Axolotls et cie, soins
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BASIC PHARMACY

Produit de base : 
- Du mercurochrome (pour désinfecter). 
- De la bétadine (pour désinfecter). 
- Du bleu de méthylène (pour désinfecter, contre les points blancs, les contagions). 
- Du F.M.C (contre les mycoses et infections externes de parasites unicellulaires). 
- Du Metronidazole/Flagyl (contre la maladie des trous). 
- Du Flubendazole(contre les vers intestinaux, les vers de la peau et des branchies). 
- De la tétracycline (en dernier recours). 
- L'argent colloïdal est une substance pré-biotique, anti septique et antibiotique !
- Un désinfectant général (pour les maladies sans symptômes) (Sera Omnipur). 
- Un produit contre les bactéries (Sera Baktopur, Melafix, arbre à thé). 
- Un produit contre les mycoses et les infections (eSHa-2000)

- Un produit contre l'oddinium et les points blancs ( esha exit). 
- Un produit contre les champignons (Sera Mycopur et contre les vers de peau et de branchies combiner avec       Sera ektopur ). 
- Un produit anti-fongique(Pimafix,  à base de Pimenta, bois d'inde ). 

Pour ou contre l'argent colloïdal ?

Concernant la réponse de mon confrère le Dr Meunier, je suis entièrement d'accord avec lui. Scientifiquement l'argent colloïdal présente de nombreuses contres indications, et une efficacité très limitée. Maintenant des personnes l'utilisent sans noter de problèmes. Cela ne veut pas dire qu'il n'y en a pas, et je rejoins mon confrère sur le questionnement concernant les risques chroniques.  

 

Il en est de même pour de nombreux produits dont on revient en arrière, le bleu de méthylène, le vert de malachite, le sulfate de cuivre... Même si des efficacité ponctuelles peuvent être reconnues, cela n'empêche pas les effets cancérigènes, destructeurs rénaux, hémolytique, accumulation tissulaire, perturbations endocriniennes, troubles de la reproduction, effet tératogène, et les questions de pollutions environnementales...

Toutes ces questions étaient bien loin d'être réfléchies au moyen âge, et jusqu'il y a quelques décennies.

Associé à cela aucune étude valable ne confirme l'efficacité de l'argent colloïdal, d'où la réserve de mon confrère que je partage.

 

L'efficacité du bleu de méthylène en terme curatif à été complètement contredite scientifiquement. Le seul intérêt prouvé est un effet bacteriostatique, il empêche les milieux aquatiques de tourner. Concernant la toxicité il n'y a pas de consensus. Dr Jérôme Blanc

 

Un troisième vétérinaire conseille et utilise l argent colloïdal. 

Et un second dit ceci à propos du bleu de méthylène :

"L'efficacité du bleu de méthylène en terme curatif à été complètement contredite scientifiquement. Le seul intérêt prouvé est un effet b1cteriostatiuqe, il empêche les milieux aquatiques de tourner. Concernant la toxicité il n'y a pas de consensus. "

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Je suis bien d'accord, c'est compliqué. Parce qu'aucun produit n'a été vraiment testé dans des conditions expérimentales strictes (c'est à dire en menant des essais pouvant conduire à la mort d'animaux, pour voir jusqu'où on peut aller).

En regardant la bibliographie, on trouve de tout, c'est pour ça que je parle de doute raisonnable. Je me réfère à mes deux sources biblio les plus récentes, Exotic animal formulary, et Handbook of exotic pet medicine, qui ne mentionnent pas l'argent colloïdal, mais le bleu (avec deux dosages différents !).

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Conclusion : Les avis divergent, car rien n'a jamais été clairement défini et testé jusqu'au bout. Il faut donc utiliser ces traitements avec parcimonie et ne pas en abuser, beaucoup ont tendance à bien trop traiter leurs axolotls, les épuisant et ruinant leurs défenses immunitaires. Relisez bien l'article sur l'argent colloïdal tiré du livre Le véritable argent colloïdal : un antibiotique naturel oublié.   Chacun de ces deux traitements utilisé avec parcimonie respectera vos aquatiques, différenciez bien le rôle du bleu de méthylène et de l'argent colloïdal.

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Tuto Aquadocteur.com  : "incorporation de médicaments et compléments dans l'aliment de type granulés".

Les traitements par l'alimentation peuvent être très utiles pour les poissons de bassins. Que ce soit pour un traitement ou pour complémenter la ration alimentaire, c'est une voie d'administration parfois irremplaçable pour la prise en charge de ces animaux.

Le Dr. Jérôme Blanc vous propose un Tuto simple pour la réalisation d'un aliment complémenté de manière homogène et efficace.

N'hésitez pas à faire des essais avant d'être dans une phase de traitement d'urgence, par exemple en ajoutant des vitamines dans la ration. Vos poissons n'en seront qu'en meilleure forme et vous maitriserez la technique pour pouvoir être opérationnel rapidement en cas de problème, tout en diminuant leur méfiance vis à vis de ces granulés complémentés. .

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METHYLENE BLUE

The Methylene Blue is increasingly difficult to obtain, because pharmacies are less and less their preparations themselves; you have lower Betadine and Mercurochrome even more effective, at least concerning the antiseptic virtues.

Commander du bleu de méthylène

preparer sa solution de bleu de methylene

HOLTFRETER SOLUTION

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Holtfreter solution is an aqueous solution used primarily in aquariums to prevent infections in early stage amphibians. It is usually mixed with mains water. invented by Johannes Holtfreter, German biologist and zoologist who has carried out numerous studies on the cells of amphibian embryos.

This solution is therefore used either in an aquarium or in a hospital tank.

In various cases such as dermal pathologies, spawning appearing to be fungus (concentration at 10-20%), to help the healing of the skin of amphibians (concentration at 50 or 100%), and in the event of prophylaxis (concentration at 40-50%).

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

You can ask for your preparation at the pharmacy for more convenience or improvise yourself as a chemist by respecting the following doses: - 3.46 g NaCl (sodium chloride, non-iodized) - 0.05 g KCl (potassium chloride) - 0.1 g CaCl2 (Calcium Chloride) - 0.2 g NaHCO3 (Sodium Bicarbonate) in a liter of water at pH 7.5.

Guérande salt, which does not contain any additional iodine addition, can also be used instead of dishwasher salt during treatments. It is very well tolerated. But only Guérande salt, be careful!

NON-IODIZED SALT

The salts act as anti fungal and therefore kill fungi (mycosis), they also serve as an anti poison to purge the absorption of drugs or toxic products, and promote osmo regulation (skin / interior and exterior water exchange) allowing amphibians to be able to better absorb care and more easily recover the oxygen contained in the water. you must always have it at home to be able to react quickly.

• Table salts are all enriched with iodine except gray Guérande salt (which still contains it naturally but in tiny traces so no risk) so you have to buy either Guérande salt or Regenerating salt for dishwashers. (It's always surprising but yes it's still simple salt not enriched in iodine and containing only tiny traces, it is the most suitable, because the least iodized.

Here are examples of widely used brands like Apta or Calgonit which are perfectly suited as well as the Carrefour or Leclerc brands, etc. The important thing is to be on a 100% NaCl formulation. Do not buy the Sun brand which contains additives.

(Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site)

61HGLvToz8L._SL1249_.jpg
sel non iodé pour mycoses axolotls
sel non iodé pour mycoses axolotls
sel non iodé ane pas utiliser pour mycoses axolotls

SALT

Adding salt increases the ion concentration of the water. There are 2 salt treatments and one does not have the same usefulness as the other!

1: osmotic rest.

A small concentration of salt in the aquarium water makes it easier for some fish to recover from illness or injury (the best example is betta), freshwater fish have a concentration of salt in the blood higher than that of water (unlike saltwater fish in which it is quite the opposite), aquarium water is therefore always absorbed by their body to avoid bursting they must continually reject it (through the gills or urine). A light addition of salt alleviates this work of elimination and allows the fish to fight more effectively against illness or injury!
In addition, the salt is slightly antiseptic and healing (I myself tested it on a betta whose veil had been torn by the filter).
The doses used for "osmotic rest" do not require the tank to be gradually desalted afterwards! this will happen naturally as the water changes.

1 teaspoon of salt for 10 liters of water (Non-iodized, preferably from Guérande)
This treatment is absolutely not appreciated by plants and invertebrates!
CAUTION: fish living in very fresh water and those with very thin skin are particularly sensitive to this treatment!

2: antiparasitic treatment

Adding salt to the water increases the osmotic pressure, bacteria and protozoa cannot resist this sudden change! In this case, it is important to gradually desalt.

5grams of salt per liter then add a little salt every 2 hours until reaching 10g per liter. Salt is used for the following diseases: chilodonnelosis, costiosis, diplozoonosis, fungus, gyrodactilosis, white spots, myxozomiasis, oodinium, discus plague, saprolegniosis, achlya, trichodinosis, against leeches and hydras as well as intoxication with no² or ammonia.

After healing remove and replace 1/3 of the water then change 50% of the water and finally a new change of 50% (this spread over several hours)

It is also possible to use this treatment but in a short bath but beware this treatment is much more stressful and toxic for the fish! watch it closely! 20g per liter of water in a container with a bubbler to oxygenate the water, raise the temperature of the container by 2 ° compared to the temperature of the tank. Bath of 15 minutes maximum unless the fish show the slightest sign of distress. Then reintroduce the fish in its tank after having very gradually desalted its "bath" by drip!

Betadine
This famous disinfectant can be very effective on our axolotls! The "methylene blue being more and more difficult to find and having less antiseptic virtues than betadine, do not hesitate! If your axo is injured brush the injured part with betadine (in gel it turns out much more practice) by means of a cotton swab Betadine contains 10% iodine but veterinarians use it during operations and advise it because the quantity is tiny and not harmful during a simple application.

homeopathy

Euphrasia officinalis 9CH: remedy against inflammation of the ocular mucous membranes, conjunctivitis, ulceration of the cornea = in a fish or exophthalmos axunm.
3 granules in the tank regardless of the liter and this until complete recovery and continue at the same dosage for another 5 to 6 days.

Mercurochrome

The disinfectant mercurochrome is used either by touching wounds and ulcers, or in a 2% aqueous solution. The dose of 10 drops per 10 l of water. Doses of 3 drops per 10 I can be used for preventive care; plants with large leaves do not tolerate this treatment well

Other drugs that can be used as leads for your vet



Some of these treatments can be combined with permanent salt baths or not in order to facilitate their absorption.

Baytril : Enrofloxacin 5% ( VETERINARY ANTIBIOTIC )

At a proportion of 0.5 ml / 1.5 l for 10/15 minutes with salt 3 teaspoons in 1.5 liters of water for a week more rest in the refrigerator (all the way down 9 ° C).
So here it is a treatment prescribed by a veterinarian, antibiotic and antifungal. Some may die because, depending on the extent of the lesions, the axolotls can no longer get oxygen. As this treatment is only available on prescription, it is given to you to possibly help your own veterinarian if he does not practice care on amphibians and in particular axolotls.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Mycolicin (chloramphenicol)

Molecule that can be used in cases of internal infection (ascites) or generalized (hemorrhage, edema). It is used in a permanent bath at the rate of 40 drops per liter of water for a week

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Marbocyl (marbofoxacin)

Can be used as a permanent bath: 0.75 ml / L over a week, or by injection: 5 units per day over a period of 10 days.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Baytril (enrofoxacin) concentration at 2.5% orally: Dosages vary according to the type of condition (internal or external). Can also be used in B ain, if intensive it will be one ml for 1.5 liters of water and for a week for a permanent bath it has been recommended 0.4ml per liter of water and for a longer duration ie 20 days.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

LOTIONS AND OINTMENTS

Ketorderm (persistent mycoses less questionable additives than in Temerol according to a specialist veterinarian)

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Sporiline 1% (tolnaftate)

Localized mycosis (on the surface or in a cyst). Local application: once a day for six days.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Fradexam (framycetin and dexamethasone

For all localized external infections such as necrotizing wounds, cysts or ulcers. Local application: 1 / d => 8/10 days In addition: permanent disinfectant bath during the first 3 days.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Itrafungol (itraconazole) 1% (10mg / ml)

To treat Chytridiomycosis at a rate of 3ml per 5L of water in an intensive bath of 10 minutes per day and for a period of 7 to 10 days.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

PANACUR ( fenbendazole 10%) : ANTI INTESTINAL WORMS effective anti-parasite treatment often associated with Flagyl. Oral use: 0.09 ml. (available only on prescription).

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

CAPIZOL: ANTI INTESTINAL WORMS 1 ml for 15 liters of water (dewormer)

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

Dolthene: ANTI HYDRES (to be used sparingly because many axolotls have more or less intolerance) : 2.5 ml / 10 liters of water for 3 days then water change of 50% then filtration on carbon then absolutely reseed with bacteria. The only ones that I recommend because used for many years and especially also used by large aquariums in France and zoos (Biockik of the Oase brand) (this product causes alopecia areata and anemia in some axolotls), renew the treatment 20 days later to kill the eggs. And therefore start the whole operation again. So not to be done lightly and certainly not as a preventive measure, we are not on the discus. Some axolotls moreover do not support this treatment.

Concernant l’utilisation de la bétadine sur les axolotl, il n’y a aucun problème. Cette toxicité est une légende. Il n’y a pas d’absorption suffisante du produit en application locale pour espérer une quelconque toxicité sur l’animal (au même titre qu’une quelconque efficacité systémique ou profonde).

La bétadine est vendue librement, pour usage sur muqueuses (intimes) , bébés, nourrissons…si l’iode pouvait représenter le moindre risque par absorption cutanée on ne l’utiliserait pas à grande échelle sur les humains. Les risques à retenir sont : l’irritation branchiale donc à ne pas appliquer sur les branchies, et donc également à ne pas réaliser en bain (mais au même titre que pour les poissons, d’eau douce ou de mer, sans aucun lien avec l’iode) et à ne pas faire avaler.

Je l’utilise régulièrement en désinfection cutanée des poissons et batraciens sans aucun problème, et une efficacité nettement plus élevée que les désinfectants liquides que l’on en peut pas laisser en contact plus de quelques secondes.

Le prix est de 25 euros auprès de https://www.facebook.com/veteauornement/

n'est pas soumis à ordonnance

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You will not find an answer on a Facebook group or a site facing a serious problem, act quickly!

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

For any major problem, consult a veterinarian!

Self-medication is dangerous, a trained professional is best able to treat your loulou. The drugs named are only for your veterinarian.

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