RESEARCH

L'axolotl boule, qu'est ? comment mieux comprendre? peut il cohabiter avec vos autres axolotls? Haut de page Axolotl boule Axolotl boule AXOLOTL BALL (DWARF) Share The ball axolotl has a much shorter body than its mates, the neck is almost the width of the head. Nathalie Louf Nathalie Louf The veil is curled because it has often continued to grow. He can very well live like this for many years. On the other hand, it is of course not recommended to make it reproduce, or at least to keep its offspring. But it is not necessarily a suffering animal as we sometimes read ... Many people maintain it not by fad, but because this loulou if he eats well is lively and tonic, lives peacefully , has no reason to be euthanized right? In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Nathalie Louf has had several that she maintains with her "grown-ups" without it ever being a problem. On the other hand, the "ball" or dwarf axolotl has a lower bone density compared to its congeners (observed via radiography at a veterinarian), therefore of greater fragility at this level. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. One should not become paranoid when a juvenile with the veil curled very small or the round container. In full growth, the veil often grows faster than the body of kitties. As for the well-rounded container, it is explained by wolverines who eat well. Nathalie Louf Nathalie Louf Texte de Pauline André pour raconter l'histoire de son axolotl boule Bonjour tout le monde. Je préfère préciser, certaines photos peuvent choquer. Je fais ce post afin de partager avec vous ma terrible expérience en espérant qu'il serve à faire comprendre qu'il ne faut pas faire n'importe quoi avec nos axolotls, de leur naissance jusqu'à leur dernier souffle. Merci à ceux et celles qui vont avoir le courage de tout lire. J'ai eu énormément de mal à écrire... Bien le bonjour tout le monde, moi c'est Cacahuète ! Comme vous pouvez le voir je suis un axolotl boule, enfin, j'étais... Je suis née quelques part chez un particulier, je ne sais pas où je ne m'en souviens pas. J'ai été adopté par une maman merveilleuse qui a craqué sur moi et qui, malheureusement, ne connaissait pas les axolotls boule, et l'horrible personne qui m'a fait naître n'a pas fait ce qu'il fallait (nous étions plusieurs). Comme vous êtes censés savoir, normalement, des énergumènes comme moi, nous ne sommes pas censés vivre car fragiles, handicapés et tout ce qui va bien... Mais bon, maintenant que ma maman m'a adopté, elle a pris grand soin de moi. Je n'ai jamais été malheureuse, j'ai vécu avec des copains et des copines, j'avais un grand bac pour mes compagnons et moi, nous étions très heureux ensemble. J'ai grandi et maman avait un doute sur mon genre (moi je savais que j'étais une femelle mais je n'ai rien dis, sinon ce n'est pas drôle). Et puis un jour, la vie n'épargne personne. Ma maman ne pouvait plus s'occuper de nous pour des raisons qui lui sont propres. Elle a mis une annonce sur un forum, et sur des groupes facebook. Une dame l'a contacté, elle avait flashé sur moi, et sur mon copain Bradley (un gigantesque axolotl Copper de 34cm ! Et vous comprenez d'où lui vient son nom... Maman a de l'humour!). Cette dame a mis un moment avant de se décider, elle avait de la place pour un, et finalement elle a décidé de nous prendre tous les deux ! J'allais changer de maison avec un copain ! Août 2023, notre nouvelle maman est venue nous chercher Bradley et moi, elle avait fait plus d'une heure et demie de route pour venir nous chercher. Je ne vais pas mentir, tous les deux, nous lui avons fait peur. Le voyage et la quarantaine nous ont vraiment perturbé, nous refusions de manger les granulés qu'elle nous donnait. Puis elle a fini par nous mettre ensemble dans un grand tupperware, et quelques jours après on a mangé ce qu'elle nous avait donné ! Une semaine après, nous avons fait le grand plongeon dans l'aquarium ! Beaucoup de changements, nous l'avons bien exploré. Nous sommes bien dans notre nouveau chez nous ! Mes deux mamans sont très souvent en contact, notre nouvelle maman nous prend en photo et les envoie à notre première maman. Nous vivons une très belle vie. Un an plus tard, ma maman décide de changer entièrement d'aquarium, plus grand, plus large, plus haut, plus spacieux quoi ! Un vrai paradis ! Nous avons mis du temps avant de visiter ce nouvel endroit (bah oui maman travaille, et dans les vignes en plus donc elle garde pour elle ses mains pourris de raisin et de produit ! BEURK!) Je m'y fais bien à la nouvelle maison, je suis un axolotl heureux ! Mais tout bascule rapidement, ma vie prends une tournure dramatique... Cela faisait plusieurs semaines que maman avait remarqué que je ne descendais plus, j'étais tout le temps dans les plantes flottantes, je descendais juste pour manger (quand j'arrivais à descendre), je n'arrivais plus à me servir de mes pattes arrières (déjà que je ne m'en servais que d'une à l'arrière...). Du coup maman m'a sorti de l'aquarium pour m'isoler et essayer de me remettre sur mes quatre pattes. J'ai réussi le soir-même ! Maman s'est très souvent réveillée dans la nuit, et son dernier réveil était à 3h30. A son réveil à 6h, je l'ai vu paniquée... Mais je n'y suis pour rien, je n'ai pas fais exprès... J'ai mal maman, terriblement mal... Je bouge et je gigote de douleur et mon eau est rouge sang, et j'ai peur... Elle est obligée d'attendre 9h l'ouverture du vétérinaire. On lui propose un rendez-vous à 11h, mais maman n'a pas de voiture ce jour-là, elle est au contrôle technique et elle a son neveu à aller chercher à l'école à midi, et sa mère e besoin de la voiture... La dame au téléphone est très compréhensive et lui donne rendez-vous pour 15h30. Je souffre toujours autant... Je la vois venir me voir très souvent, et parfois mon eau est plus rouge qu'avant. Nous arrivons chez le vétérinaire avec ma maman et ma grand-mère, je ne bouge plus beaucoup, je souffre beaucoup. Maman pense qu'elle va avoir à faire à son vétérinaire habituel, mais c'est une femme qui va s'occuper de moi. Cette dame, très gentille, n'a malheureusement pas toutes les compétences qu'il faut pour s'occuper de moi, c'est ma maman qui lui explique beaucoup de choses, comme quoi je n'ai aucune blessure externe visible, que le vilain matou amateur d'eau goût axolotl ne m'a rien fait, que je n'ai pas de blessure aux branchies ni dans la bouche et que c'est forcément interne. La gentille vétérinaire m'emmène et m'installe sur un drôle de truc. Ça fait beaucoup de bruit, je n'aime pas ça et je bouge (je m'excuse d'avoir été une patiente pénible pour le coup...). De ce que j'ai entendu, il n'y avait rien qui pouvait faire une occlusion et il n'y avait pas d’œuf (la dame ne devait pas savoir qu'il n'y avait pas de coquille sur mes œufs...), mais qu'elle n'arrivait pas à voir s'il y avait un épanchement ou une blessure interne. Elle a proposé à ma maman de me ramener chez nous avec des bains antibiotiques, mais maman a refusé... Non pas parce qu'elle ne voulait pas me soigner (sinon elle ne m'aurait pas emmené...) mais parce qu'elle voyait que je souffrais beaucoup... Mes pattes étaient le long de mon corps, ma queue repliée et je saignais encore... Maman a demandé à ce que la vétérinaire m'endorme... Elle ne pouvait pas supporter me voir souffrir autant... La vétérinaire m'a emmené dans une autre pièce, et je ne me rappelle plus... Je dormais... J'ai juste senti une aiguille me piquer sur le côté droit, et je me suis endormie... Pour toujours... Je sais que maman a demandé une autopsie pour comprendre... Et deux jours après, la gentille vétérinaire l'a appelé et lui a dit que je souffrais d'une hépatite nécrosante... en gros mon foie était en train de pourrir lentement... Elle avait raison maman, je souffrais... Et je ne la remercierai jamais assez d'avoir eu le courage de me dire au revoir. Je suis partie en paix, je ne souffre plus maintenant. J'étais malade parce que j'étais un axolotl boule. J'étais malade à cause d'une personne qui a voulu se faire de l'argent sur notre dos à mes frères et sœurs et moi-même, mais contrairement à des congénères normaux ou handicapés, j'ai eu une vie magnifique, et je remercie mes mamans de m'avoir aimé comme elles l'ont fait. Alors s'il vous plaît, ne faites pas n'importe quoi avec nous, en plus de nous faire souffrir, vous faites souffrir des humains comme mes mamans... Ayez conscience que même si nous sommes handicapés, ce n'est pas un handicap comme chez vous les humains, nous souffrons de notre handicap, et si vous nous aimez, nous les axolotls, alors faites en sorte que cela arrive moins... Et s'il vous plaît, si vous nous aimez autant que certains peuvent le dire, ayez le courage de nous dire au revoir quand plus rien n'est possible pour nous. Nous garder en vie parce que vous nous aimez n'est pas un acte d'amour, mais un acte égoïste... Vous le faites pour vos chiens, chats ou tout autres animaux, et nous méritons le même traitement qu'eux. Pauline André

Bactéries, résines anti nitrates, conditionneurs compatibles avec nos axololts Haut de page tests tests too many nitrates leaving the tap? + 20mg We read everything and its opposite on the internet, here are the precise references (brands and names) of proven products that are perfectly compatible and safe with our axolotls. Nitrates are known to be necessary, the ideal being 10 mg / liter. However, the mains water in some towns contains too much, in order to prevent algae from thriving too much or your parameters being unstable, there is a solution: anti-nitrate resins! Yes, it is possible with axololts, most resins have a mechanical action (ion exchange) so there is absolutely no risk for your kitties. However, there is no need to use them to avoid water changes or to space them out, this would destabilize all the parameters, falling ph, polluted and loaded water. And you need nitrates for your plants! here are some brands that you can buy with confidence: Share (Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site) Trop de silicates ? SO2 Les silicates ne sont pas dangereux pour les poissons, cependant, ils peuvent très vite ruiner l'aspect esthétique de l'aquarium. C'est pourquoi il est important de tester précisément l'eau de l'aquarium. Il suffira de mettre cette résine dans votre filtration. ADDING BACTERIA? The ideal is to let nature take its course, prowling is used for that. The two groups of bacteria necessary for the transformation of ammonia and ammonium (axolotl waste and food) become nitrites (No2) thanks to the nitrosomonas bacteria, these nitrites themselves become nitrates (No3) thanks to the nitrobacter bacteria. But an accident can happen, a treatment killing all or most of these nice bacteria, a pump breaking down, stopping it for too long (more than three hours, without the stirring of the filter media they die. unthoughtful purchase of axolotl (unfortunately too frequent). So yes, you can use bacteria in these specific cases: here are the ones recognized as effective, afterwards it is at your own risk, but a lot of perlinpinpin powder is sold ... or additive products can be added to it. We do not add bacteria when we have a peak of nitrites otherwise we increase this peak and we run into disaster! The bacteria must be added to well-rested and dechlorinated water, otherwise they will be killed and added for nothing. This is only for a start-up or following a treatment (otherwise another possibility: rinse the filter media of another aquarium well run for a long time and which has not undergone treatment). One more thing do not confuse bacteria and water conditioner ... (the conditioner is supposed to remove chlorine, lead etc from your tap water). Observe the recommended doses to avoid pollution. (Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site)

Grace à ce tutoriel vous pourrez vous aussi fabriquer votre filtration 100 % naturelle ! Design biological filtration Share "Hi 😊 Just to share our experience with you, at the very beginning (a few years ago) we had a filtration (block) but it was not our thing. For 3 years we have opted for natural filtration, we have glued a glass plate in a corner of the aquarium and put sand and gravel as well as plants. We just have a tiny tiny little pump that sends the water through the filtration at the bottom, and the water comes up, filtering through the gravel, then smaller gravel, and finally sand on the surface. This method completely crushes all residues such as feces, pellets ... and even eggs (we don't even bother to remove them all at once!) It has also been 3 years since we no longer have to make water changes or clean the filtration. The aquarium parameters have also been excellent for 3 years, we have never had a problem, a peak in nitrites, nitrates .... The axolotls are in excellent health, we have never had any worms or mycoses , no losses, no aggressiveness. In short, for us this filtration is a success, the water cascades from the top, which means that we also have no problem with stagnant water. We just wanted to show some that it's really easy to set up and it's really great to know that all the parameters remain excellent 3 years after the start of this method! Especially since we use very little floor space to leave them as much space as possible 😊 " Leave enough room for a PVC elbow laid flat on the bottom. Pebble or stone of at least 50 mm. Gravel 30/40 mm. Porous gravel 10/20 mm type Pozzolana . Unsifted Loire sand. Distance between the side and the plate between 20 and 25 mm. Thanks to Actinidia Citrus and Marmote Saigneur for this sharing, hoping that it will help people for a 100% organic filtration system for their tank. To switch from its classic filtration (with pump) to this one, it is necessary to rinse and wring out the filter media (brown juice) which contain the bacteria on the gravel and the sand. These bacteria will lodge in the pozzolana which will colonize quickly. And don't change the aquarium water of course

Certains se posent la question : puis je éléver mes axolotls en bassin extérieur ? Haut de page quelle filtration? quelle filtration? RAISE IN A BASIN ... GOOD OR BAD IDEA ? Share Some people practice more and more the breeding of axolotls in outdoor pools, admittedly this seems an ideal compromise at first glance, however ... In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. I questioned Doctor Sylvain Larrat * on this specific point * Exclusive NAC veterinarian, exotic animals, wild and aquatic fauna, asking him what his opinion was: "The lack of water temperature control, exposure to predators (herons, mink, etc.), increased exposure to all pathogens **, and possibly water quality problems (polluted rain, algae problem, oxygenation level). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The risk of introduction into the external environment is a definite problem, but it is not necessarily enough to change people's opinion " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. * Diplomat of the American College of Zoological Medicine Associate Professor, Faculty of Veterinary Medicine, University of Montreal B. Franklin Veterinary Clinic, Auray, Brittany, France. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. ** the risks of infestations the axolotls present in the pond by bacteria and fungi such as Chytridiomycosis or simply the transport of their eggs in our rivers, ponds, investing our fauna is not to be taken lightly. When we maintain species from another geographical region it is a responsibility, it is not serious to think that we can control everything like preventing any contact with the local fauna, it is utopian. Unfortunately, this has happened with so many species that are now considered invasive.

Bien différencier les escargots aquatiques est indipensable. il y a les planorbes, physes, anisius, patelles, limnées. Haut de page ampullaire ampullaire SNAILS Share Snails are indicators of water quality.If we observe a rapid rise in Planorbes and Melanoides tuberculata, it is because there is certainly water pollution or a sudden change in pH, a drop in hardness. Anisus Vortex Excellent algae fighter, never attacks healthy plants and eats dead leaves and dead fish. Has a very flat spiral shell. Anisus vortex is very small and dark brown in color reaching up to 1 cm. The limnea are freshwater snails, measuring up to 2 cm adults so be careful with axolotls go fishing and of course rinse well everything you incorporate in your aquarium (plants, stones, etc.). Like land snails, they breathe through the lungs and must regularly come to the surface to breathe. They mainly eat the microscopic algae and bacteria that proliferate on aquatic plants and walls. It also consumes algae or biofilms that form on the surface of stagnant eutrophic water. It consumes organic waste The limneas feed mainly on plants. They graze on aquatic plants with a raspy "tongue", but in aquariums there are usually other food sources. These animals are hermaphrodites, that is, they are both male and female. The Planorbe ensures the maintenance of the plants by eliminating the necrotic parts of the plants. She will never poke holes in a healthy plant. A significant development of the population indicates an excess of food. The Planorbe has a lung, so it must rise to the surface regularly to breathe. Planorbs are common freshwater snails in aquariums; they often arrive via aquatic plants and are therefore imported into the aquarium without the knowledge of the aquarist. These snails do not present a danger for the fish population, however, if the food ration distributed to the fish is important, the planorbes will know an excessive proliferation, they are then the sign and a bioindicator of pollution in the aquarium. The diet of these animals is mainly provided by algae, they consume green algae, diatoms, but also other microorganisms. They are described as detritivores. Many consider them a plague, a nightmare for aquarists: THE PHYSICS (much smaller than limnea) There are many aquarists who have chosen to put them in their tanks, they are found in almost all freshwater aquariums, most of the time they were introduced by buying a plant from a pet store. It is interesting to observe them, these snails have lungs and thus need to go to the surface of the water to breathe. They regularly lay small packages of transparent eggs on windows, plants, aquarium decorations, they are very prolific. Depending on the temperature, the juveniles hatch after two to three weeks. They do not present any danger for the inhabitants of our aquariums, even the smallest, they are a good barometer of the balance of our aquarium: in too many they indicate an excess of food, at the top of the aquarium, on the water line they indicate an increase in nitrites. (Article by Jérôme Muller) Ferrissia (common name, freshwater limpet) arrive with the plants. They are discreet because of their small size and do not present any nuisance in our bins, they look like the Chinese Hats of the seaside but in much smaller. The shell is almost translucent white and slightly conical. The body is rather in shades of gray. Although belonging to the pulmonate family, respiration is essentially cutaneous. So they don't necessarily need to come to the surface to breathe. Indicator of the absence of predation. Presence infrequent, often in young tanks. Given the small size of this species, despite browsing windows or leaves of plants, no utility. No nuisance in the aquarium. Let's say that these animals are part of the microfauna that arouses little interest in general in our freshwater tanks.

L'axolotls comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut etre blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? VARIOUS LICE In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Lice, which can take up residence in different aquatic areas, are parasitic crustaceans living in fresh water. There are several types of lice such as: argulus or carp louse, the livoneca, the lernaea (anchor worm). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Most of these external fish parasites are visible, you just need to identify them properly so as not to infest your aquarium. Like many parasites, they are often contagious and difficult to get rid of. Share To anchors In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. These worms are introduced into your aquarium via fish (or other infected axolotls), in short by living beings. They are actually crustaceans, so treatments for the worms will not work. It is only the females that parasitize the fish by feeding on their blood. Their head is anchored by a hook in the skin of their victim. Their eggs are assembled into a filament and float at the other end of the body. It is a very devastating louse, we can easily see it with the naked eye, because the lernaea measures up to 1 cm, it looks like a brown or white stick, it is also elongated in shape. This parasite has the advantage of not being transmitted from one fish to another, so there is no risk of contagion. However, it is imperative to deal with the subject. Unfortunately, the treatment is often ineffective (mainly on fish), as the parasites get hooked and the fish die from their injuries, even if the parasites are exterminated. However, it is possible to try to remove the parasites with tweezers on the axolotls and to heal the wound. Here is what a specialist veterinarian recommended to whom I asked the question, it will certainly help your own veterinarian: "If it is to treat axos then the ideal is to remove the visible worms manually because we only see the females (worms) and this helps to break the cycle. It is especially necessary to proceed outside their aquarium because the pulling can explode the pouch (saccule) of the eggs and help them to spread throughout the aquarium! a bath should be taken with Lufenuron "(product available from the veterinarian only) . In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Another protocol is to carry out a permanent salt bath (anchor worms do not like salt at all) and treat with Aradol JBL for a week (product available in pet stores and on the internet). (or if treatment in the aquarium because of the infestation, change 30% of the water after one week of this treatment (dosage on the bottle, can be bought in a pet store or on the internet), then proceed to 3 days of treatment at temerol (in infirmary baccalaureate this time). The first solution has proved its worth and has been sufficient. Avoid feeding the axolotls based on live food to avoid any contamination, some lice are transmitted by them. Thanks to Marie for these photos Argulus or carp lice This small parasite measures 5 mm in diameter, it is oval in shape and strongly flattened. It is equipped with two suction cups, it is fixed on the axolotl by its mouth. A proboscis allows it to suck body fluids from the axolotl or the fish it parasitizes. Carp lice pierce the skin of their host with a sting. A poison is then released and causes painful inflammation and swelling, this can also lead to paralysis in the axolotl or fish. The louse will suck the blood of the aquatic. Once mature, the argulus or carp louse leaves its host to lay 20 to 250 eggs. The eggs hatch after three weeks. They reproduce freely in water and the louse searches for another host to feed on. Symptoms The parasite is highly contagious from one axolotl (or fish) to another, however, it can be carried by live food collected from ponds. The infested aquatic is very agitated, fearful, it rubs on the decorations to get rid of the lice and swims at full speed. They are often weakened and can therefore contract other diseases. Red dots may appear at the parasite's fixings. To eradicate carp lice, it is imperative to use anti-parasitic agents. Place the infested axolotl in a quarantine bin for one day. To be sure of having killed the parasites, but also the eggs, do not forget to empty and disinfect the tanks or aquariums concerned.

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Puisqu’il passe sa vie dans l’eau, l’axolotl doit être maintenu dans un aquarium (et non un vivarium !). Il lui faut également un minimum d'espace, bannissez les petits aquariums, pensez à son bien-être. AXOLOTL IN SUMMARY Complete document to << download here Classification: Kingdom: animalia Branch: chordata Class: amphibia Order: caudata Family: ambystomatidae Genus: Ambystoma Species: mexicanum Status it is a non-domestic species, not subject to the certificate of capacity, listed in appendix II of CITES. This species has been on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species since 2008 and some scientists believe that it could disappear in the next few years. Note that the albino variety (therefore white skin and red eyes) is considered in France as a domestic species (it is only based on the color of the animal, so on the same laying, only albino individuals do not need transfer certificate, other colors, if). Geographic origin Ambystoma mexicanum is native to Mexico, more precisely to two lakes, called Xochimilco and Chalco. Unfortunately, with the expansion of cities and the increase of the population, it seems that these lakes are more and more reduced, and are reduced to a few canals. Attempts have been made to reproduce and reintroduce the species in its natural environment but its habitat is shrinking, its near end seems inevitable, and the numbers are more numerous today in captivity than in the wild. Manners It is a rather nocturnal animal, at least crepuscular and totally aquatic throughout its life. He walks at the bottom of the water more than he swims, so it is necessary to favor the surface on the ground with the height of water. In its natural environment, it lives in lakes of calm (no current) and cold water (the water rarely exceeds 20 ° C and can drop to 6 ° C, or even less). Description The axolotl is a neotenic salamander, that is to say that it remains all its life in the larval state, retains its gills and therefore never comes out of the water. The gills are external and there are 3 on each side of the head. At birth, it measures about 8 mm, reaching an average of 25/30 cm in adulthood, knowing that some reach 40cm. It is a nocturnal animal and not very moving in general. Exclusively aquatic, it combines three types of breathing: through the skin, through the gills, and through rudimentary lungs (which explains why it regularly rises to the surface to inhale air). The first peculiarity of axolotls is neotenia. This means that this salamander retains its juvenile characteristics (outer gills, caudal veil, webbed fingers and absence of eyelids) at its adult size. More importantly, it can reproduce in this larval state once it reaches adult size. Only one other species of the genus also has this ability, it is Ambystoma andersoni, which is much more active, was born and feeds in a less protein way. and should not be hybridized with ambystoma mexicanum to avoid loss of the species. This neotenia is due to the development of an atrophied thyroid gland and therefore to the absence of a hormone interacting with growth hormones, thyroxine. The first hypothesis concerning the atrophy of this gland wants that the cold temperatures of their environment of origin disadvantage the more fragile terrestrial form. Because axolotl can under certain conditions (increase in temperature, decrease in water level, and above all external contribution of thyroxine) override neotenia and transform to reach an adult stage of life on earth. It then loses its juvenile characteristics and develops lungs and eyelids to physically approximate the rest of the species of its genus. Its biology also changes dramatically, because even if it now lives in wetlands, it becomes strictly terrestrial, see burrower. It was also long believed that Ambystoma tigrinum was the adult form of Ambystoma mexicanum. It has very visible costal furrows in adulthood, kinds of hollows, along the sides. It has 4 toes on the front legs and 5 on the back legs. Its natural color is more or less dark brown. In captivity, different colors are obtained including albino (white skin, red eyes), depigmented (white skin, black eyes), golden (more or less golden skin, red eyes), and other colors such as piebald (harlequin), the copper color created in the USA and imported into Europe which, on the other hand, comes from a single strain, we isolated on one side the strong and larger individuals and on the other the weaker and smaller (the latter more prone to various diseases). New colors appear little by little. And also more and more mosaics, which seems logical given the increasing number of individuals in our aquariums. Its average lifespan is 15 to 20 years. Particularities of the species As already discussed, this species is neotenic, it has gradually lost the ability to pass from the larval state to the terrestrial state, since it no longer has the utility in nature. Other species such as Ambystoma tigrinum can also be neotenic on occasion, when outside conditions do not allow them to come out of the water, but most of them are not. In axolotl, a lack of iodine produced by the thyroid means that the animal is very rarely able to pass to the terrestrial phase. Stimulation of the thyroid by injection of iodine or thyroxine (thyroid hormone) can artificially cause the transformation. In this earthly form, it survives on average only 3 to 5 years (when it does not succumb to this metamorphosis). Its second characteristic, for which it has been studied extensively in the laboratory, is its great capacity for regeneration. Indeed, in the event of loss of a limb, this one pushes back in a few weeks, whatever the age of the animal (even if it seems that it is faster in a young individual). This regrowth has also been observed in scientific studies of the tail, gills, lips, and even parts of the brain and spine. This is why this species is much studied in order to understand this regenerative capacity with the aim of applying it to human medicine. Maintenance Since it spends its life in water, the axolotl must be kept in an aquarium (and not a vivarium!). For a couple, a 160 liter aquarium is suitable but this is a minimum, it is better to have more space for our kitties than less. The axolotl is relatively territorial and the aquarium will therefore have to be large enough if you want to have several individuals live together without there being "small disputes". It is a bottom animal, the ground surface of the aquarium is therefore more important than the height of the water (which must nevertheless be at least the length of the body of the animal as well as 10 to 15 cm of margin for the jumping axos). The aquarium must contain real plants (waterweed, vallisnerias, microsorum, anubia, etc. you can consult a list of these plants in the maintenance section) (Note that the axolotl can also play bulldozers and uproot plants), hiding places to his size (at least one per individual), a substrate (fine sand) and a thermometer to monitor the temperature of the water. Filtration is important because axolotl produces a lot of waste. However, it is an animal of stagnant water originally, this is no longer the case but it does not like excessive currents, and too powerful a filter will produce it and may stress the animal to the point of it. cause long-term illness. The filter jet must therefore be "broken". The plants will help keep the water clean by partially filtering the waste produced. The water used can be that from the tap, which has been left to stand for 24 to 48 hours to allow the evaporation of the chlorine (which destroys the good bacteria in the aquarium). You can also use rainwater, collected for example in a plastic container (if it is too soft KH too low place a limestone there). Avoid water that has leaked into zinc gutters as water can be made toxic by this metal. As with any aquarium setup, you must respect the nitrogen cycle before putting the kitties in the aquarium, which usually takes between 4 and 5 weeks. Lighting is not necessary for the axolotl, it will stress it if it is too powerful but essential for the plants which participate in a good oxygenation of the water as well as an elimination of nitrates, and are very aesthetic. If you think that your axolotl is stressed by too much light, you can add floating plants to its aquarium (Vallisneria or waterweed can grow to the point of partially covering the surface of the water, or surface plants such as than Pistia Stratiotes or duckweed used by some to cover the surface of your water very quickly). But let's put into perspective our axolotls are now in clear water and no longer have their feet in the mud, they are perfectly suited to life in lighted aquariums now. The question of whether or not to put a bubbler? It all depends some axolotls will be strongly stressed by it others not for you to see with yours (knowing that the benefit is mainly visual the best way to have oxygenated water is to maintain a certain quantity of plants and to pump outlet nozzle to obtain a small swirl which helps to promote gas exchange). Temperature Axolotl lives at room temperature and does not require heating. A temperature of 16 to 18 ° C is perfect, above, the axolotl will be stressed and will be at risk of contracting diseases. The water should especially not exceed 22/23 ° C because this would put the life of the animal in danger. Do not be afraid if the temperature of your water drops, the axolotl is not afraid of cold water on the contrary. The water can drop to 10 ° C without any discomfort for axolotls (remember that their natural habitat is in cold mountain waters). Aquarium neon produces heat and therefore increases the temperature of the water. Prefer the led lighting as much as possible (between 6000 and 7000 k to obtain the solar spectrum is: cold white not less not more (risk of algae) and the intensity in lumens will vary according to the depth and width of the tray 850 lumens will be sufficient on a small portion 50 cm wide with 40 cm high but it will need at least 1300 lumens on a height of 50 cm by 50 cm wide.You choose bulbs or ramps. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Cohabitation Axolotl can coexist with certain fish that can live in cold water. The goldfish cannot coexist with an axolotl because it would attack its gills which it would take for bloodworms. On the other hand, we can easily make the axolotl "coexist" with small fish such as guppies, or platties, knowing that they will be used from time to time as a meal (therefore personal choice) if you incorporate fish, however, be careful. to have observed a quarantine of at least 15 days if they come from a pet store, the risk of parasitization for the axolotl is suddenly higher with this type of cohabitation. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Food The axolotl is not the most difficult to feed. It can feed on earthworms, (found in fishing stores or quite simply in the garden but nowadays be careful with the pollution of our land, personally I do not use, moreover some axolotls digest them very badly), (mealworms are to be avoided unless they crush their heads because they have small sharp teeth capable of causing lesions in the stomach of your axolotl but the chitin they contain remains a little indigestible), bloodworms (alive or frozen for young axolotls because past their 10 cms this does not meet the complete needs of axos), pieces of freshwater fish or pieces of beef heart (the latter rather in the case of a convalescence or reconstruction legs, etc. because it is more difficult to digest). The food should be the size of the axolotl's mouth because it does not chew. It can be given with pliers, or deposited at the bottom. We can indeed accustom the axolotls to eat at the bottom by always placing the food in the same place. Today there are pellets specially designed for axolotls, sold in specialized pet stores which contain all the elements necessary for a balanced diet and allow the other foods mentioned above to be given only “extra”. The calcium contained in these pellets stimulates the intestinal system (avoiding constipation which could lead to infections, prolapse, etc.) and the necessary vitamins. Young axolotls should be fed every day. When they reach 15 cm, they can be fed every 2-3 days. You will see if an axolotl is hungry when it moves around the aquarium a lot. The axolotl is a rather greedy animal but which (as a general rule) knows how to regulate its food consumption itself. Be careful not to overfeed your adult axolotl as some people are prone to obesity. The principle is therefore to feed 1 to 2 times a week, and at each feeding we give until the animal refuses (my adults only ask once a week), the hotter the water, the more the axolotls are hungry. Reproduction The axolotl is easy to reproduce, with or without stimulation. First, sexual maturity can be seen on light-colored axolotls by the fingertips turning black. Conversely, in dark-colored individuals, the fingertips are lighter. This maturity occurs early in the development of the axolotl, after about 6 months to a year, but it is better to wait until they have reached their adult size, or at least reached 20 cm, before reproducing them. To distinguish the sexes, it seems that the female is overall rounder than the male, with a proportionally shorter tail, but these criteria are quite difficult to observe. The most obvious clue is at the level of the cloaca, which is more swollen in the male than in the female. Female Male To stimulate reproduction, some lower the temperature to between 10 and 15 ° C for a few weeks. During this phase, we can separate the individuals but it is not essential. Some only separate their couples without lowering the temperatures. In others, even without any stimulation except the natural reduction in day length, and a natural lowering of temperature, axolotls recurred. Rather, the breeding season takes place from early winter through spring, but breeding can be initiated almost anytime. In some years, axolotls can lay up to 6 or 7 eggs. To reproduce, the male deposits one or more spermatophores (a kind of gelatinous cone with the sperm at the top) at the bottom of the water, and directs the female to suck it in with her cloaca. The spermatophore. The eggs are therefore fertilized in the abdomen of the female. The female then lays her eggs one by one by sticking them in the plants and on the decoration of the aquarium. She can lay between 50 and 500 eggs in one lay. On average, a laying revolves around a hundred eggs. Note that the eggs are the color of the female who lays them. The color of the young will appear as the embryos develop. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The eggs are round, transparent with the embryo in the center. We can also observe its evolution by transparency. The eggs develop and hatch in one to two weeks, depending mainly on the water temperature. The eggs must be separated from the adults as they will be devoured (the eggs or the young when they hatch). We place the eggs in a tray (with the plants because trying to take them off would damage them) with a bubbler preferably because they need well aerated water. When hatching, the young have their yolk sac to absorb, so we do not feed them during the first two days, the time of their absorption. The young are very hungry, so be aware that there will be losses during group breeding. This can be avoided by raising the little ones individually, but it takes a lot more time. The young will initially be fed live prey the size of their mouths (they are only stimulated the first few weeks by the movement of their food and therefore do not accept inert food). Artemia nauplii are very suitable. Artemia breeding kits are sold in pet stores. The young axolotls grow quite slowly, once they measure 2 or 3 cm (at the exit of the front legs), we will be able to feed them with thawed bloodworms. At this size, we feed them every day. Once they have reached ten centimeters, we can feed them every two days, switching to a richer and more nutritious food, such as pellets. Some will still claim every day, each his own pace, our axos are all different. When acquiring axolotls, be careful not to mix animals of too different sizes. Illnesses (More details in the health and hospital section) As young people are particularly voracious, it often happens that animals are missing a limb. Do not panic, it grows back very well in a few weeks, you just have to watch for the appearance of an infection or a yeast infection. Infection: presents as blackening or loss of injured areas. Treat with an aquarist antibacterial, following the instructions. Do not use any product containing malachite green, which is toxic to amphibians. Methylene blue can also be used in a bath, at a rate of 2 to 4 mg of product per liter of water (see methylene blue sheet to avoid dosing errors). Mycosis: appears in the form of a kind of cottony cloud on the skin of the animal. To be treated with an aquarist antifungal if the case is very severe otherwise salt bath without iodine (see disease and care sheets). Flotation : the animal floats on the surface and fails to return to the bottom despite its attempts. This situation is due to a stress of which the origin can be very diverse: current due to a too powerful filter, nervous fish which disturb them, bubbler, noise, too few hiding places, not enough plants, bad water quality. , excess food, occlusion, too much lighting, overcrowding, etc. The stress inflicted on the axolotl causes it to float and the stress to float, so this vicious circle must be broken. The solution is simple, just isolate the animal in a tank of fresh water (the ideal being 10-15 ° C) with just enough water so that its legs touch the bottom. It should be left in this tank for a few days without feeding it because it would float again. It is then necessary to determine the origin of the stress before reintegrating it in its usual baccalaureate to avoid a relapse. In most cases the serene adult axolotls do not float but if it does happen and you have enough plants for them to cling to it you might as well prefer this natural solution to additional stress by isolating it. "NO TO TUPP BAC / FOR NOTHING!" Budget When buying, an axolotl is not very expensive, between 10 euros and 35 euros depending on whether it is in a private or in a pet store. The most expensive purchase is the aquarium, at least 160 liters for a couple, but there are good opportunities on the net. You then have to buy a filter (3 times the flow rate of the tank capacity for a 200 liter tank 200 x 3 = 600 l / h for the pump) and plants. It is not a very expensive animal to maintain, since it does not require heating and its food can be purchased in pet stores and fishmongers. A sheet is available with the foods that you can give to your loulou. In short If you take the trouble to give it the place it needs, the axolotl is a very pleasant animal to observe that is not afraid to show itself as soon as the conditions are right. It makes an impression, pleases or displeases just as much, but it never leaves people indifferent. voici un groupe où vous pourrez f acilement trouver des aquariums et accessoires.

Choisir un prénom pour votre axolotl ? Bien sûr, faites votre choix ! Choose first names AT Arsene Aelys Aladdin Albator Alvin Almond Sneeze Adrien Alexander Ambrose Peanut Ares Artemis Aragorn Arnie Aramis Asahi Astragon Sneeze B Babet bauble Babouche Bamboo Banana Barney Basil Basta Batou Beko Ben Bernie Betty Bibi Bidule Rusk Biloute Birmann Biwan Bizbiz Blue Blacky Bob Coil Bobby Bohort Bongo Boss Bounty Boussa Burgund Buster Buzz Basil Breloc Brisby Bruno Bamboo Bubule Bull Byssou VS Peanut Cannabis Rubber Camille Candice Cinnamon Capuchin Candy Crystal Calypso Chalice Caprice Shell Carapuse Cherry Celestial Celia Coca Cortex Caramel Charly Cheddar Cheyenne Pet Choupette Cleo Clea Cinnamon Spring onion Casserole dish Couillu Soft-fang Casino Coco Cassegrain Chichami Chalk Poop Croutard Cruise Creature Centaur Cyrex Cyrius D Dalia Dark Denis Dexter Drake Diana Diddle Donut Dollie Dounia Diesel Dixie Daisy Dior Diaz Dipsy Didou Dumbo Dune E Elvis Ebony Eclipse Echo Lightning Edward Edgar Eddy Eglantine Elie Eliot Escly Eugenie Eureka Emmy Emile Ernest Esmeralda Elfy Einstein Eliott Emilio Elsa Eva F Fanny Flake String Fievel Fifa Fifi Filibere Fiji Trickster Fiona Mad fox Franck Flash Flame Flower Flint Flake Florence Fluffy Fufu Fanta Furby Strawberry Freddy Fresa Scoundrel Face Rascal Cheese In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. G Gandalf Ganna Gaia Ganesh Gaby Gargoyle Gargantua Gauguin Gaspad Gaspard Gisele Geek Genny Gessy Geraldine Gerard Grillotte Doodle Morello cherry Geronimo Gaya Marshmallow Wafer Galaxy Globule Grisou Gulli Gulliver Gustave Gusto Guizmo Gustin Gwen Gwendoline H Harvey Hades Harry Hach Haichi Happy Daring Hard Hamtaro Hisis Hecate Hector Heliot Hercules Hera Hermione Ermine Hemès Homer Holy Honey Hoppy Hope Horace Hortense Horuce / Horus Hermes Hiro Horton Havana Hamsterdam I Itchy ibis Ida Ignatius Igor Iona Iion Ivy He had me Ilona Ines Indiana Ingrid Izzy Icarus Iris Isatis Isildur Istanbul Indian Indy Itchi Iseuld Isidor (a) e Isis Irma Iridessa Irina Ivory Indy Izy J Jerry Jade jack Jeannine Jessie Jafar Jacqueline Jalna Jamaa Jami Janis Jack (y) Jimmy Joe Jojo John Jo Joe Joker Jumpy Jumbo Joker Jewel Jasmine Jacadi Jasper Jujube Jumbo Junior Justin Jump K Kiwi Karl Kali Kiki Kelly Kenza Kitty kim Kimy Kimbo Persimmons Kako Kiki Kenotte Kit-kat Kira Kiri Kenzo Koka Kookie Kirby L Loki Lanka Lana Feedback Leonardo Lenny leopold Liam Lilac Lychee Linda Leo Louis Lulu Lupine Loops Lionel Lutcho Lavender Lilac Lamba Lola Luna Lucy Lulu Lucky M Marius Mani Daisy Marli Marlon Merlin Mowgli Marcus Mickey Minus Mona Mojito Max Miffy Marvin Matty Mr. Jingle Marcel NOT Neo Nesquik Hazelnut Nazrin Nibbles Nuggets Teddy bear Nelson Ninja Neo O Oddy Oswald Sea urchin Oberkampf Onyx Opium Orion Orlando Opal Obi-wan Octave P Pablo Pikachu Thumper Feather Praline Puipui Pepito Pepsi Panda Pooky Q Quicky Quenotte Quinoa Quinn Quetsche Qatar Quenssi Quenelle Quidditch R Ron Roquefort Rita Rhino Romeo Roger Ruby Rodney Fast Rita S Sanssa Syd Stuart Spip Speedy Serge Scratt Screwy Splinter Scratchy So what's your favorite first name? T Toto Tortoro Tzuki Tiji Tic / Tac Totoche Tarzan Twix Teemo U Ugly Ursula Utopia Utah Ulysses Ulrich Uranus Usher Uyummy V Vanilla Vladek Virus Vegas Vader Vulcan Vilnus Veigar Vodka W Wizzy Wilfried Woppy Winnie Wallace Wanda Weasly / Weasley Wasabi Walter Watson X Xavier Xanax Xatu Xylophone Xavi Xi Xarelto Xerox Xutik Y Yupi Yummy Yacky Yochi / Yoschi Dinghy Yeti / Yety Yoda Yamaha Yolo Z Zamy Zacchary Zapette Zalou Zanguiev Zigzag Zip Zazie Zephyr

Quelles plantes se plaisent en eau froide avec nos axolotls? PLANTS COMPATIBLE WITH OUR AXOLOTLS IN COLD WATER Share Plants participate in aesthetics but also and above all in the health of the aquarium by absorbing waste and organic compounds and by producing oxygen. The plants also offer hiding places and pleasant hammocks for our kitties. And are used as a spawning place. They de-stress the axolotls and allow them to cling to them in the event of aerophagia as in nature,) and without having to stress them more by placing them in a tupp or plastic bin) They will have the following characteristics: Robustness Deep rooting or floating plants; Growth if possible medium or fast; Adaptation to temperatures recommended for axolotls; Other more general considerations: lighting adapted to the growth of the plant in question + aesthetics + size (height, maximum width?) + Price. Here is a group of aquatic plants (click on the icon) Here are some examples of adapted and proven plants, with their characteristics (but there are others!): 1) Vallisneria spiralis : moderate to strong light. Temperature: 18 ° C-26 ° C. pH: 6.5-7.8. Background. Vallisneria spiralis is a background plant or even for the intermediate zone. It is easy to maintain. Ideally, the aquarium should be high enough to accommodate it (it very often exceeds 50 cms). But since the leaves are very thin, if they weren't, Vallisneria spiralis wouldn't give too much shade to the plants living below by floating on the surface. The growth of Vallisneria spiralis is rapid and runners are constantly produced. Let the top of the rhizhome protrude slightly above the substrate. 2) Vallisneria gigantea : a background plant or for the intermediate zone. Temperature: 18 ° C-27 ° C. pH: 6-9. Because of its very high height (50 cm to 1 meter and more), it is rather suitable for very large tanks (where there, even with a high water height, the leaves will probably end up floating). It is very easy to maintain as long as the water is not too soft. The growth of Vallisneria gigantea is rapid and runners (cuttings by shoots) are produced regularly. Let the top of the rhizome protrude slightly above the substrate. 1) Vallisneria Asiatica : Thanks to its green spiral leaves, Vallisneria americana var. asiatica gives a nice contrast effect when planted in groups. From 18 to 28 C °. Ph 6 to 8.5. Background plant. Easy to maintain. A size of all your vallisnerias is easy a "summer cut" will take 5 minutes to be done. Lentils, frogs, pistias, etc. are also welcome in our containers. (Be careful, however, regarding duckweed which can quickly become invasive). 3) Hygrophila polysperma : it is the perfect plant when starting the aquarium. With little regard for water parameters, its very rapid growth both significantly reduces nitrates and phosphates and therefore offers strong competition to the algae which often mark the first months of an aquarium's life and of '' have a container already nicely planted in just a few weeks. The color and shape of the leaves vary depending on the lighting (the upper leaves, for example, have a superb pinkish hue). When it arrives at the surface, it nevertheless has a tendency to bend: also, it is useful at this stage to head it off. Multiplication: it is possible to cut off the suckers or the top of the mother stem (a good ten centimeters will allow a faster recovery): we will let them float for a few days until small roots appear and we will remove them. any lower leaves before pushing them delicately into the ground. Fast growing, especially if the water is hard. Here is a very effective and safe glue for gluing mosses or various plants on your decorations, rocks, etc. 4) Egeria densa : hardy plant with ultra-fast growth and large producer of oxygen: it absorbs a significant amount of nitrates and phosphates and even secretes toxins that slow down the development of cyanobacteria (bacteria resembling algae and being able to photo synthesize : they used to be called "blue algae"). Its development being ultra-fast, it will be necessary to take care that it does not obscure the plants living below (topping when the plant begins to bend at the surface). If there is no light, it loses its lower leaves, leaving only the stem: to avoid this inconvenience, it is sufficient to maintain a small space of a few centimeters between each plant. It is perfect when starting the aquarium (competition of size with algae which often mark the first months of the life of an aquarium). High temperatures do not suit her for a long time and she prefers water on the alkaline side. Propagation: lateral suckers to be cut when they reach 10 to 15 cm. A gap of 3 to 4 cm between each stem will allow the light to pass to the ground. 5) java mousse (to attach with fishing line or to a stump or a stone): forms a kind of carpet. 6) Cladophora aegagropila : a ball of algae that absorbs nitrates? Well I would say like all plants, except that this one can bring the filamentous algae into the aquarium if it deteriorates, so be careful ... Intense lighting highly recommended. pH: indifferent. It is useful to turn it over regularly if you want it to keep its initial shape, and to "wring it out". from time to time to rid it of the impurities it may have stored. 7) Echinodorus bleheri is a beautiful and undemanding plant at the same time, but it should not be forgotten to prune it regularly so that it does not take too much light from the plants that grow under it. E. Bleheri also tolerates dimly lit containers well: it will grow on its own in the direction of the light. It is an undemanding solitary and easy to maintain, whether you are a novice or experienced aquarist as long as it is not put in a tank that is too small. It is sometimes sold under the trade name of Paniculatus. 8) Ludwigia Repens : a very fast growing plant if the lighting is good / pH: 6.5-7.8. Lighting: intense. It changes color depending on the power of the lighting (from green to yellow through pink as close as possible to the light). Intense lighting recommended for optimal growth. 9) Riccia Fluitans : surface plant that appreciates cold water and the nitrates produced by goldfish. pH: 5.5-7.8. Lighting: strong to very strong. Goldfish consume it but, under good conditions (intense lighting and addition of CO2 recommended), they will not overcome it as it grows quickly! Note: it is also possible to ballast it on a stone or on a stump using fishing line. 10) Anubia nana : very weak to moderate lighting. Preferably place it in the shade if the aquarium is very bright. Otherwise, its growth being slow, algae would tend to develop on its magnificent leaves and then suffocate it. Temperature: 22 ° -26 ° C. pH: 6.0 - 8.0. It must be attached to a stone, volcanic rock, or stump. It can be fixed with fishing line at first, until the roots are fixed on the chosen support: avoid burying the rhizome (this would rot the plant). Ideal in the foreground. 11) Elocharis Acicularis requires a rather intense light to favor in the foreground of your aquarium multiply by buds, will thrive in a ph of 6.5 to 7.2 at temperatures ranging from 10 to 25 ° C of slow growth. 12) Lilaeopsis brasiliensis , is also placed in the foreground, with a ph of 6 to 8 and a temperature of 15 to 26 ° C, for a rather slow growth. 13) Lysimachia Nummularia is placed at the bottom and on the sides for a ph of 6 to 8 with intense lighting and temperatures between 15 and 25 ° C. Its growth is very rapid. For a KH between 5 and 15. Its growth is rapid. 14) Hydrocotyle leucocephala : Fast growing, adapts easily, grows well in relatively hard water. As soon as it is installed in the aquarium, it will be attracted to the light and the surface of the water on which it will propagate. Can very well be grown as a non-rooted floating plant. Small lexicon of plants from dennerle by didier crick view in pdf 15) Ceratophyllum demersum is a strictly aquatic plant. It does not have a root and it is common to see it floating in the aquarium, but some of its leaves turn into anchoring organs (rhizoids) ... 16) Microsorum Pteropus var. Windelov var. Windelov 17) Althernanthera Reineckii Le dessous des feuilles de Alternanthera reineckii forme un contraste plein d'effet avec le vert végétal de l'aquarium, surtout si la plante est disposée en groupe. Une lumière intense accentue la coloration rouge des feuilles. La plupart des Alternanthera sont difficiles à cultiver en aquarium, mais celle-ci est assez accommodante.

Créer un paludarium PALUDARIUM Share We are going to list all the plants that can constitute a paludarium with a very aesthetic rendering, and totally compatible with an aquarium for axolotls! AMPHIBIOUS PLANTS Grass Acorus Anubias Bolbitis heudelotii Cyperus papyrus Cryptocoryne pontederiifolia Echnidorus frandiflorus Hysrocotyle verticillata Hygriphila Lagenandra ovata Lobelia cardinalis Microsorum pteropus In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. TERRESTRIAL PLANTS Cordyline Roots in dip only. Alocasia Epipremnum Dendrobiums (orchid family) Dracaena Ficus pumila Fittonia verschaffeltii Guzmania Adiantum Hedera helix Soleirolia soleirolii Marenta Calathea Anthurium Asplenium nidus Spathiphyllum Aglaonema Vanilla orchid Begonia tamaya Asparagus Exalatata As well as: Iris Mousses Soleirolia soleirolii Syngonium In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Ceratophyllum demersum Riccia fluitans Lemna minor Trapa natans Thank you Jj Poriau FLOATING PLANTS

L'axolotl, le soigner, l'élever, s'occuper d'une ponte, comment bien le nourrir ainsi que ses petits? HEALTH Nathalie C Nathalie C Evolution over 15 days photos below Ariane Gaspard PHARMACY COLLOIDAL MONEY VITAMINS ANOREXIA REMEDIES MYCOSES & FLAVOBACTERIUM NATURAL CARE WOUNDS, INJURIES HYDROCOELOMA OCCLUSION ABSCESS BACTERIA, COCCIDIA INTESTINAL WORMS RED LEGS SYNDROME ORAL ABCES GHOST MODE ABNORMAL FLOTATION EUTHANASIA STROKE NEUROLOGICAL DISORDER HYPOALBUMINEMIA CHYTRIDOMYCOSIS EGG RETENTION, OPERATION PROLAPSE JUMP OUT OF THE WATER TO ANCHOR, LICE NECROSIS OF THE EXTREMITES, BACTERIAL INFECTION OODINIUM OR VELVET DISEASE LIST OF VETERINARIES LARROQUETTE TARN VETERINARY CLINIC INJURIES, OPERATIONS CATARACTS AND OCCLUSION OPERATION EUTHANASIA