalcification of the shell and non-spread crack. Protected flesh Crack, spread unprotected flesh Shell cracked and open, flesh unprotected.


Be careful not to reproduce the ampullae among themselves if they are from the same family, this leads to malformations, sterile snails, or the death of the offspring for no reason. Example of malformation the operculum shrinks by half.


Scientific name: Viviparus viviparus

(Linnaeus, 1758)

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.


In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Origin: Europe

Family: Viviparidae

Subfamily: Viviparinae

Size: 3 to 4 cm

Breathing: airborne through lungs

Temperature: 0 to 25 ° C

Usefulness: ...

Note: do not consume the plants

Particularity: ovoviviparous


This gastropod has a greenish yellow shell with three light brown lines. It lives in medium-flow streams and in many ways resembles Ampullariidae although it belongs to another family.

It is nowadays distributed in several points of the globe, including North America.

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