PLANTS COMPATIBLE WITH OUR AXOLOTLS IN COLD WATER
Plants participate in aesthetics but also and above all in the health of the aquarium by absorbing waste and organic compounds and by producing oxygen. The plants also offer hiding places and pleasant hammocks for our kitties. And are used as a spawning place. They de-stress the axolotls and allow them to cling to them in the event of aerophagia as in nature,) and without having to stress them more by placing them in a tupp or plastic bin)
They will have the following characteristics:
Deep rooting or floating plants;
Growth if possible medium or fast;
Adaptation to temperatures recommended for axolotls;
Other more general considerations: lighting adapted to the growth of the plant in question + aesthetics + size (height, maximum width?) + Price.
Here is a group of aquatic plants (click on the icon)
Here are some examples of adapted and proven plants, with their characteristics (but there are others!):
1) Vallisneria spiralis : moderate to strong light. Temperature: 18 ° C-26 ° C. pH: 6.5-7.8. Background. Vallisneria spiralis is a background plant or even for the intermediate zone. It is easy to maintain. Ideally, the aquarium should be high enough to accommodate it (it very often exceeds 50 cms). But since the leaves are very thin, if they weren't, Vallisneria spiralis wouldn't give too much shade to the plants living below by floating on the surface. The growth of Vallisneria spiralis is rapid and runners are constantly produced. Let the top of the rhizhome protrude slightly above the substrate.
2) Vallisneria gigantea : a background plant or for the intermediate zone. Temperature: 18 ° C-27 ° C. pH: 6-9. Because of its very high height (50 cm to 1 meter and more), it is rather suitable for very large tanks (where there, even with a high water height, the leaves will probably end up floating). It is very easy to maintain as long as the water is not too soft. The growth of Vallisneria gigantea is rapid and runners (cuttings by shoots) are produced regularly. Let the top of the rhizome protrude slightly above the substrate.
1) Vallisneria Asiatica : Thanks to its green spiral leaves, Vallisneria americana var. asiatica gives a nice contrast effect when planted in groups. From 18 to 28 C °. Ph 6 to 8.5. Background plant. Easy to maintain.
A size of all your vallisnerias is easy a "summer cut" will take 5 minutes to be done.
Lentils, frogs, pistias, etc. are also welcome in our containers.
(Be careful, however, regarding duckweed which can quickly become invasive).
3) Hygrophila polysperma : it is the perfect plant when starting the aquarium. With little regard for water parameters, its very rapid growth both significantly reduces nitrates and phosphates and therefore offers strong competition to the algae which often mark the first months of an aquarium's life and of '' have a container already nicely planted in just a few weeks. The color and shape of the leaves vary depending on the lighting (the upper leaves, for example, have a superb pinkish hue). When it arrives at the surface, it nevertheless has a tendency to bend: also, it is useful at this stage to head it off. Multiplication: it is possible to cut off the suckers or the top of the mother stem (a good ten centimeters will allow a faster recovery): we will let them float for a few days until small roots appear and we will remove them. any lower leaves before pushing them delicately into the ground. Fast growing, especially if the water is hard.
Here is a very effective and safe glue for gluing mosses or various plants on your decorations, rocks, etc.
4) Egeria densa : hardy plant with ultra-fast growth and large producer of oxygen: it absorbs a significant amount of nitrates and phosphates and even secretes toxins that slow down the development of cyanobacteria (bacteria resembling algae and being able to photo synthesize : they used to be called "blue algae"). Its development being ultra-fast, it will be necessary to take care that it does not obscure the plants living below (topping when the plant begins to bend at the surface). If there is no light, it loses its lower leaves, leaving only the stem: to avoid this inconvenience, it is sufficient to maintain a small space of a few centimeters between each plant. It is perfect when starting the aquarium (competition of size with algae which often mark the first months of the life of an aquarium). High temperatures do not suit her for a long time and she prefers water on the alkaline side. Propagation: lateral suckers to be cut when they reach 10 to 15 cm. A gap of 3 to 4 cm between each stem will allow the light to pass to the ground.
5) java mousse
(to attach with fishing line or to a stump or a stone): forms a kind of carpet.
6) Cladophora aegagropila : a ball of algae that absorbs nitrates? Well I would say like all plants, except that this one can bring the filamentous algae into the aquarium if it deteriorates, so be careful ... Intense lighting highly recommended. pH: indifferent. It is useful to turn it over regularly if you want it to keep its initial shape, and to "wring it out". from time to time to rid it of the impurities it may have stored.
7) Echinodorus bleheri is a beautiful and undemanding plant at the same time, but it should not be forgotten to prune it regularly so that it does not take too much light from the plants that grow under it. E. Bleheri also tolerates dimly lit containers well: it will grow on its own in the direction of the light. It is an undemanding solitary and easy to maintain, whether you are a novice or experienced aquarist as long as it is not put in a tank that is too small. It is sometimes sold under the trade name of Paniculatus.
8) Ludwigia Repens : a very fast growing plant if the lighting is good / pH: 6.5-7.8. Lighting: intense. It changes color depending on the power of the lighting (from green to yellow through pink as close as possible to the light). Intense lighting recommended for optimal growth.
9) Riccia Fluitans : surface plant that appreciates cold water and the nitrates produced by goldfish. pH: 5.5-7.8. Lighting: strong to very strong. Goldfish consume it but, under good conditions (intense lighting and addition of CO2 recommended), they will not overcome it as it grows quickly! Note: it is also possible to ballast it on a stone or on a stump using fishing line.
10) Anubia nana : very weak to moderate lighting. Preferably place it in the shade if the aquarium is very bright. Otherwise, its growth being slow, algae would tend to develop on its magnificent leaves and then suffocate it. Temperature: 22 ° -26 ° C. pH: 6.0 - 8.0. It must be attached to a stone, volcanic rock, or stump. It can be fixed with fishing line at first, until the roots are fixed on the chosen support: avoid burying the rhizome (this would rot the plant). Ideal in the foreground.
11) Elocharis Acicularis requires a rather intense light to favor in the foreground of your aquarium multiply by buds, will thrive in a ph of 6.5 to 7.2 at temperatures ranging from 10 to 25 ° C of slow growth.
12) Lilaeopsis brasiliensis , is also placed in the foreground, with a ph of 6 to 8 and a temperature of 15 to 26 ° C, for a rather slow growth.
13) Lysimachia Nummularia is placed at the bottom and on the sides for a ph of 6 to 8 with intense lighting and temperatures between 15 and 25 ° C. Its growth is very rapid. For a KH between 5 and 15. Its growth is rapid.
14) Hydrocotyle leucocephala : Fast growing, adapts easily, grows well in relatively hard water. As soon as it is installed in the aquarium, it will be attracted to the light and the surface of the water on which it will propagate. Can very well be grown as a non-rooted floating plant.
Small lexicon of plants from dennerle by didier crick
view in pdf
15) Ceratophyllum demersum is a strictly aquatic plant. It does not have a root and it is common to see it floating in the aquarium, but some of its leaves turn into anchoring organs (rhizoids) ...
16) Microsorum Pteropus var. Windelov var. Windelov