RESEARCH

Haut de page EGGS - HATCHING - BREEDING First of all ask yourself the right questions. Will I keep them all (one lay often means 100 to over 400 eggs)? Do I have room for axolotls which when they have grown will reach at least the size of 10 centimeters. Can I afford to feed them all? Do I have time? If I don't have nursery aquariums, I will have to keep them in a tank, change the water every day with water that has stood for at least 24 hours to remove all traces of chlorine. I will have to feed them twice a day. Hatch artemia nauplii, buy bloodworms, etc. Will I easily find adopters? More the colors are "basic" the easier it is to obtain them and therefore the more difficult it is to find adopters. Nathalie Chassagne The female can lay eggs in one or two days, it will be necessary to wait until she has finished this laying so as not to disturb her and not to have to repeat the "cleaning" a second time. 1st solution: You don't want to keep the eggs , so you can collect them all and put them in a small bag in the freezer from the start when they are still spherical and the nervous system is not developed (thus avoiding animal suffering). Leaving the eggs in the belief that the parents will eat the juveniles when they hatch is not effective. They will instead end up in the filtration system ... or starve in the aquarium. Some have had their pumps blocked by eggs, others unfortunately experienced a spike in nitrites because of the eggs. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. 2nd solution: You want to raise juveniles . Yes, but stay reasonable instead of keeping all the laying, already limit the number of eggs you want to keep 20 or 30 maximum. Choose a rectangular tupperware that is spacious enough, but not too large so that they can feed easily at first (about 25 to 30 cm X 15 cm). Put 3 cm of water in it at the start the following weeks when the kitties have grown up, you can increase the water height. You must change the water every day in order to prevent the eggs from rotting and to keep an important oxygen level for the developing juveniles in the egg, the oxygen exchange takes place through the protective membrane. You can either take water from your aquarium each day and compensate by adding the same amount (this allows for small changes each day) or you can use pipe water that has stood for at least 24 hours to dechlorinate it. This second solution is not necessarily the most suitable because, in addition to the chlorine, your pipe water may contain heavy metals or chloramine. Some limbs have lost full eggs this way. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Some people use a bubbler to speed up the hatching, of course this is not necessary. If you wait you will see the hatching within 10 to 15 days (usually 15 days) after the laying. on the 4th day we can already see the visible transformation of the egg, it becomes oval and is no longer perfectly spherical. it develops and lengthens over the following days then you will see the gills appear and the juvenile sometimes moving and giving accoups. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Learn to recognize an egg that is damaged or just doesn't grow. The "moldy" eggs will have to be removed so that they do not mold the neighbors. Eggs from a leucistic, wild or melanistic mother = black, gray or black and white. Eggs from an albino mother = always white Nathalie Chassagne Eggs from an albino mother = always white Nathalie C Ariane Gaspard Ariane Gaspard Ariane Gaspard Ariane Gaspard Ariane Gaspard Ariane Gaspard EVOLUTION ... Nathalie Chassagne They can be white or dark or even composed of these two colors depending on the color of the female (if it is an albino the eggs will be white. This does not mean that the juvenile contained in this egg will not change. not at all A copper mother will lay beige eggs (impossible to confuse with the dazzling whiteness of white or gold albino eggs). In the section on genetics you will be able to delve a little more into this subject. Your little ones have come out of their egg and are finally zigzagging in their tray ?? Very good ! Do not hesitate to isolate them as you go in another clean tank with fresh water to avoid any risk of yeast infection or that they get stuck in the other eggs which will not all hatch. (I use a bubbler pipe to gently take them). The juvenile who has just been born has, like many other species, a small yolk sac on its belly in which it will "draw" the nutrients it needs for 48 to 72 hours. This allows it in its natural habitat to find a safe place before providing for its needs. So when hatching you can launch your brine shrimp hatcheries (not to be confused with brine shrimp which is the adult stage and much too big for your small juveniles) refer to the section food for more information on how to do this. They are fed once or twice a day. Especially remember to rinse the nafplions well using the sieves provided for this purpose so that no salt remains. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Nathalie Chassagne Nathalie Chassagne Nathalie Chassagne Some people who cannot hatch nafplions or who have too many cysts (brine shells) in their sample have successfully turned to other alternatives: First week Frozen Cyclops rinsed well before distribution to juveniles. Microphones to In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Second week we can add: Live daphnia (Pulex for first days then Magna) Tubifex (smaller and thinner than bloodworms You will find information about this food in the food section as well. Around one month of your juvenile (when the front legs out), you can feed them at bloodworms frozen or alive, and brine shrimp and always well rinsed. Do it gently: over one or two days you continue to also offer them their first food (nauplia, micro worms, daphnia) so as not to lose a large part of your small axolotls, you must give them time to grow. get used to this change. You need a certain living space for your juveniles, they are particularly voracious being small because it is their instinct for survival. So in order to avoid "crunching" of legs, gills or tails separate them as much as possible and by equivalent sizes. The second change of diet for your little ones will be the switch from bloodworm to pellets. This can be done from the 5 cm of the juvenile or from the 10 cm but always leaving the first feed at the bottom. Because for some this passage is more difficult, indeed, the axolotls are sometimes choosy. However, do not forget that the bloodworm has little nutritional value unlike the pellets which contain everything necessary (see information on components and suppliers with the possibility of orders on the site). An axolotl that begins to feed on pellets grows much faster. It is considered that a young axolotl can be adopted from its 10 cm. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Nathalie Chassagne Nathalie Chassagne Nathalie Chassagne

La microfaune est présente quand l'équilibre de l'aquarium est bon. Mais que dire des nuisibles qui s'invitent dans celui ci? Et il y a t il des utiles? Haut de page micorfaune micorfaune HARMFUL Share Hydras : Their arrival in the ferry. In aquariums, hydras arrive in our tanks through stones, wood, plants and living food taken from nature. They can also be present in an already infected tank, hence the fact of being attentive when changing the arrangement of plants / decor. In our tanks are real predators who capture the small shrimp a few days old to make a festive feast. However, hydras are harmless to adult shrimp as well as fish larger than half a centimeter. How to avoid bringing hydras into your aquarium: • For decorations such as roots and rocks, nothing better than boiling them. A temperature above 40 degrees is fatal to them. • For plants, a bath in water saturated with CO2 (commercially available sparkling water) for about 12 hours will suffice to eradicate them. Exterminate them. If your bin is infested, I advise you not to use the previous solutions which would be fatal to the entire bin. Other solutions exist: - The use of salt: 0.4% for a week also destroys them but the plants generally do not appreciate this concentration too much. - The use of a predator: some fish are crazy about hydras such as: Trichogaster Trichopterus or Macropodus opercularis, or asolene, but in hot water not for our axos. - The use of oxfendazole: this treatment is safe for the shrimps and fish in our tanks but can affect some snails, zoe and aeglas less than a month old Oxfendazole is more than 93% effective on all major dog parasites including Dipylidium caninum and Trichuris vulpis. Its original galenic form (oral suspension to be mixed with food) and its high acceptance limit as much as possible the handling by the owner. The doltheme comes in 3 formats: DOLTHENE® 20 ml: contains 453 mg of oxfendazole DOLTHENE® 50 ml: contains 1132.5 mg oxfendazole DOLTHENE® 100 ml: contains 2265 mg of oxfendazole Treatment for the aquarium hobby. The ideal: 1 ml of Dolthene for 80 liter of water. As the eggs may remain, it is advisable to repeat the operation 4 weeks later. During the treatment no water change should be made. On the other hand after the two treatments a water change of 50% is strongly recommended. Then filtration on activated carbon, during 4 to 5 days (beyond that the carbon releases the substances absorbed so no longer any interest. NB: The data of the treatment are indicative. It worked for us, however neither the author nor the site can be held responsible for any problems. MICROFAUNA Planarians: They are small flatworms (unlike the leech) , of the Turbellaria class, generally scavengers, white-beige, pink, yellowish or light brown in color, which measure from 2 to 10 mm and move by crawling. Planarians move slowly over leaves and stones. They glide over the background, like slugs, unlike leeches which advance in spurts, like caterpillars. They are introduced at the same time as the plants and the decorations taken from nature and badly washed. To avoid planaria, before putting catappa or oak leaves in the tank, put them in the microwave for about 1 minute. Or before introducing new plants in a tank, let them soak for 48 hours, to avoid polluting your tank. The planar traps are not very effective (at least the homemade ones you can try the commercial ones here , indeed even if you manage to catch the adults, the eggs will remain in the aquarium while the dolthene kills the planarians. adults and eggs Dolthene is not lethal to snails, unlike no-planaria and Fluvermal. How do you get rid of planarians? Either by removing plants and axolotls, fish from your aquarium and raising the temperature to 34 degrees. Either by treating with Dolthene : treatment for one month, buy the one for dogs from 13 to 33kg, in pharmacies, day 1 - change 10 water, put dolthene in the aquarium at the rate of 0.5ml per 50l of water. Do not touch anything for 15 days. On the 15th day, change 10 water and start again with 0.5 ml of Dolthene for 50 l of water. and 15 days later (ie 30 days from the very start of the treatment: change the water and filter through charcoal to remove the last traces of the product. Fluvermal outside the axolotls ferry! A harmful aution for snails and can kill certain juvenile shrimp). Some axolotls support this treatment badly (use another molecule better tolerated such as Dolthene). Fluvermal is found in pharmacies without a prescription 1 tablet for 20 liters of water. Crush well then dilute in a little aquarium water before introducing the product. 4 days later, change 40% of water then filter 4 days on charcoal. Leeches are part of the same family as earthworms, (annelids). They are generally introduced into our aquariums via the introduction of plants, stones, etc. taken from the wild. When leeches are small they are difficult to spot in a piece of wood or on rocks. At their adult size they reach 4-5 cm. They attach themselves to the fish and bleed them. They lose weight, turn pale and die. The wounds appear as small round, red or white holes. (Some species also attack planorbes and small snails in the tank). Leeches are also vectors of bacterial diseases. To spot them you have to observe the aquarium during the night with a flashlight and remove any that you see. They have a particular, undulating stroke. Unlike the gliding planar, it moves like a caterpillar, lifting the middle of the body which comes off forming a loop that does not touch the wall. Most salt treatments, for example, only kill adults and not eggs. The eggs are oval, dark brown in color, and stuck in clusters at the base of plants or in the interstices of stones. The effective products are also toxic to fish. Be careful therefore during treatments that must be renewed after 3-4 weeks to kill the new generations. They are sensitive to levamisole , and die at doses of treatment for deworming discus (1ml of the 10% solution per 100l of water). Levamisole is a vermifuge for veterinary use, so you should consult this one to get it. Dragonfly larva: This larva is a predator that lives in ponds and feeds on tadpoles, tiny red worms and other larvae. They are quite large, measuring 3 to 6 cm, and have six legs. It remains as a larva for 1 to 3 years and moults to grow and change its envelope. She wears a mask formed by the lower lip and terminated by two hooks which allow to grip the preys. Catching it remains the only solution. it can be extremely fast ... Personally, I siphon them. Good luck. The dytic: The adult and the larva are formidable predators. The larva, a large carnivore, will first inject toxic and digestive saliva which liquefies its body, before sucking the contents of its victim with its powerful mandibles. The beetle larva is very voracious, it attacks other larvae, tadpoles and even newts. The Dytique hunts and kills prey that is often much larger than itself! It does not hesitate to attack tadpoles or newts, sometimes even fish such as sticklebacks or young perch or any fish in our aquarium. It attacks very close to the gills, where they are most fragile ! USEFUL Aselle ( Asellus aquaticus) is a species of crustacean (Malacostraca) that lives in fresh, low-current waters, devoid of pesticides provided they are rich in debris of organic matter (dead leaves in particular). As a bioindicator, it is not an indicator of water of as good quality as the gammara. In optimal condition for them, asellae can or could reach locally very dense populations. They are - along with gammaria and daphnia - an important source of food for various carnivorous aquatic organisms. Asaddles are increasingly known in aquarists for their effective role as detritivores. They are easily differentiated from the scallops because the asellae are more flattened and walk on the bottom, more than they swim, while the scallops often swim or move "sideways" and the body curled up in a rounded position (on the bottom or when they run away). Size: the aselle grows all its life, by successive moults and it lives 1 to 2 years: the adult measures 8 mm to 15 mm long (depending on the region, the subspecies). Asellae are very common in ponds, where they feed on decaying plants, or even on corpses that have fallen to the bottom. Indeed, the asellae are unable to consume the slightest living tissue. They are therefore precious, since they sort, on the same sheet for example, between the healthy part and the dead part, eating only what is needed and sparing the rest. Hence the idea of some aquarists to use the plates in the tanks where they kept the fish eggs. The aselles hastened to make disappear the unfertilized eggs, dead, reached by the mold, and thus protected the others, alive, of any contamination always to be feared. The live eggs were even cleaned regularly of any fragments of detritus that fell in contact with them. First of all because biodiversity is important and it is better to multiply species than to remove them ... but also because fish have an unfortunate tendency to like to devour asaddles! The adults sometimes manage, if the plantation is very dense, to survive. A little Java, Ceratophyllum or Najas moss, and you're done. But the small aselles are often used as lunch by the fish, who prefer them to their elders. Many pond enthusiasts have solved the problem by placing the asellae in a dedicated compartment of their filter, where they can perform their role of degrading detritus (dead leaves and others) while remaining safe from the appetite of the fish. . Of course, a few individuals escape and that's good. They will serve as living food and will sometimes even settle in the basin in discreet corners. Why not think about a similar use in aquarium keeping? Asellae intervene just before the ostracods in the waste degradation chain, thus preparing the work of the bacteria in the filter and in the tank. I think we should think about biological filtration systems that would include these critters, allowing them to live and multiply in the shelter. Asellae are not as prolific as other aquatic invertebrates. They only lay a few eggs (around 200 per clutch) at the last stage of their growth. But the little ones, carbon copies of adults, are armed to survive. Why not reserve part of the decanter for them, or better yet, a container for them alone? Grammares: The grammar measures approximately 15 mm. It is a freshwater shrimp. The head has 4 antennae and two faceted eyes. On the stomach, gills allow it to breathe. This crustacean feeds on dead plants and plankton. She lives in the shelter of the light under the stones or under the rubbish. Fish, and carnivorous insects love it.

Comprendre l'utilité et le rôle d'un poubellarium. Il peut étre source de nombreuses vies. Home Axolotls et Cie Axolotl Health Axolotls shop Forum Maintenance Plants, algae Tutorials, gifts, gallery Anurans & Urodeles Plus... The poubellarium Share The poubellarium is an outdoor bin prepared a little before the summer to put the fish in. Neither filtered nor heated, it allows your fish to regain a semi-wild state and saves you the chore of maintaining the aquarium for several weeks. All the information to create your poubellarium in this tip! Note: the use of the poubellarium is mainly intended for tropical fish. How the poubellarium works For an efficient poubellarium: It is necessary to have a large volume of water: at least 100 liters, at best 200 liters. No need to install a filter. To be sure that the water is regulated to a minimum, wait for the formation of algae and duckweed before introducing your fish. These will ingest part of the nitrates. Place your poubellarium so that it receives the sun from the east and south. Good to know: prefer a container that is wider than it is deep and avoid the inflatable pool which, although practical and inexpensive, risks bursting. Then it is all a question of timing: You must prepare the poubellarium at least 1.5 months before the introduction of the fish: this will give the necessary bacteria and algae time to develop. You can then install your poubellarium from the beginning of June until the end of August. Note: keep the container with water from one year to the next. Thus, the living food will be even more abundant: even if the larvae die in the winter, they regenerate in the spring thanks to the eggs. Benefits of a poubellarium: a vacation for you and your fish The poubellarium has many benefits for you and your fish. For you, this option is: economical: apart from the purchase of the container, you save for 1 to 2 months on all the usual expenses related to your aquarium; with regard to heating for example: the trash can heats up during the day and cools down at night, so no need to worry about it; autonomous: no need to take care of the maintenance of the aquarium; nor the meal of your fish: they will feed on bloodworms, mosquito larvae, daphnia and algae. For your fish, the advantages of the poubellarium are as follows: their colors will be more vivid after this semi return to the wild; your fish themselves are more lively; reproduction is thus favored without your having to deal with it. Note: if you have fry at the end of the holiday, you can only introduce them very gently into your aquarium, as they are very sensitive to temperature changes. What fish can you put in a poubellarium? While the poubellarium is a simple solution to getting your fish on vacation, not everyone can enjoy it. Indeed, it is mainly exotic fish that can tolerate this acclimatization. Concretely, you can introduce: All viviparous: guppy, platy or molly The cichlids of the great African lakes Pelvicahromis pulcher (Pelmato) The tanichtys albonubes (Chinese minnow or neon of the poor); bearded men, fighters, rasboras, etc. On the other hand, avoid: scalars, razor clams; red noses, penguin fish; Hypostomus plecostomus, nannostomus, etc. And the list is still long on both sides: ask at the pet store to find out if your fish can stay in a poubellarium. Good to know: temperatures that are too cool will be fatal to your fish: do not take them out before the temperature is stable (around 20-22 ° C).

Tout d'abord l'on considère qu'un individu ne devrait être vendu qu'à partir de ses10 cm, avant les risques de mortalité sont encore importants couleurs COLORS & PRICES Slideshow at the bottom of the page For colors see also article "Genetics" Depending on the colors, the size of the axolotl and its age, different prices are possible in sales between individuals, here is a brief summary, of course everyone is free to refer to it or not. First of all it is considered that an individual should be sold only from its 10 cm, before the risks of mortality are still important and the feeding stage must include an axolotl eating bloodworms and pellets or only pellets, (for greater ease of feeding and therefore success for the purchaser). Albino axolotl (white coat, red eyes, of course includes gold), leucistic axolotl (white coat and black eyes), wild axolotl (golden circle in the eye and spotted coat, colors may vary): € 1 per cm or a 10 cm axolotl will be sold for € 10. Why? Because these colors are the most common Melanic axolotl (black, gray, white dress but black and full eye without golden or glowing circle): 2 € per cm or 20 € for an individual of 10 cm. Axolotl copper (spotted with brown, beige, with absence of black pigments) € 2.50 per cm which gives us € 25 for an individual of 10 cm. Melanic cooper axolotl (light to dark brown coat, slightly spotted or not) and axanthic axolotl, 2.5 to 3 € per cm or 25 to 30 € for an individual of 10 cm. If it is an urgent adoption, do not be too "greedy", give your axolotl at a low price or even give it away, it is the least of things so that this little loulou quickly finds a welcoming home, and above all, find out about its future habitat and the knowledge of the purchaser. If necessary, explain to him the complete and detailed maintenance, the axolotl living many years be responsible! For the buyer: a thin axolotl, or with ugly stunted or atrophied gills is a sign that should alert you! Also watch her toes as they melt away as the back veil indicates potential infection. Always observe a period of quarantine which will give you time to observe your loulou's skin and its appearance. And finally check his stool to be sure that there are no parasites present. Here are now the colors of our loulous when they are very small, then larger this so that you learn to recognize them: In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Eyes according to axololts colors Wild colored axolotls Leucistic-colored axolotls juvénile leucistique NC axolotl juvenile leucistique Juvénile leucistique NC axolotl juvenile leucistique leucistique axolotl leucistique leucistique axolotl leucistique silver-eyes axolotls leucistiques aux yeux argentés leucistique blue gills les branchies sont sombres chez ce leucistique ce sont des blue gills 87123995_1531474483685220_83961407026222 axolotl leucistique leucistique axolotl leucistique leucistique axolotl leucistique Melanic colored axolotls axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin axolotl arlequin juveniles arlequin juveniles arlequin juveniles arlequin juveniles arlequin arlequin axolotl arlequin melanque gris Shin'Ichi melanique gris mélanique blanc axolotl melanique blanc jeune mélanique noir axolotl melanique noir mélanique blanc NC axolotl melanique blanc Shin'Ichi axolotl melanique noir mélanique blanc axolotl melanique blanc juvénile mélanique noir axolotl melanique noir juvéniles mélaniques gris axolotl melanique gris blue gills melanique blanc Caroline_Paquet axolotl blue gills melanique blanc axolotl melanique noir Caroline_Paquet axolotl melanique noir Copper-colored axolotls and melanic coppers Looky axolotl copper Loki NC axolotl copper mela-copper NC axolotl melanque copper copper axolotl copper COPPER n chassagne axolotl copper MELANIQUE COPPER Ryan Flipo axolotl melanique copper copper clair Cy Lyne copper clair Cy Lyne2 axolotl copper Mathieu Ryckbosch axolotl copper et axolotl melanique copper Godzi Copper axolotl copper Tao,_mon_male_copper clair axolotl copper clair Show More Axolotls mosaics mosaïque axolotl mosaïque chimère axolotl chimère Mosaïque axolotl mosaïque Yin Yang chimère mosaïque NC axolotl mosaïque mosaïque axolotl mosaïque mosaïque NC axolotl mosaïque Axanthic colored axolotls A ne pas confondre avec un mélanique tacheté, la robe est grise très claire. Et les tâches très nettes et bien détachées les unes des autres. axanthique axolotl axanthique zeus axolotl axanthique Lafayette axolotl axanthique AXANTHIQUE axolotl axanthique laffayette2 axolotl axanthique laffayette2 axolotl axanthique Colored axolotls white albino and golden (gold) albinos blanc NC axolotl albinos blanc albinos blanc NC axolotl albinos blanc gold NC axolotl gold GOLD (Albinos doré) axolotl gold Albinos blanc Elodie Lignac GOLD Caroline_Paquet GOLD(albinos doré) PackPat axolotl gold Albinos blanc Jeanbonch Lef‎ axolotl albinos blanc GOLD Pascal nao axolotl gold GOLD clair A9lie_Becka axolotl gold clair GOLDS Packy Pat axolotl gold Elodie Lignac Albinos blanc axolotl albinos blanc Show More ENIGMA There is a particular phenomenon concerning the color changes of certain axolotls ... GFP The "Green Fluorescent Protein" is a gene derived from the jellyfish which has been injected into certain axolotls in order to observe under ultra-violet light the regeneration of the limbs and / and organs. The descendants therefore have this molecule present in their DNA. Little present in France, it is however much more widespread in the Anglo-Saxon countries. Note that this "mutation" is prohibited in France.

Beaucoup de méthodes naturelles sont utilisées pour soigner nos amphibiens et aquatiques ALOE VERA and BLACK TEA Share Known to the Egyptians as the plant of immortality and Native Americans as the magic wand of the heavens, aloe vera offers a wide range of amazing healing properties - some of which you are sure to already know. You can even have your aloe vera at home for small emergencies like scrapes, cuts and burns, but did you know that aloe vera is not limited to topical use only and is actually even more beneficial? for your body when taken internally? Aloe vera contains over 200 biologically active constituents of natural origin including polysaccharides, vitamins, enzymes, amino acids and minerals that promote the absorption of nutrients. According to The Journal of Environmental Science and Health, aloe vera also has anti-bacterial, anti-viral, and anti-fungal properties that help the immune system cleanse the body of toxins and invading pathogens. But that's not all it has to offer. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Minerals Aloe vera has mineral salts such as calcium, magnesium, zinc, chromium, selenium, sodium, iron, potassium, copper, and manganese. These minerals work together to stimulate the metabolic pathways (rest assured copper is in trace amounts). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Laxative action Prevents fluid retention. Aloe vera contains important enzymes like amylase and lipase which aid digestion by breaking down fat and sugar molecules. One molecule in particular, bradykinase, helps reduce inflammation. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Vitamins Surprisingly, aloe vera is one of the few plants that contains vitamin B12, which is necessary for the production of red blood cells. This is great news for vegetarians and vegans in particular, who tend not to consume sufficient amounts of vitamin B12. Aloe vera is also a source of vitamins A, C, E, folic acid, choline, B1, B2, B3 (niacin) and B6. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Amino acids Aloe vera contains 20 of the 22 essential amino acids that are required by the human body. It also contains salicylic acid, which fights inflammation and bacteria. Anti fungal and anti stress virtues: protection of skin mucus. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. HOW TO PREPARE ALOE VERA FOR OUR AQUARIUM: After peeling the Aloe Vera leaf, the gel obtained is cut into small pieces in a hollow container, a little water is added to it to be able to pass through the blender more easily and obtain a liquid more convenient to use in aquarium keeping. It is filtered to keep a homogeneous liquid then it is stored in a bottle in the refrigerator; it can be kept for five days. A partial weekly water change of 10% is also recommended when using it. In the case of intestinal obstruction, dropsy, it can be mixed in the food . You can also leave a small piece of gel in the aquarium until it is completely dissolved. Be careful not to exceed certain doses! See below. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The active ingredients of Aloe vera It is at the heart of the leaf that the colorless and translucent gel is found, the plant's active raw material and the real hidden treasure of aloe. The composition of Aloe vera, like that of other medicinal plants, is very rich, more than 160 components recognized to date: amino acids, organic acids, anthraquinones, enzymes, lignins, minerals, polysaccharides, saponins, steroids, vitamins , tannins, vitamins, and even protein. Use 99.8% pure Aloe vera juice. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Aloe vera has phytotherapy virtues that interest us more particularly in aquariums. To know : anti stress, powerful bactericides, pain relievers, reconstituting the epidermis (in our case, the mucus so sensitive), In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. To note Aloe vera juice is found in all Herbalists (you can prepare your own juice as seen above). The price is more or less 15 euros per half liter at 99.8% (without the skin especially). Dilute it to about 45% and regularly pour 5 to 10 ml per 100 liters of water. Beware of counterfeit products. Indeed, there are different qualities of Aloe depending on whether the juice is taken from the leaf or not. Take branded products to get the desired result ... In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "Regarding colloidal silver, there is, in human medicine, evidence of ineffectiveness in some cases (does not prevent eye infections during surgery), and evidence of its toxicity. axolotls, we also have the risk of precipitation of minerals on the gills, with possible respiratory consequences. I would tend to avoid its use. " Sylvain Larrat So to be used with great moderation and not to trivialize. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. [Concerning Aloe Vera Doctor Sylvain Larrat recommends precautions because in case of overdose, burns have been observed in humans, and many products currently sold contain a low percentage of the plant.] In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "I have a particular interest in medicinal plants and poisonous plants. When you dig a little deeper into this area, you realize that plant sellers have no obligation to sell an effective product, nor do they need to. to demonstrate any efficacy. Among the information circulating on the internet, I am sometimes frightened to see that there is no sorting out of what can be dangerous. Some plants of traditional use (ransom against nosebleeds ) are also carcinogenic Readings on the topic of pyrrolizidine alkaloids are interesting. When I select a drug for an axolotl, my preference is for drugs that are safe for that species, or those that are not harmful to fish. " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Sylvain Larrat If you want to buy your ready-made preparation here is a verified brand, by contacting Marjolaine you will be able to benefit from discounts. classeaum@gmail.com Forever Living Products' manufacturing units are certified according to international quality standards: ISO14001 (Environmental Management: Reduction of Waste, Costs and Risks) ISO 9001 (Quality Management) OHSAS 18001 (Health and Safety of employees) For their purity, the products of the Forever Living Products Company were the first in the 1980s to have received the IASC (International Aloe Science Concil) Label. This organization ensures that the micronutrient content in Aloe Vera Pulp is identical to that of the mucilage in a fresh leaf. Here is the important information (certifications of international quality standards and label) Black tea Black tea is also used by our English and American colleagues because it is an excellent anti fungal (anti fungal infection) for our loulous and fish. It is necessary to leave a sachet to infuse in boiling water, for example in a cup, then to cool and dilute in 10 liters and to put the axolotl in this bath for 20 minutes.

L'axolotls comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut etre blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? INJURIES, WOUNDS Share In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Axolotls are easily injured, this can be caused by a decoration that is too sharp or one of its congeners! And yes they are raw, and being a little short-sighted, sometimes bite by mistake. Here is the procedure to follow in the event of an injury: First, it will be necessary to determine the severity of the injury in order to decide whether or not to put the axolotl in the infirmary tank. It is not always necessary to put your axolotl in a bin, this generates significant stress and can worsen a situation.If the wound bleeds little or not, it is small, there is no need to isolate it, but watch that none mycosis does not settle there. Regeneration will do the job. In nature we don't run after him with methylene blue . If you could not make a solution dip the tip of a knife in water then in the powder this will make a dose for the treatment of a wound (the water must be light blue) if it is for a anti-stress use use the tip of a toothpick. If possible, leave him quiet in his aquarium by turning off the light, it will relax him. On the other hand, if the wound seems deeper, conducive to infection, the axolotl should be isolated in a plastic tub with fresh water (which should be changed every day). If the wound becomes infected, it will be necessary to use methylene blue (see the Methylene blue sheet below). You should also know that a lower temperature will allow the injury to heal more quickly. Duration of treatment 3 to 4 days. QUANTITY : It is important not to abuse this product. Even in small quantities, it works. It is recommended, for a 1% solution, to add 1 drop per 1 liter. For a 5% solution, 2 drops per 10 liters. If the product is not in the form of a dropper, it is possible to use a syringe without a needle. One drop represents approximately 0.050 ml. The instructions for making your own solution as well as the dosages are detailed in the document at the bottom of the page. Important point: we use methylene blue only in the case of nitrite poisoning or a serious injury, a small injury does not require soaking the loulou in this drug which is not harmless. So please don't overdo it. You can also dab the wound with betadine or mercurochrome and then put your axolotl back in the water, this can also prevent it from getting yeast infections. Cat scratch injuries occur frequently, unfortunately, either because the person did not think about protecting the aquarium, or because he had to temporarily put his axolotl (s) in a tank; or even because his cats have always "been adorable and never in the past hurt axolotls or were even interested in them ... In short, all of these reasons are bad! We always protect from predators! Even if it is only for play and out of curiosity, cats can inflict very severe injuries on axolotls. You can already see the damage on human skin, then on the tender skin of amphibians, the cataclysm! The accident took place: In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. A veterinarian must intervene within a maximum of 2 to 3 hours, because the cat's hollow claws carry bacteria, so even a properly operated and sutured animal will not be guaranteed to survive and may succumb in the hours to come. an infection. Don't try anything yourself! It seems crazy to say it but some people would be inclined to sew the animal themselves! You are not a veterinarian and cannot claim to be a professional! We need a sterile space, sharp equipment, knowledge of sedation before offering a stable anesthesia to the amphibian. You have a list of veterinarians here , at worst yours can be assisted or advised by one of these specialists. You should prefer a quick euthanasia with cloves rather than let your loulou suffer if you cannot have him treated very quickly by a veterinarian, even if like most amphibians he cannot express his suffering and continues to swim, do not imagine not that this one is not existing! His nervous system is highly developed, the eventration is extremely painful or even unbearable. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Here is an axolotl adopted by Sigrid Isloor, it has a double dough, certainly due to poor regrowth. This also causes her a paralysis on the right side so she must do stimulation exercises with a glove, following the recommendations of the veterinarian. Twopatte Manon's axolotl presents wounds as well as a damaged cesspool, as if burnt. During the first consultation, the veterinarian, Dr Latre-Grüss Aurélie from the Vet Auvergne clinic noted the lesions and took a sample to send it to a laboratory also specialized in axolotls. She was not 100% sure to save him because he was well attacked, according to the results of the analysis and the antibiogram she gave the treatment. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Salt baths every other day and injection of antibiotics every day in the front forelegs, at the level of the biceps, one day one leg and the other day the other in order not to traumatize the flesh of the loulou. No sting in the lower limbs because this would cause disturbances and lesions of the nervous and internal system as specified by the veterinarian. Cream for skin wounds Syringe for feeding "force-feeding" since this axolotl was no longer eating at all. So either by crushing pellets and making a slightly liquid mixture to make him ingest. VET 'AUVERGNE clinic 48 Plains Street 63800 COURNON D'AUVERGNE Phone: 04.73.84.13.97 In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. https://www.vet-auvergne.fr/ SAUTS HORS DE L'EAU Cela peut arriver si vous n'avez pas prévu un débord assez important entre le niveau de l'eau et le haut de l'aquarium (minimum prévoyez 15 cm). Il est possible également que vous n'ayez pas protégé son bac infirmerie... quoi qu'il en soit il faut agir rapidement en le remettant dans un bac (avec une eau reposée ou de l'eau de son aquarium si il est rôdé et ne présente aucun souci), avec du bleu de méthylène ou argent colloïdal . L'axolotl peut être resté suffisamment longtemps hors de l'eau pour présenter des brûlures qui vont apparaître au fil des heures (d'où l'importance du bleu de méthylène, voire Témérol car sa peau séchée aura été perméable aux bactéries diverses. Avec de la chance votre axolotl sera sauvé, mais hélas il faut envisager que des lésions internes soient présentes. Dans ce cas, il décédera d'une hémorragie dans les 72 heures environ... Le voile bactérien est la protection de votre axolotl, il est plus épais chez certains individus mais ne faites pas de bains de sel pour le rendre moins épais, non seulement vous stimulerez sa production, mais de plus vous causez des "trous" dans la barrière protectrice de l'axolotl, le rendant vulnérable aux attaques de bactéries. Ce voile blanchâtre est plus facilement visible sur les individus sombres bien entendu.

L'axolotl boule, qu'est ? comment mieux comprendre? peut il cohabiter avec vos autres axolotls? Haut de page Axolotl boule Axolotl boule AXOLOTL BALL (DWARF) Share The ball axolotl has a much shorter body than its mates, the neck is almost the width of the head. Nathalie Louf Nathalie Louf The veil is curled because it has often continued to grow. He can very well live like this for many years. On the other hand, it is of course not recommended to make it reproduce, or at least to keep its offspring. But it is not necessarily a suffering animal as we sometimes read ... Many people maintain it not by fad, but because this loulou if he eats well is lively and tonic, lives peacefully , has no reason to be euthanized right? In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Nathalie Louf has had several that she maintains with her "grown-ups" without it ever being a problem. On the other hand, the "ball" or dwarf axolotl has a lower bone density compared to its congeners (observed via radiography at a veterinarian), therefore of greater fragility at this level. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. One should not become paranoid when a juvenile with the veil curled very small or the round container. In full growth, the veil often grows faster than the body of kitties. As for the well-rounded container, it is explained by wolverines who eat well. Nathalie Louf Nathalie Louf Texte de Pauline André pour raconter l'histoire de son axolotl boule Bonjour tout le monde. Je préfère préciser, certaines photos peuvent choquer. Je fais ce post afin de partager avec vous ma terrible expérience en espérant qu'il serve à faire comprendre qu'il ne faut pas faire n'importe quoi avec nos axolotls, de leur naissance jusqu'à leur dernier souffle. Merci à ceux et celles qui vont avoir le courage de tout lire. J'ai eu énormément de mal à écrire... Bien le bonjour tout le monde, moi c'est Cacahuète ! Comme vous pouvez le voir je suis un axolotl boule, enfin, j'étais... Je suis née quelques part chez un particulier, je ne sais pas où je ne m'en souviens pas. J'ai été adopté par une maman merveilleuse qui a craqué sur moi et qui, malheureusement, ne connaissait pas les axolotls boule, et l'horrible personne qui m'a fait naître n'a pas fait ce qu'il fallait (nous étions plusieurs). Comme vous êtes censés savoir, normalement, des énergumènes comme moi, nous ne sommes pas censés vivre car fragiles, handicapés et tout ce qui va bien... Mais bon, maintenant que ma maman m'a adopté, elle a pris grand soin de moi. Je n'ai jamais été malheureuse, j'ai vécu avec des copains et des copines, j'avais un grand bac pour mes compagnons et moi, nous étions très heureux ensemble. J'ai grandi et maman avait un doute sur mon genre (moi je savais que j'étais une femelle mais je n'ai rien dis, sinon ce n'est pas drôle). Et puis un jour, la vie n'épargne personne. Ma maman ne pouvait plus s'occuper de nous pour des raisons qui lui sont propres. Elle a mis une annonce sur un forum, et sur des groupes facebook. Une dame l'a contacté, elle avait flashé sur moi, et sur mon copain Bradley (un gigantesque axolotl Copper de 34cm ! Et vous comprenez d'où lui vient son nom... Maman a de l'humour!). Cette dame a mis un moment avant de se décider, elle avait de la place pour un, et finalement elle a décidé de nous prendre tous les deux ! J'allais changer de maison avec un copain ! Août 2023, notre nouvelle maman est venue nous chercher Bradley et moi, elle avait fait plus d'une heure et demie de route pour venir nous chercher. Je ne vais pas mentir, tous les deux, nous lui avons fait peur. Le voyage et la quarantaine nous ont vraiment perturbé, nous refusions de manger les granulés qu'elle nous donnait. Puis elle a fini par nous mettre ensemble dans un grand tupperware, et quelques jours après on a mangé ce qu'elle nous avait donné ! Une semaine après, nous avons fait le grand plongeon dans l'aquarium ! Beaucoup de changements, nous l'avons bien exploré. Nous sommes bien dans notre nouveau chez nous ! Mes deux mamans sont très souvent en contact, notre nouvelle maman nous prend en photo et les envoie à notre première maman. Nous vivons une très belle vie. Un an plus tard, ma maman décide de changer entièrement d'aquarium, plus grand, plus large, plus haut, plus spacieux quoi ! Un vrai paradis ! Nous avons mis du temps avant de visiter ce nouvel endroit (bah oui maman travaille, et dans les vignes en plus donc elle garde pour elle ses mains pourris de raisin et de produit ! BEURK!) Je m'y fais bien à la nouvelle maison, je suis un axolotl heureux ! Mais tout bascule rapidement, ma vie prends une tournure dramatique... Cela faisait plusieurs semaines que maman avait remarqué que je ne descendais plus, j'étais tout le temps dans les plantes flottantes, je descendais juste pour manger (quand j'arrivais à descendre), je n'arrivais plus à me servir de mes pattes arrières (déjà que je ne m'en servais que d'une à l'arrière...). Du coup maman m'a sorti de l'aquarium pour m'isoler et essayer de me remettre sur mes quatre pattes. J'ai réussi le soir-même ! Maman s'est très souvent réveillée dans la nuit, et son dernier réveil était à 3h30. A son réveil à 6h, je l'ai vu paniquée... Mais je n'y suis pour rien, je n'ai pas fais exprès... J'ai mal maman, terriblement mal... Je bouge et je gigote de douleur et mon eau est rouge sang, et j'ai peur... Elle est obligée d'attendre 9h l'ouverture du vétérinaire. On lui propose un rendez-vous à 11h, mais maman n'a pas de voiture ce jour-là, elle est au contrôle technique et elle a son neveu à aller chercher à l'école à midi, et sa mère e besoin de la voiture... La dame au téléphone est très compréhensive et lui donne rendez-vous pour 15h30. Je souffre toujours autant... Je la vois venir me voir très souvent, et parfois mon eau est plus rouge qu'avant. Nous arrivons chez le vétérinaire avec ma maman et ma grand-mère, je ne bouge plus beaucoup, je souffre beaucoup. Maman pense qu'elle va avoir à faire à son vétérinaire habituel, mais c'est une femme qui va s'occuper de moi. Cette dame, très gentille, n'a malheureusement pas toutes les compétences qu'il faut pour s'occuper de moi, c'est ma maman qui lui explique beaucoup de choses, comme quoi je n'ai aucune blessure externe visible, que le vilain matou amateur d'eau goût axolotl ne m'a rien fait, que je n'ai pas de blessure aux branchies ni dans la bouche et que c'est forcément interne. La gentille vétérinaire m'emmène et m'installe sur un drôle de truc. Ça fait beaucoup de bruit, je n'aime pas ça et je bouge (je m'excuse d'avoir été une patiente pénible pour le coup...). De ce que j'ai entendu, il n'y avait rien qui pouvait faire une occlusion et il n'y avait pas d’œuf (la dame ne devait pas savoir qu'il n'y avait pas de coquille sur mes œufs...), mais qu'elle n'arrivait pas à voir s'il y avait un épanchement ou une blessure interne. Elle a proposé à ma maman de me ramener chez nous avec des bains antibiotiques, mais maman a refusé... Non pas parce qu'elle ne voulait pas me soigner (sinon elle ne m'aurait pas emmené...) mais parce qu'elle voyait que je souffrais beaucoup... Mes pattes étaient le long de mon corps, ma queue repliée et je saignais encore... Maman a demandé à ce que la vétérinaire m'endorme... Elle ne pouvait pas supporter me voir souffrir autant... La vétérinaire m'a emmené dans une autre pièce, et je ne me rappelle plus... Je dormais... J'ai juste senti une aiguille me piquer sur le côté droit, et je me suis endormie... Pour toujours... Je sais que maman a demandé une autopsie pour comprendre... Et deux jours après, la gentille vétérinaire l'a appelé et lui a dit que je souffrais d'une hépatite nécrosante... en gros mon foie était en train de pourrir lentement... Elle avait raison maman, je souffrais... Et je ne la remercierai jamais assez d'avoir eu le courage de me dire au revoir. Je suis partie en paix, je ne souffre plus maintenant. J'étais malade parce que j'étais un axolotl boule. J'étais malade à cause d'une personne qui a voulu se faire de l'argent sur notre dos à mes frères et sœurs et moi-même, mais contrairement à des congénères normaux ou handicapés, j'ai eu une vie magnifique, et je remercie mes mamans de m'avoir aimé comme elles l'ont fait. Alors s'il vous plaît, ne faites pas n'importe quoi avec nous, en plus de nous faire souffrir, vous faites souffrir des humains comme mes mamans... Ayez conscience que même si nous sommes handicapés, ce n'est pas un handicap comme chez vous les humains, nous souffrons de notre handicap, et si vous nous aimez, nous les axolotls, alors faites en sorte que cela arrive moins... Et s'il vous plaît, si vous nous aimez autant que certains peuvent le dire, ayez le courage de nous dire au revoir quand plus rien n'est possible pour nous. Nous garder en vie parce que vous nous aimez n'est pas un acte d'amour, mais un acte égoïste... Vous le faites pour vos chiens, chats ou tout autres animaux, et nous méritons le même traitement qu'eux. Pauline André

Bactéries, résines anti nitrates, conditionneurs compatibles avec nos axololts Haut de page tests tests too many nitrates leaving the tap? + 20mg We read everything and its opposite on the internet, here are the precise references (brands and names) of proven products that are perfectly compatible and safe with our axolotls. Nitrates are known to be necessary, the ideal being 10 mg / liter. However, the mains water in some towns contains too much, in order to prevent algae from thriving too much or your parameters being unstable, there is a solution: anti-nitrate resins! Yes, it is possible with axololts, most resins have a mechanical action (ion exchange) so there is absolutely no risk for your kitties. However, there is no need to use them to avoid water changes or to space them out, this would destabilize all the parameters, falling ph, polluted and loaded water. And you need nitrates for your plants! here are some brands that you can buy with confidence: Share (Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site) Trop de silicates ? SO2 Les silicates ne sont pas dangereux pour les poissons, cependant, ils peuvent très vite ruiner l'aspect esthétique de l'aquarium. C'est pourquoi il est important de tester précisément l'eau de l'aquarium. Il suffira de mettre cette résine dans votre filtration. ADDING BACTERIA? The ideal is to let nature take its course, prowling is used for that. The two groups of bacteria necessary for the transformation of ammonia and ammonium (axolotl waste and food) become nitrites (No2) thanks to the nitrosomonas bacteria, these nitrites themselves become nitrates (No3) thanks to the nitrobacter bacteria. But an accident can happen, a treatment killing all or most of these nice bacteria, a pump breaking down, stopping it for too long (more than three hours, without the stirring of the filter media they die. unthoughtful purchase of axolotl (unfortunately too frequent). So yes, you can use bacteria in these specific cases: here are the ones recognized as effective, afterwards it is at your own risk, but a lot of perlinpinpin powder is sold ... or additive products can be added to it. We do not add bacteria when we have a peak of nitrites otherwise we increase this peak and we run into disaster! The bacteria must be added to well-rested and dechlorinated water, otherwise they will be killed and added for nothing. This is only for a start-up or following a treatment (otherwise another possibility: rinse the filter media of another aquarium well run for a long time and which has not undergone treatment). One more thing do not confuse bacteria and water conditioner ... (the conditioner is supposed to remove chlorine, lead etc from your tap water). Observe the recommended doses to avoid pollution. (Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site)

Grace à ce tutoriel vous pourrez vous aussi fabriquer votre filtration 100 % naturelle ! Design biological filtration Share "Hi 😊 Just to share our experience with you, at the very beginning (a few years ago) we had a filtration (block) but it was not our thing. For 3 years we have opted for natural filtration, we have glued a glass plate in a corner of the aquarium and put sand and gravel as well as plants. We just have a tiny tiny little pump that sends the water through the filtration at the bottom, and the water comes up, filtering through the gravel, then smaller gravel, and finally sand on the surface. This method completely crushes all residues such as feces, pellets ... and even eggs (we don't even bother to remove them all at once!) It has also been 3 years since we no longer have to make water changes or clean the filtration. The aquarium parameters have also been excellent for 3 years, we have never had a problem, a peak in nitrites, nitrates .... The axolotls are in excellent health, we have never had any worms or mycoses , no losses, no aggressiveness. In short, for us this filtration is a success, the water cascades from the top, which means that we also have no problem with stagnant water. We just wanted to show some that it's really easy to set up and it's really great to know that all the parameters remain excellent 3 years after the start of this method! Especially since we use very little floor space to leave them as much space as possible 😊 " Leave enough room for a PVC elbow laid flat on the bottom. Pebble or stone of at least 50 mm. Gravel 30/40 mm. Porous gravel 10/20 mm type Pozzolana . Unsifted Loire sand. Distance between the side and the plate between 20 and 25 mm. Thanks to Actinidia Citrus and Marmote Saigneur for this sharing, hoping that it will help people for a 100% organic filtration system for their tank. To switch from its classic filtration (with pump) to this one, it is necessary to rinse and wring out the filter media (brown juice) which contain the bacteria on the gravel and the sand. These bacteria will lodge in the pozzolana which will colonize quickly. And don't change the aquarium water of course

Certains se posent la question : puis je éléver mes axolotls en bassin extérieur ? Haut de page quelle filtration? quelle filtration? RAISE IN A BASIN ... GOOD OR BAD IDEA ? Share Some people practice more and more the breeding of axolotls in outdoor pools, admittedly this seems an ideal compromise at first glance, however ... In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. I questioned Doctor Sylvain Larrat * on this specific point * Exclusive NAC veterinarian, exotic animals, wild and aquatic fauna, asking him what his opinion was: "The lack of water temperature control, exposure to predators (herons, mink, etc.), increased exposure to all pathogens **, and possibly water quality problems (polluted rain, algae problem, oxygenation level). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The risk of introduction into the external environment is a definite problem, but it is not necessarily enough to change people's opinion " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. * Diplomat of the American College of Zoological Medicine Associate Professor, Faculty of Veterinary Medicine, University of Montreal B. Franklin Veterinary Clinic, Auray, Brittany, France. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. ** the risks of infestations the axolotls present in the pond by bacteria and fungi such as Chytridiomycosis or simply the transport of their eggs in our rivers, ponds, investing our fauna is not to be taken lightly. When we maintain species from another geographical region it is a responsibility, it is not serious to think that we can control everything like preventing any contact with the local fauna, it is utopian. Unfortunately, this has happened with so many species that are now considered invasive.

Bien différencier les escargots aquatiques est indipensable. il y a les planorbes, physes, anisius, patelles, limnées. Haut de page ampullaire ampullaire SNAILS Share Snails are indicators of water quality.If we observe a rapid rise in Planorbes and Melanoides tuberculata, it is because there is certainly water pollution or a sudden change in pH, a drop in hardness. Anisus Vortex Excellent algae fighter, never attacks healthy plants and eats dead leaves and dead fish. Has a very flat spiral shell. Anisus vortex is very small and dark brown in color reaching up to 1 cm. The limnea are freshwater snails, measuring up to 2 cm adults so be careful with axolotls go fishing and of course rinse well everything you incorporate in your aquarium (plants, stones, etc.). Like land snails, they breathe through the lungs and must regularly come to the surface to breathe. They mainly eat the microscopic algae and bacteria that proliferate on aquatic plants and walls. It also consumes algae or biofilms that form on the surface of stagnant eutrophic water. It consumes organic waste The limneas feed mainly on plants. They graze on aquatic plants with a raspy "tongue", but in aquariums there are usually other food sources. These animals are hermaphrodites, that is, they are both male and female. The Planorbe ensures the maintenance of the plants by eliminating the necrotic parts of the plants. She will never poke holes in a healthy plant. A significant development of the population indicates an excess of food. The Planorbe has a lung, so it must rise to the surface regularly to breathe. Planorbs are common freshwater snails in aquariums; they often arrive via aquatic plants and are therefore imported into the aquarium without the knowledge of the aquarist. These snails do not present a danger for the fish population, however, if the food ration distributed to the fish is important, the planorbes will know an excessive proliferation, they are then the sign and a bioindicator of pollution in the aquarium. The diet of these animals is mainly provided by algae, they consume green algae, diatoms, but also other microorganisms. They are described as detritivores. Many consider them a plague, a nightmare for aquarists: THE PHYSICS (much smaller than limnea) There are many aquarists who have chosen to put them in their tanks, they are found in almost all freshwater aquariums, most of the time they were introduced by buying a plant from a pet store. It is interesting to observe them, these snails have lungs and thus need to go to the surface of the water to breathe. They regularly lay small packages of transparent eggs on windows, plants, aquarium decorations, they are very prolific. Depending on the temperature, the juveniles hatch after two to three weeks. They do not present any danger for the inhabitants of our aquariums, even the smallest, they are a good barometer of the balance of our aquarium: in too many they indicate an excess of food, at the top of the aquarium, on the water line they indicate an increase in nitrites. (Article by Jérôme Muller) Ferrissia (common name, freshwater limpet) arrive with the plants. They are discreet because of their small size and do not present any nuisance in our bins, they look like the Chinese Hats of the seaside but in much smaller. The shell is almost translucent white and slightly conical. The body is rather in shades of gray. Although belonging to the pulmonate family, respiration is essentially cutaneous. So they don't necessarily need to come to the surface to breathe. Indicator of the absence of predation. Presence infrequent, often in young tanks. Given the small size of this species, despite browsing windows or leaves of plants, no utility. No nuisance in the aquarium. Let's say that these animals are part of the microfauna that arouses little interest in general in our freshwater tanks.

L'axolotls comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut etre blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? VARIOUS LICE In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Lice, which can take up residence in different aquatic areas, are parasitic crustaceans living in fresh water. There are several types of lice such as: argulus or carp louse, the livoneca, the lernaea (anchor worm). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Most of these external fish parasites are visible, you just need to identify them properly so as not to infest your aquarium. Like many parasites, they are often contagious and difficult to get rid of. Share To anchors In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. These worms are introduced into your aquarium via fish (or other infected axolotls), in short by living beings. They are actually crustaceans, so treatments for the worms will not work. It is only the females that parasitize the fish by feeding on their blood. Their head is anchored by a hook in the skin of their victim. Their eggs are assembled into a filament and float at the other end of the body. It is a very devastating louse, we can easily see it with the naked eye, because the lernaea measures up to 1 cm, it looks like a brown or white stick, it is also elongated in shape. This parasite has the advantage of not being transmitted from one fish to another, so there is no risk of contagion. However, it is imperative to deal with the subject. Unfortunately, the treatment is often ineffective (mainly on fish), as the parasites get hooked and the fish die from their injuries, even if the parasites are exterminated. However, it is possible to try to remove the parasites with tweezers on the axolotls and to heal the wound. Here is what a specialist veterinarian recommended to whom I asked the question, it will certainly help your own veterinarian: "If it is to treat axos then the ideal is to remove the visible worms manually because we only see the females (worms) and this helps to break the cycle. It is especially necessary to proceed outside their aquarium because the pulling can explode the pouch (saccule) of the eggs and help them to spread throughout the aquarium! a bath should be taken with Lufenuron "(product available from the veterinarian only) . In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Another protocol is to carry out a permanent salt bath (anchor worms do not like salt at all) and treat with Aradol JBL for a week (product available in pet stores and on the internet). (or if treatment in the aquarium because of the infestation, change 30% of the water after one week of this treatment (dosage on the bottle, can be bought in a pet store or on the internet), then proceed to 3 days of treatment at temerol (in infirmary baccalaureate this time). The first solution has proved its worth and has been sufficient. Avoid feeding the axolotls based on live food to avoid any contamination, some lice are transmitted by them. Thanks to Marie for these photos Argulus or carp lice This small parasite measures 5 mm in diameter, it is oval in shape and strongly flattened. It is equipped with two suction cups, it is fixed on the axolotl by its mouth. A proboscis allows it to suck body fluids from the axolotl or the fish it parasitizes. Carp lice pierce the skin of their host with a sting. A poison is then released and causes painful inflammation and swelling, this can also lead to paralysis in the axolotl or fish. The louse will suck the blood of the aquatic. Once mature, the argulus or carp louse leaves its host to lay 20 to 250 eggs. The eggs hatch after three weeks. They reproduce freely in water and the louse searches for another host to feed on. Symptoms The parasite is highly contagious from one axolotl (or fish) to another, however, it can be carried by live food collected from ponds. The infested aquatic is very agitated, fearful, it rubs on the decorations to get rid of the lice and swims at full speed. They are often weakened and can therefore contract other diseases. Red dots may appear at the parasite's fixings. To eradicate carp lice, it is imperative to use anti-parasitic agents. Place the infested axolotl in a quarantine bin for one day. To be sure of having killed the parasites, but also the eggs, do not forget to empty and disinfect the tanks or aquariums concerned.