RESEARCH

Le splantes apportent oxygène, consomment des nitrates, et offrent de merveilleux hamacs à nos axololts. Photos of heavily planted limbs Plants with our axolotls Clean the plants before introduction into the aquarium Paludarium Aquascaping Algae Poubellarium Create your pool

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Axolotls et Cie est un site web dédié principalement à l'axolotl, cet étrange animal aquatique... mais également à d'autres cousins amphibiens. Vous découvrirez sa maintenance complète et détaillée ainsi que de belles photos. Les mises à jour sont hebdomadaires avec l'aide de vétérinaires. Axolotls et Cie is a website dedicated mainly to the axolotl, but also to other amphibian cousins, some articles also concern other aquatic ones, you will discover it, even if the main theme of the site remains the axolotl. You will be able to discover its complete and detailed maintenance as well as beautiful photos. Updates are weekly with the help of veterinarians, and feedback from members in France and abroad; some countries with more hindsight than us. Wishing you a pleasant discovery, welcome! Come and discuss with the members of the forum. Axolotls et Cie Latest additions to your forum! flaviegiorgianni99 11h À la recherche Like Reactions 0 0 comments 0 Views Laurie Gabillard 7d Axolotl malade qui perd ses pattes de devant Like Reactions 0 8 comments 8 Views crissou.oliviero Mar 28 Dons Axolotls leucistiques, gold, sauvages Like Reactions 0 2 comments 2 Views Nathalie C Nathalie C Nathalie C

L'axolotl comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut être blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? Intestinal worms Share In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. INTERNAL PARASITES / INTESTINAL WORMS Symptoms: the animal begins to eat less. It can even regurgitate. The more time passes, the less he eats and the more he regurgitates. He may (but not always) have abnormal restlessness, coupled with violent lateral torsion of the body. The head then touches the tail. He grew thinner and thinner and died after a few weeks. This condition is contagious. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Flagyl is a human specialty based on metronidazole. This active ingredient has anti-infective (sensitive anaerobic germs) and anti-amoebic (which people often confuse it with a dewormer). Often there is an amalgam between product which acts on the level of the intestine and dewormer ... these are two different things! Metronidazole acts against certain internal protozoa (digestive flagellates and coccidia) and imaginal cestodoses. Its spectrum of action is therefore not very wide and yet it is very often used by aquarists ... therefore obviously misguided. Panacur is often combined with Flagyl to treat a wider spectrum of parasites. Fish, like any animal species, are frequently parasitized. These may be parasites attached to the gills, fins or skin (we speak of ectoparasites) or parasites infesting the viscera (liver, stomach, intestine), the gonads or even the muscles (we speak of 'endoparasites). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. It is very common for fish to be parasitized by nematode larvae (or roundworms) of the Anisakidae family. These larvae are frequently present in many species of fish or cephalopods. The cycle of the parasite is as follows: The adult parasite is found in the stomachs of mammals. The embryonated eggs are thrown back into the water. They hatch by releasing a larva which will infect a small plankton crustacean. This crustacean is eaten by fish which thus inherit the parasite. The larva becomes encysted in the viscera and / or flesh of the fish while waiting for the fish to be eaten. Man, through the consumption of parasitized fish or cephalopods, is an accidental host of these parasites. It does not enter into the life cycle of these and constitutes a parasitic dead end. These larvae can cause in humans, when ingested alive, a gastrointestinal illness called anisakiasis or anisakidosis. Due to the sheer complexity of epidemiological phenomena and the variety of hosts, it is difficult to control the presence of parasites in fish. Also, the prevention of anisakidosis involves simple measures before consuming the products. Indeed freezing or cooking is enough to kill these larvae and make them harmless. The fish must then either be cooked to a minimum of 60 ° C (the flesh must not be pink at the level of the bone), or frozen for at least 24 hours at -20 ° C in the heart of the product before being eaten raw or undercooked. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Regarding Flagyl, it suffices to adapt the dosage of course. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Capizol This treatment is now withdrawn from the website following the return of another veterinarian indicating to have observed cases of paralysis in reaction to the active molecule. So even if some vets advise it, caution requires warning you. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The Panacur Active molecule: Fenbendazole Body weight should be assessed as accurately as possible before calculating the dose. Panacur works by removing nematodes from the axolotl. Thus dewormed the animal can regain strength and weight. It is often used when Flagyl has not worked. Different types of worms Nematodes : Treatment is with anthelmintics (dewormers). There are several molecules: Fenbendazole: Panacur (dog), Levimasole: Lobiavers, Capizol, Aquaverm, Flubendazol: Fluvermal, NOT RECOMMENDED FOR AXOLOTLS Benzimidazole: Nedol (JBL). Cestodes : The treatment is based on the use of Praziquantel which is found in: Droncit (Bayer) and Drontal - Dewormer for cats (oral route to mix in food (or bath but less effective and more restrictive) Plativers (Biocanina), Cestocur, Gyrodol (JBL), Tremazol (SERA). FLAGYL (Metronidazole molecule) Or half a tablet (dosed in 500 mg) for 20 L of water, once a day and for 5 days or even 10 days if necessary (crush the compress in a glass of water, a mortar, so that it dissolves better afterwards in the aquarium). If you use the syrup it will be necessary to dose 1ml for 1 liter of water. In the event that your axolotl is severely affected, it will have to be treated directly internally by direct absorption at a rate of one tenth of the tablet per day or more conveniently with Flagyl in its liquid form in syrup! At a rate of 0.6ml per day, it will be necessary to treat 4 days then leave 5 days of rest for the digestive system of the axolotl to treat again 4 days. CAUTION: the animal is generally better after 1 to 3 days. But you have to continue the treatment until the end, otherwise the parasite will come back. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Dolthene (oxfendazole) ? Many undesirable effects on our axolotls, many of them would present an intolerance to this molecule which damages their skin (desquamation) and their gills. Here is now the story of "Bidule" by Campbell Atkins "I got it on 08/31/17, my best friend arrived at my house with it, without my knowing it, because it was for my birthday. At first I didn't know what an axolotl below 10cm really looked like, so for me it was normal (as the seller said) it would grow bigger and bigger and its gills expand. But hey ... while posting a photo of him, someone told me that he was in very bad health! So I came to the groups and there the weeks went by ... I didn't know what he actually had, people said it was going to pass, others that he had worms. So I gave him beef heart, which he ate perfectly well, but ended up vomiting 2/3 days later. But the day he got even thinner, I asked again for advice on the Axolotls et Cie group, and there I was certified that he had worms .. the problem: I couldn't get Flagyl. So a woman sent me 2/3 days after my request, but it was in the form of tablets. On another group, I was told that I had no heart, that in liquid form he would survive with the treatment while there with pills I was going to kill him, that I had no pity for him, that for me it was more of a toy that one replaces once broken ... but I believed in it, he spent a week + 4 days after a short break, in Flagyl (as a tablet diluted in the 'water) and after that, beef heart cure to make it fat! In a week we could already see the difference: redder gill filaments, thicker limbs, bigger belly. He was finally out of danger! The only problem then: the pellets ... he didn't want any at all! I left him for almost a week without eating (I offered to him but he didn't want any) until the day he threw himself on it! For almost a month now, he's been back to being an Axo like the others, eating properly, and regaining a healthy life! " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. This testimony could help people, thank you to Campbell, his perseverance paid off !! The following photos are very telling ... The first days... Anorexia can have several causes, parasitization is one. The digestive system is then irritated and the axolotl regurgitates because its irritated throat prevents it from absorbing food. Today 12/26/2017

Red legs. Pathologie pouvant toucher les amphibiens et urodèles "RED LEGS" OR RED PAW SYNDROME CAUSES The "red leg" syndrome is a common infection in amphibians (anurans and urodeles). This pathology is recognized by the redness of the legs and / or the abdomen of the amphibian and is generally due to the bacteria: Aeromonas hydrophila, an opportunistic bacterial pathogen. But other bacteria have been identified that can cause this pathology: in particular Pseudomonas, Proteus, Citrobacter, Salmonella and Escherichia coli. It has also been suggested that Chlamydia-like organisms and even certain viruses could cause red leg disease. Newly acquired malnourished amphibians that are kept in poor water quality or overcrowded, are particularly susceptible to 'red leg' syndrome, spoiled food, exposure to toxins such as pesticides are also factors. of this disease. Several animals are usually affected if they are housed in the same area. SYMPTOMS The redness of the amphibian's legs and abdomen is caused by the dilation (or stretching) of the capillaries under its skin. The amphibian may even begin to bleed from the muscles, tongue, or “third eyelid,” (a protective skin fold under the amphibian's eyes). Other symptoms that may be observed include: Anemia Lethargy Extreme weight loss Open sores on the skin, nose, and toes that do not heal Ascites (accumulation of fluid in the abdominal cavity) DIAGNOSTIC Your veterinarian will look for signs of generalized infection, which may include inflammation or localized dead cells in the liver, spleen, and other abdominal organs. Blood or body fluid tests to check for the presence of the organism causing the infection are also done. As other axolotls are at risk of being affected, it is good that they receive antibiotics for prevention. Even with treatment, many affected animals will die from this disease. Its course can be so rapid that by the time the animal shows signs of disease, considerable irreversible damage has occurred to internal organs.

L'aquascaping ou comment recréer un décor naturel et harmonieux chez vous AQUASCAPING Share In the 1990s, Takashi Amano, then a photographer, gradually introduced the Japanese aesthetic drawn from the concepts of Wabi-sabi and Zen in the aquarium hobby. The most influential figure to date in Aquascaping, Takashi Amano is the creator of the ADA brand, which popularized a range of products that have allowed a wide distribution of the tools and techniques specific to the discipline. This brand is also at the origin of the global IALPC competition which, year after year, allows the general public to discover the most beautiful creations of enthusiasts from all over the world. Introduction Aquascaping corresponds to the arrangement of the different elements of a freshwater aquarium (marine aquascaping is not very widespread). Starting from the intention of reconstituting a natural setting, the elements used will also be natural: sand, plants, roots, rocks etc. In some aquariums, the fish are there to highlight the plants and other elements of the decor, which is quite paradoxical. The Natural Style This style is characterized by a particular attention to the arrangement of roots, stones and aquatic plants in order to create a magnified representation of an aquatic environment or a terrestrial landscape. In this sense the Natural Aquarium is not a Biotope, in fact the choice of plants, the composition of the scenery (hardscape) or the selected population does not claim to replicate a natural environment but to create an aquatic landscape whose main interest lies in its aesthetics. Aquascaping can be considered as an art form because the objective of the aquascapeur is to restore in his aquarium an atmosphere that he likes or moves. Whether we follow the rules or not, we all do a bit of aquascaping by arranging the elements of the aquarium according to technical or personal criteria. The main forms of aquascaping are as follows: Japanese aquascaping The objective here is to represent in the aquarium a piece of aquatic nature or not (forest, mountain etc.) The basis of Japanese aquascaping is the hardscape, ie all of the “hard” elements such as the substrate, stones and roots. Some aquascapeurs realize aquariums only composed of these elements. The design seeks to approach sobriety, a value sought by the aquascap Dutch aquascaping Undoubtedly the oldest form of aquascaping (competitions have been organized since the 1960s), Dutch aquascaping consists of creating a very dense and perfectly maintained plant mat. Between 10 and 20 varieties of plants are used here. The aquascaper arranges its plants in stairs and creates a main path (as well as side aisles), so as to give a beautiful aspect of depth to the whole. Wild Jungle aquascaping The master of this technique is George Booth. The aquascapeur chooses a focal point in his aquarium on which he wants to attract the eye of the observer by using the textures and colors of the elements of his tank. Most forms of aquascaping follow one of these composition rules: The triatic arrangement: the aquarium elements are grouped together on one side. Their height decreases to the center of the aquarium. The other side of the aquarium remains empty. The concave arrangement: the elements are arranged in a V shape to leave an empty space in the middle. This space is often used to represent a path passing through the middle of a forest or mountains. The linear layout: unlike the previous diagrams, it does not respect a strict rule. The linear layout aims to represent a very graphic whole by playing with volumes and colors. The convex layout: the elements are grouped together to create a visual impact. They can be centered, for example. Some rules and tips 1. Respect the focal point and the golden ratio: so that the tank is harmonious, the aquascapeur determines a focal point (or two) towards which it would like to draw attention. It can be a particularly interesting plant or stone. The location of the focal point is determined by the golden ratio (also used in painting) To find this location you have to measure the length of the tank and divide it by 2.618. Then measure this result on your bin, indicating it with a felt-tip pen (this part has for ration 1). The remaining length corresponds to the length whose ration is 1.618. 2.Use stem plants to carve the decor. 3.Create levels with the substrate respecting the foreground, the median plane and the back plant so that each plant is highlighted. 4.For aquariums below 200l, choose plants with fine foliage so that the tank appears larger. 5.Do not arrange its elements too symmetrical to keep a natural appearance. 6.Group the different plants according to their species for a better impact, do not sparse them. Forest effect Tree alone Mountain effect

Le low tech est ce possible avec des axolotls? Retours d'expériences de membres. What is a Low Tech aquarium? Share A Low Tech aquarium, as its name suggests, is a tank that uses as few technical tools as possible. Often these tanks do not include filtration and heating and only basic lighting, or even no lighting. Inspired by the Walstad method, these aquariums "turn" by leaving mainly the plants and the population of the tank to create a cycle allowing life in the aquarium only through photosynthesis. What is the difference between the low-tech method and the natural aquarium? There is no such thing as 100% natural aquarium keeping, the natural side refers only to the means that plants have to act as a natural filter, that is to say that in a well planted aquarium we can do without filtration. . But even in a so-called "natural" aquarium you have to intervene, contain the vegetation, use lighting, compensate for evaporation, feed the fish. Why is filtration not necessary in low-tech? In low-tech or natural aquariums, it is the plants that act as a filter. If the filtration does not disturb the balance between axolotls and plants, the plants manage to absorb the ammonium obtained from the excrements of the aquatics, thus preventing the proliferation of nitrites and nitrates. Several scientists have shown that, in aquatic environments, plants quickly absorb nitrogenous matter, in an aquarium the same thing happens. They also found that plants can fix heavy metals as well. The various experiments have shown that aquatic plants could very well replace filters. Does it seem like low-tech or natural aquariums are dirty? Absolutely not. A low-tech aquarium is cleaned less often, less siphoning from the ground and less water changes, and the aquarium stays clean thanks to a light agitation that does not stir too much, and thanks to the many bacteria, which take care of degrade waste. A low-tech bin remains clean and the water is not cloudy, but it is certain that it is not a sanitized bin since in low-tech we allow plant waste to decompose naturally and we also use the leaves. dead. Is it true that in a natural aquarium very few fish or axolotls are needed? It's like traditional aquarium keeping, you have to avoid overcrowding. The aquarium should be proportionate to the size of the fish. What must count are the needs of the fish, it is necessary to know if they live in groups, to know their size once adult, their ability to reproduce, their aggressiveness or not, their swimming area (groundfish, medium , of surface). Generally most aquariums are overcrowded, it is necessary to make a choice, the choice of their well-being, happy fish are those who do not constantly struggle to defend their territory or to feed themselves and who can hide when they do. feel the need. Here we will rather talk about axolotls, refer to the comfort table for correct measurements. It seems that you have to feed the fish very little in a natural aquarium so as not to pollute too much, is it true? No, you have to feed the fish correctly, several times a day in small quantities. We must observe the fish after feeding, they must not have too big a belly and that they do not become too heavy or unable to swim, that is the sign that they are overfed. Afterwards, if there is excess food that falls on the sand, it does not matter, once degraded this food will release a whole bunch of elements that the plants will absorb, it will become a natural fertilizer, snails will also benefit. Finally, the fish should be fasted once a week. In our aquariums, unlike wild life, they are fed regularly. A weekly fast allows their digestive system to rest, it helps keep them healthier and alive longer. Do you need a large aquarium for it to work well without a filter? No, it is not mandatory to have a large tank, from 30 liters an aquarium works very well without filtration at all. It suffices to put Ceratophyllum or Elodea, and duckweed so that the environment remains healthy. Obviously, in this kind of tray, you can put either a Fighter, or Killies, or a couple of Dario Dario. Lighting is still necessary for the plants. For maintenance it is as for larger bins. You have to compensate for evaporation, make two or three water changes a year, prune the plants, etc. 2) Aquarium cycling, nitrogen cycle, bacteria: Is there also a cycling period for a natural aquarium, as in the traditional aquarium? There is a period during which the ecosystem is set up, the duration may vary depending on the aquarium, but during this period the aquarium is unstable because a host of bacteria gradually colonize the tank. It is better to wait two to three weeks before putting your fish. For aquariums with potting soil the cycling period can be longer, from three weeks to a month or more. Diana Walstad says you can put the fish in the aquarium from day one, is that feasible? Diana Walstad doesn't say you have to do it but that she does it, she doesn't say that her way of doing things is the best, she only describes her way of doing things, it's very different. Personally, I do not recommend stocking your aquarium from the first day because that would require increased monitoring of the tank and the aquatic ones. During the first two or three weeks, the ecosystem stabilizes slowly, there is no point in rushing. Why stress yourself out by putting the fish in quickly when you can do it in a relaxed and serene way and take your time ?! Does a natural aquarium also experience the nitrite peak? No, in a natural or low-tech aquarium there is no what is called the 'nitrite peak'. Colonization by bacteria occurs gradually, even if there is at the beginning a slight increase in nitrites, the process goes almost unnoticed, this is in the case where there is no powerful filtration and the aquarium is abundantly planted with real aquatic plants. Why is there no nitrite peak in a natural tank? In a natural aquarium nitrification is also done but in a much gentler way. As there is no powerful 'biological' filtration with large filter media, which offers immense ground for the proliferation of bacteria, there is also no sudden increase in nitrites. In fact, the increase in nitrites is proportional to the 'filter' masses present in the filtration and to the power of the filter. In addition, in a natural aquarium, aquatic plants participate in the regulation of bacteria and maintain their populations at a reasonable level. An important thing is that pure aquatic plants take up ammonia in the form of ammonium, so there is no significant nitrification. Is the nitrogen cycle the same as in an aquarium with filtration? No, the same does not happen with nitrogen in a natural aquarium. In an aquarium with filtration, the ammonium cannot be absorbed by the plants since it is sucked by the filter where, because of the filter media, it is transformed by the bacteria into nitrites and then into nitrates. On the other hand, in a natural aquarium, it is the plants that absorb ammonium directly, so there is no large production of nitrates. In a well-planted, well-functioning aquarium, the nitrate level should be zero. There may, however, be some but at a very low rate, if this happens it is necessary to add plants or replace some. Can I introduce my fish as soon as my aquarium is planted and put in water? No, it is better to wait a fortnight after filling it with water. If you find that the aquatic plants are growing well and are healthy, this is where you can start by introducing a few fish. You can optionally test your water to verify that there is no risk to your axolotls. How long do I have to wait before putting on the axolotls or fish? It takes two to three weeks for the aquarium to stabilize. It will take a lot of pure aquatic plants and leave the snails at the start. To put the fish, the vegetation must be healthy and lush. Lots of plants means big clumps of Elodea or Ceratophyllum, vallisnerias, fast growing plants (not like anubias) and not that you need lots of different varieties. I have been offered a product that is supposed to bring bacteria into the aquarium quickly to speed up cycling, is that a good thing? I do not think it is necessary to inoculate the tank artificially. It is best to let the process take place naturally. By putting plants and gastropods, you introduce bacteria that will multiply, no need to spend money and force nature. I was told that bringing bacteria was essential? We can very well do without these products. Bacteria come naturally with plants, snails and water. Our mains water is already full of bacteria which will grow rapidly in a favorable environment such as an aquarium. For bacteria to thrive you need water, light, and a little heat. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Equipment, mixing, lighting: I have an aquarium with an internal decanter, how can I remove the filtration? There are two solutions, either you remove the decanter by cutting the silicone with a cutter, it's very easy, or you remove the filter media and you keep the decanter empty with just the turbine. Why do you have to stir the water since filtration is unnecessary? Stirring is often necessary, not always but often, because this allows the nutrients and carbon dioxide to be distributed to the plants, it also makes it possible to homogenize the temperature. But the most important thing is that it helps provide oxygen to bacteria all over the tank. It is thanks to oxygen that bacteria do their job of degrading and recycling waste. It is only when the waste is sufficiently degraded that plants can reuse it. Stirring also prevents the formation of the biofilm on the surface which, if not broken, prevents gas exchange. I have a 30 liter aquarium with a Fighter, do I have to put a pump for the brewing, is it really mandatory? Nothing is mandatory, you have to test and do according to the specifics of your baccalaureate. It is true that the Betta does not like the current which tires it out if it is too strong. Try with no current at all, it can work very well or with an enhancer. If your plants are growing well and there is no buildup of waste, your aquarium is viable without mixing. Can an air pump be used instead of a turbine for brewing? The ideal is to have a mashing wheel which moves the surface very slightly, or a small internal filter without the filter foams. A bubbler drives out the carbon dioxide and thus deprives the plants of the essential CO2. The bubbler can be useful during hot weather, in case of fish disease, or at the start of the installation of a new aquarium, but that's it. That's the theory, personally, and failing to have a small turbine, I used a bubbler for my 200l, I didn't notice anything abnormal, my plants were exploding. I believe that a bubbler in a large tank does less damage than in a small ... I see the beginning of an explanation. Can I use my external filter if I remove the filter media? If the filter is powerful it is not wise. The external filters are generally too powerful and if you remove the filter media the power is even greater, everything in the aquarium is likely to blow up. A strong current is not necessary and if you have scavengers like Ostracods or Aselles, they may either get sucked in or be injured, and fish don't like too strong a current either. A small turbine (ventury) producing a slight current is sufficient. How powerful should the circulation pump be? For an aquarium without filtration you do not need a powerful turbine, once the volume of the tank is largely sufficient. But this is difficult to find when you have a small aquarium, for this kind of small tank there are small internal filters that you can clamp and you just have to remove the foam. I have a small internal filter, does the foam around the strainer create nitrates? It is quite possible that the foam, as in conventional filtration, produces some nitrates, but this is marginal. If you want to avoid this, just rinse the foam once a week. But if your tank is large, this nitrate level will be insignificant. I have a small internal filter with different foams, should I keep them? No, you don't have to keep them, these foams are intended for a traditional aquarium hobby. In low-tech you just need the turbine to make the current. Optionally, you can replace these sophisticated foams with perlon, just to prevent a snail from getting sucked in and blocking the turbine. Can I use my under sand filter for my natural aquarium? This is not useful because in a natural aquarium there is a need in the soil for an anaerobic zone. This type of filter, even if practical for small breeding tanks, ends up clogging the substrate quite quickly. It should be remembered that, in the last layer of sand, bacteria live without oxygen and produce CO2 by consuming nitrites, if the soil is too oxygenated, this denitrifying operation does not take place and that would be a shame. What lighting can we use in low-tech? Usually the lighting supplied with the aquarium is sufficient. Too much lighting can benefit the algae. In low-tech we use an average lighting of 1w for a maximum of 2 liters. at 1w for 3 liters. The color T ° must be between 6 and 7000K, and the IRC between 80 and 90. Fluorescent tubes are very efficient, it is simply necessary to avoid lighting with the blue color which favors algae. Compact fluorescent bulbs for medium bins are also effective, for larger bins you can add more than one. CFL bulbs for horticultural use are also suitable for the growth of aquatic plants, they give very good results with a longer lifespan, in addition to their low cost. (According to D. Walstad) ( see lighting article ). How many hours a day should you light your aquarium? It can vary from 8 to 12 hours a day. If your aquarium is very planted and especially well populated you can light a dozen hours per day. If you have simple vegetation, and few fish, daily lighting between 8 and 10 hours is sufficient. Remember that the more you light, the more your plants need nutrients and CO2, if these are lacking there is no point in straining the lighting. Lighting a lot is not going to make your plants grow any faster. You have to find the right balance. I read that D. Walstad advises to take a "nap" of 4 hours in his aquarium, is it really useful? This is indeed what she advocates. A cut of 4 hours during the day allows the stock of CO2 to be able to be reconstituted. His explanation seems logical to me, and in view of his bins this method works. It also allows you to enjoy your aquarium for longer since it is lit in the evening, when you are at home, after a day's work. Low Tech suitable for beginners? Even if the theory is attractive. Featured on many blogs as the ultimate solution combining ecology, well-being of aquarium occupants and economy. The Low Tech tank is not necessarily a good idea for the amateur aquarist. Indeed, this system presented as simplistic by aficionados of the all natural and adapted to the poubellarium requires a certain amount of knowledge in aquarist which is not necessarily mastered by beginners. And this kind of natural tank will quickly become an adventure "without a net" which could derail this project by a simple disturbance of the water parameters. So, beginners think twice before taking the all-natural route. Sometimes, it is wiser and more responsible towards your future residents, to opt for a lower volume of water resulting in less maintenance cost than to choose a system that you will not master before several failures. You will need to test the ammonia in your aquarium regularly to be sure that the pollution is well absorbed by the plants. Here are the experiences of the members now axolotls in Low Tech In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "So for my lowtech tank I started it two years ago (early 2016). I had originally prepared the aquarium in the classic way with an external filter, and cycled it for about 4 weeks. On a forum I met a person who kept his axolotls in lowtech. He was very criticized on this subject. But his maintenance greatly interested me being a follower of the natural on a daily basis. I read a lot, French articles but especially English. Some had kept fish "fragile" without problem for years with this technique. Despite the fear I took out my filter, I took it to a friend and put it in his aquarium to maintain the bacteria alive and active, in case of concern. I tested my water every day, with an empty tank next to it in case of problems. I never needed it. From the start my tank was heavily planted, a bit of everything , and with a single axolotl at the start to avoid too much pollution when starting up. 6 months after a second joined the baccalaureate. I then put a small internal filter to create a movement of water, it is not mandatory, but the axolotls are not at speeds. I added emerged plants over time, I test new ones regularly, I find it a plus. I drew a lot of inspiration from poubellariums. I have never siphoned off the ground. I never do a water change. I add a little pipe water from time to time to make up for the evaporation. I rarely prune the plants, I like the mess it gives. I observe a lot, the number of snails, where are they, the micro-organisms, the behavior of the axolotls, the state of its gills, etc ... " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "The plants in submerged I have vallisneria, java moss, lentils, alterantera Emerged: Monstera, cyperus, dwarf fern, Dieffenbachia, pothos, chlorophytum, lucky bamboo and other dracaena and an unidentified pante. " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. (To come photos of the new 150 x 50 x 60 bin) In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Thanks to Stella Lagriffoul for this sharing. ^^ In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

To test this feature, visit your live site. Categories All Posts My Posts Soyez les bienvenus ! Axolotls & Cie est ravi de vous accueillir. Posez toutes vos questions ici Create New Post Adopter ou faire adopter Follow Views Posts 232 Vous pouvez également proposer des commandes sur aquaterratec afin d'économiser les frais de port. Poissons, crevettes, etc Follow Views Posts 14 Poissons et invertébrés Présentations Follow Views Posts 1 Petit coin présentation de vos loulous, de vous, vos aquariums :) Concours Follow Views Posts 1 Ici vous pourrez poster vos photos. Celle qui recoltera le plus de votes se verra récompensée. Santé Follow Views Posts 18 Questions santé, soins Matériel aquario Follow Views Posts 6 Vous souhaitez vendre un aquarium ou du matériel? Ou bien vous avez des questions? Urodèles et anoures Follow Views Posts 0 Le monde des amphibiens est vaste... New Posts flaviegiorgianni99 11h À la recherche OCCITANIE Bonjour, je suis à la recherche d’un axolotl sauvage environ 20 à 25 cm je suis dans le 31 Merci Like 0 comments 0 Laurie Gabillard 3d Axolotl malade qui perd ses pattes de devant Santé Bonjour, Depuis qq temps un de mes deux axolotls a les deux pattes de devant qui se délitent. Je l’ai déjà isolé 10 jours puis je l’ai remis avec la femelle qui a un ventre énorme j’imagine avec plein d’œufs. J’ai lu qu’elle aussi pouvait mourir si elle ne pondait pas. L’an dernier elle avait déjà pondu deux fois. J’ai mis de l’argent colloïdal dans l’aquarium mais je remarque que son état se dégrade. Je me sens démunie… Like 8 comments 8 crissou.oliviero 7d Dons Axolotls leucistiques, gold, sauvages ILE DE FRANCE Bonjour à toutes et tous, Nous avons des axolotls depuis 2 ans. Nous devons déménager et malheureusement nous ne pouvons pas les emmener. Nous les donnons et recherchons des nouvelles familles qui sauront les chouchouter. Ils ont éclos chez nous, ils ont 2 ans et font entre 20 et 25 centimètres. Merci pour votre retour. A votre disposition pour d'autres informations Like 2 comments 2 Forum - Frameless

L'été approche, et là panique ! La température de l'eau de votre aquarium ne cesse d'augmenter comment faire ? Haut de page refroidir l eau refroidir l eau Cool the water in your aquarium Method 1: Frozen water bottles. Summer is approaching, and there is panic! The water in your aquarium keeps increasing, but our axolotls like cool water (ideally 16/18 ° C) how to do this ??? First, have leds for lighting instead of neons, in fact the former remain cold and therefore do not heat your water. Do not have a cover that will keep the heat. Besides, cover plus neon = 2 additional degrees for the water! We will discuss here the different methods, at different costs ... Freeze bottles of water in your freezer (removing the labels that they do not end up in the aquarium), 2 to 3 for a 240 l morning and evening. 4 morning, noon and evening for 300 up to 500 liters. Afterwards, the heat of the room affects the cooling parameters of your water, so it's up to you to monitor your thermometer the first few times. Advantage: Inexpensive Disadvantage: more or less space to be freed in the freezer. Method 2 : A pedestal fan directed at the surface of the water This method allows to gain at least two degrees depending on the power of the fan it can be more. Advantage: Inexpensive. Disadvantage: can be cumbersome and noisy depending on the model, be careful that there is no risk that a child or a pet will drop it head into the water! Click on the images to be directed to the merchant sites Method 3: fan ramp Marie bought a 40cm fan ramp from zoomalia for € 74 (excluding promotions), after having installed it on her 240L tank, her water has lost 8 degrees !! (at the base it is recommended to have this fan in 20 cm for a 200 liter in order to lose 3/4 degrees) brand Dohse Aquaristik. Valentin also bought a Dohse Aquaristik brand fan and this allowed him to maintain a temperature of 17 degrees in mid season, for a room that was at 20/22 degrees. In the " Tutorials " section of the site you also have Laetty and Fabrice who share with you the manufacture of their homemade fan ramps. No more excuses for letting your kitties bathe in hot soup! Method 4: Mobile air conditioner (or fixed) The advantage of such a purchase is that the whole family will enjoy the freshness of your room. The downside being the higher cost and the space taken up by a mobile air conditioner, you can find it on different ad sites but also in DIY stores, be careful not to be confused with an air cooler that uses an air conditioner. water tank system to be filled regularly on which a blower sends an air automatically refreshed by the soaked towel. This system costs around 50 € used and 100 € new, it is effective in lowering the temperature of the room by two or even 3 degrees. But without comparison with an air conditioning. Method 5: Cooling unit There are some from 100 € (at the cheapest) to 1400 € (and probably even more). Before you buy, ask the seller about cooling because some small (usually characterized by low wattage) coolers do not cool the water enough. So more units are needed to achieve the same effect, which a larger one could easily do. How does this device work? First, the water is pumped through the heat exchanger, where the cold compressed gas flows. This compressed gas is there to take heat from the water in an aquarium. The heat is caught in the compressor again and the pressure drops. Finally, the heat is taken in a radiator. A fan sucks in the new air and lets hot air out of the cooler. This was taken from another article on the website: www.aqua-fish.net/articles/refroidisseur-pour-aquarium It is possible to run them non-stop, however this is not recommended. They are like refrigerators; They don't cool down all the time (it's naturally automated). Size doesn't matter. It's all in wattage and efficiency, and throughput. For example, compare these two coolers: Pacific Coast CL-85 micro chiller 1/4 HP Oceanic Aquarium Chiller The output of the first is 85 watts. 360 -720 liters per hour is the optimum flow. The dimensions are: 4 "x 4 3/4" x 7 1/2 ". The second flow rate is between 2137.5 and 3600 liters per hour. The dimensions are: 13 x 17 x 17.31. The difference should be clear. More gph means more wattage and space. While I don't want to prefer any manufacturer, Oceanic seems to be very good. However, even Mercedes-Benz sometimes produces a car that shows issues after being used. Take your decision based on price, warranty, and validity available. Benefits : Coolers make the temperature stable effortlessly. This results in happier fish. Please read at the beginning of this article to understand why some fish just need a cooler. If you are going on vacation, you will not have to worry about overheating your aquarium (s). Disadvantages: Wattage is not the best. Consumption can be significant in terms of energy. How to get a discount? It is so easy; Ask for it! When you buy something for more than 200 €, ask for a better price! Do not hesitate, it is your money. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. And finally compare the different brands on the market, ask questions.

JULIEN GOIN VETERINAIRE NAC Hypoalbuminemia Julien GOIN veterinarian NAC In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Veterinary Clinic of 1001 paws 45, rue du Temple 45170 NEUVILLE AUX BOIS 02 38 75 97 90 https://www.clinique1000pattes.fr/nos-equipes/lequipe-de-neuville-aux-bois/veterinaire-nac-julien-goin/ In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Julien Goin specialist NAC had to treat an axolotl undergoing an effusion of liquid. "A small photo of Titi, an axolotl who came to the clinic for an abdominal effusion problem (abnormal accumulation of fluid in the belly). Titi was entitled to an abdominal ultrasound, and was able to return home after a small" emptying "to relieve him!" In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "We punctured all the liquid (here is the corresponding photo of the entire punctured volume). Analysis of the liquid showed nothing (liquid having the same density as water, without inflammatory element), abdominal ultrasound Neither. A blood test is planned soon. He has been dewormed for the moment (indeed, one of the possible causes is hypoalbuminemia: blood protein deficiency causing blood plasma to leak into the abdominal cavity). Thank you to Veterinary Doctor Julien Goin for this sharing. Do not forget that the minor ailments of your axolotls can be treated at home but only professionals are authorized for more important cases!

Comment cela fonctionne-t-il ? Explications et accompagnement Haut de page METAMORPHOSIS My axolotl is undergoing a metamorphosis, how can I support it so that it can live its new earthly life happily? First of all, the causes of a metamorphosis: Genetic cause: thyroid stimulated on certain strains for experimental purposes, it is assumed that progenies (more frequent in Germany) are brought to mutate even under perfect conditions of maintenance. Possible trigger: an environment that has become hostile: dirty, hot water, little oxygen, little water, etc. But we must not forget that it is not as simple for the axolotl as for the other urodeles, the genetic cause remains the first. Note that Ambystoma Andersoni, cousin of axolotl is more prone to mutate. PHOTO What is metamorphosis? The dorsal veil decreases until it completely disappears, the four legs lengthen and thicken in order to prepare for terrestrial gravity; the filaments then the gills disappear completely, the skin sheds and thickens, mobile eyelids appear. Here is our Ambystoma Mexicanum ready to face life on earth. NEVER ATTEMPT TO FORCE A MUTATION 80% SUCCUMBENT AND FOR THOSE WHO SURVIVE THEIR LENGTH OF LIFE DECREASES FROM 15/20 YEARS TO 5/6 YEARS. THE TERRARIUM: A terrarium measuring 90 x 50 x 40 (100 x 40 x 30) centimeters is a minimum for an adult couple. The substrate will be composed of 50% blond peat without fertilizer and 50% "plantation soil" of Exo Terra, a mixture allowing to maintain a high hygrometry (humidity) and to plant the terrarium properly. This substrate is laid out over a thickness of ten centimeters (minimum), the whole being covered with dead leaves from local undergrowth (cleaned and microwaved to disinfect them). You can install very soft foam such as spaigne, which can be found in damp undergrowth. A small basin is placed in the terrarium, with a low water height (five centimeters). Temperatures / Lighting / Hygrometry: The metamorphosed axolotl lives without concern at room temperature (14/24 ° C), but does not appreciate strong heat. It must be ensured that it can bury itself to cool itself. Here is an axolotl still in the water but metamorphosed, its new owner is preparing a terrarium for it. Plants are welcome in the universe of the loulou, if you want a well planted environment and as natural as possible you will still need a UV lamp with low radiation: uvb 2% and uva 10% directed in a specific area if he wishes to land there. In addition, so that the plants can grow properly, either position the terrarium near a window or if this is not possible use artificial lighting. The humidity will be between 70% and 80%, it can be "drier" but it will always be necessary to ensure that the animals have a water basin available. The terrarium will be sprayed daily or every other day. Here are some examples of terrarium layout: FOOD: This species is quite voracious, so be careful of overfeeding. Carnivorous, it feeds on different preys, which will be varied as much as possible for the sake of a good nutritional supply: earthworms, potting soil, hive moth, mealworms (if the head is crushed, locusts, etc. foods that were previously prohibited for many are now allowed. An individual is fed a good quantity every three days. Collect the waste well so that it does not rot. All preys are sprinkled with calcium. Since a source of UV is present, the preys will not be sprinkled with vitamin D3 (unless no UV lamp in the terra). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. REPRODUCTION: It takes place in water, the young have a very good chance of metamorphosis in their turn but not enough feedback on these reproductions to establish ratios. METAMORPHOSIS IN 20 DAYS Metamorphosed but why? Some might think that poor maintenance is the cause of a metamorphosis, but in reality lowering the water level and raising the temperature of the water will only kill your pet. An injection of hormones can make it evolve in terrestrial, but strongly discouraged, this test is so exhausting for the animal that it does not always survive, moreover its life expectancy is reduced to 5 years. No really known cause for the metamorphosed, however a genetic track is considered. Some axos have been mixed with other cousins to obtain certain colors, so these mixtures promote metamorphosis. Know that if an axo has to metamorphose, nothing will prevent it. This most often occurs around 17cm, in any case after reaching more than 20 cm, it is unusual for it to undergo metamorphosis. How a Metamorphosis Works (This article is based entirely on my personal experience with my axo metamorphosis, so if you're in the case of a metamorphosis, you may not have the same experience as I. Some axolotls metamorphose more or less quickly than others.) In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. First day I discovered my axo which had its back veil greatly reduced. In the doubt of an illness, I isolated him in a quarantine tank to check if he was eating normally and had no other symptoms. He had also refused to eat for a few days. I also observed that these eyes "stood out", indeed an eyelid was being formed for the preparation for an earthly life. Terrarium, yes but which one? You can opt for a tank, an aquarium or a terrarium according to your tastes and your budget. Let's take a look at the advantages and disadvantages of each. Widely used for amphibians of all kinds, it is perfect for a metamorphosed axo. It will have 5 closed sides, and the front side open with a window that will open and serve as a door. Amphibians being fearful by nature, it is preferable that they are not locked in a terrarium entirely made of so-called "open" glass, they need the closed sides that they feel safe without seeing everything that is happening in them. the room. The terrarium must be waterproof, because it will need to be humidified regularly, and must have ventilation to avoid fungi. advantages: sold in the trade already prepared, you will not have any "work" to do on it to adapt it to the axo. disadvantages: I do not see any for my part. Aquarium: Being adapted to aquatic life, you will need to modify it for terrestrial life. However if you only had one axo and it morphs it will save you money, you will already have a place to install it. Equipped with a cover it will be ideal because it happens that the metamorphosed escape. pros: It's easier to find a cheap aquarium, you may already have one and therefore don't have to invest in another terra. These windows will allow you to observe your animal from all sides and sometimes when it is buried. disadvantages: it only has the glass front and therefore the animal may feel in danger, so you will see it less than if it were in a terrarium. The door would therefore be the cover, it can frighten the animal. And you will have to from the top rather than from the front. Aeration is necessary, it is difficult to install one with a completely closed container. Tank: Identical to the aquarium but without a cover. advantages: if you feel like a handyman, you will like to arrange it. They are often lower than aquariums, because the height will no longer matter for the axo, it will be mainly burrowing. disadvantages: you will have to make the cover yourself with cleats and a mesh or mosquito net. Similar to the aquarium, it does not have closed sides, and its door will also be at the top, all these elements tend to stress the axo. So in summary, the terrarium being the perfect solution, the aquarium being the ideal and the tank the most restrictive but not bad either, make your choice. The size of the terrarium should be 80 cm long and 35/40 cm wide. The height does not matter, a minimum of 20 cm is recommended. Facilities: The substrate to begin with will require a height of at least 10cm of substrate as it will like to bury itself. You will have the choice between coconut humus, peat, amphibian soil without fertilizer and soil from your garden if it does not contain any products. We will add forest moss on top, previously cleaned and soaked for 24 hours so that the small insects that could have remained in it are no longer there. You will find dry ones in pet stores, but I recommend real fresh and green, it looks more natural and pretty. Do not take sphagnum moss, because it could ingest it and make an occlusion. You can also put a carpet of dead oak leaves, previously microwaved in order to kill any bacteria. The meta having become a burrower, think about setting up a cave, a hiding place, a cork bark, in which it can hide and dig. If you want to create a completely natural environment, you can add fern-type plants (bought in garden centers, because those from forests are too large and do not hold), and small plants that live fairly well with high humidity. Most important, a water point. It should be large enough for the axo to swim in it completely, but not too deep, because it is no longer aquatic and no longer swims. You will need a new plant sprayer, as each day you will need to mist the area to keep it moist, but not soggy. Lights and temperature Light Lighting is not absolutely necessary, but it is preferable to put one. A led lamp will be perfect, in order to create a day / night cycle for the animal. As in the aquatic state, it will appreciate less light, so do not take one that will light too brightly, or flashy colors. White or yellow will be perfect. Try to light up during the same hours of sunshine as your home. On average 11h per day in spring, 12h in summer, 9h in autumn and 8h in winter seems a good compromise. Temperature and hibernation It will always stay in low temperatures, no more than 25 ° C. As for many amphibians and reptiles, it will be necessary to envisage a period of hibernation of two months, and to lower the temperature to 5 ° C. You can prepare a smaller hibernation tank with 10 cm of substrate, leaves and hiding places and take this box down to the cellar for example. It will bury itself and will not feed. Hibernation will allow your animal to live longer. Hibernation will also be necessary for the reproduction of your animal, although it is strongly discouraged. It will be necessary to stop feeding the animal a few days before making it hibernate, so that its digestive system is empty. Food His new diet will be composed entirely of insects. You will therefore have to breed some of them, and feed them within 48 hours before giving them to the axo, otherwise they will have no nutritional value. You can also release earthworms in your terra, your axo will feed on them from time to time. Woodlice will also be welcome, they will feed on rubbish in your land, which will allow you to change your substrate less often. You will also have to choose how to feed your animal, that is to say release the insects alive in the terra, which will push your animal to keep its wild instinct and therefore you will not have "links / contacts" with it, it will therefore be less visible. , or feed it with the tongs, which will allow it to no longer be afraid of you, to see it going out to come and eat, to be sure that it is eating well. List of insects to donate Crickets, cockroaches and locusts (remove their legs to avoid injury), will be its main consumption. Mealworms, morio worms, beehive moth, once a month, because they are very rich and will be used as sweets. You can also try the beef heart once a month. To avoid !! Insects such as bedbugs, gendarmes. It is important to vary their diet as much as possible. But even with this strain, you will need to sprinkle her food once a week with calcium, which you can easily find in pet stores or at a nac vet. The frequency of feeding will be about 3-4 times a week. Way of life The life expectancy of your animal is very markedly reduced, going from 15 years (on average) in the aquatic state, to only 5 years in the terrestrial state. Your animal will not be very active and visible during the day, it will be buried most of the time. Do not have fun looking for it, it will only increase their fear of you and increase their stress. It may not be visible for a week or two because it is buried. If you can get your pet used to being. Fed with the pincers, once this habit has been acquired, tap your pincers a little against the terra so that it will associate the noise of the pincers with the feeding and as and when it will know how to register this, it will come of its own accord to the carries his meal. Like any amphibian, it has fragile skin and is very sensitive to bacteria, which is why you should not handle your animal. Reproduction A metamorphosed axo can reproduce, it is strongly advised not to make them reproduce because their descendants will have a very good chance of metamorphosis too. However, if you want to do this you will have to make them hibernate, like many amphibians, it is hibernation that causes reproduction afterwards if your meta. is a female she is not likely to retain eggs, however if you do not wish to take this risk do not hibernate her. I will therefore conclude this article with some photos of my little Optimus (who is no longer of this world today). Article and photos by Alecsandra.

Comment et pourquoi choisir un type de filtration plutôt qu'un autre ? Haut de page quelle filtration? quelle filtration? FILTRATION Different pumps at the bottom of the page as well as filter media There are 5 main types of filter: -1 - the box filter or angular filter : it is used less and less. The box filter is modulated by an air pump, which circulates the water through the filtering mass and at the same time ensures efficient aeration of the aquarium (rejection of bubbles on the surface). These filters are certainly very inexpensive but only the largest models could be suitable for the goldfish tank. Biological filtration is correct; on the other hand, the mechanical filtration (suction of the largest particles) is poor. Finally, they are very ugly. This filter is a good candidate for the quarantine tank (easy bacteria seeding). -2- The compact internal filter : economical and very popular, this filter can be used in tanks up to a good hundred liters for the largest models. It is fitted with a swivel nozzle or not, with variable flow rate (it is better) or not, and now more and more often equipped with a "venturi" system to ventilate the aquarium thanks to small bubbles. Avoid "mini internal filters" for goldfish as they were designed for nano (miniature) aquariums and therefore do not have the capacity to process waste produced by axolotls. In conclusion, provided you do not choose a model that is too small, the compact internal filter is quite well suited to modest volumes (see the question of the flow a little lower). -3- the under-gravel filter : very popular in the past, this filter is now replaced by the compact internal filter, which is more practical. This inexpensive and discreet filter is only suitable for modest volumes and requires the prior installation of perforated plastic plates placed slightly sloping under the aquarium floor (recommended gravel thickness above: 75-80mm ; gravel diameter: 3-5mm). The water is then sucked through the ground and then ejected into the tank thanks to an air column (vertical tube) generated by an air pump (aerator) and / or a water pump as appropriate. It is the gravel which in fact acts as filtering material here: particles and organic waste are attracted under the substrate (mechanical filtration) and then are degraded thanks to the action of bacteria naturally present in the soil (biological action). However, this filtration has a number of drawbacks: it must be placed first when setting up the aquarium and cannot then be removed without having to remove everything; the biological efficiency is excellent but the mechanical efficiency is poor; maintenance (suction of waste from the bottom) must be very regular, otherwise the filter risks seeing its flow rate slow down or even become clogged; finally, this filter is not well suited to the growth of plants because its action disturbs the roots and any nutritious soil is prohibited (it is always possible to have plants that do not require rooting, such as Anubia or Java fern ). Not suitable for an aquarium with axolotls. -4- the "settling " filter is a plastic block with 2 or 3 compartments. A water pump, located in the last compartment of the filter sucks and circulates the water through the filtering mass (for example filter wadding, filter ceramics, synthetic foam cubes, etc.) to reject it purified at the surface of the tank . The biological efficiency is better than for the compact internal filter because the volume of filter material is more generous. It is an efficient, economical, easy to maintain filtration method well suited to medium volumes, the main drawback being that it is bulky and not very discreet (the heating can however be hidden there). Another system also allows you to make your own decanter, but for this you need a piece of furniture that can be closed to put the tank or aquarium containing the pump and filter media underneath: -5- the external filter is an option certainly a little more expensive but devilishly effective for medium to large volumes (from a hundred liters for the most compact models). The external filter is also very versatile (the choice of filter mass is very wide: foams, ceramic noodles, activated carbon ...) The two pipes (inlet and outlet) of the filter are very easy to hide, behind plants by example. It is necessary to conceal the equipment (in the cabinet) and to ensure from time to time that the pipes are watertight. ( You will find links to buy these filters at attractive prices also at the bottom of the page ) Another important point : filtration on activated carbon is possible with axolotls but only after drug treatment. Indeed, the principle of charcoal is to absorb these molecules but the trouble is that releases them, which is why it is of no interest to have them in your filter permanently because it will be able to destroy the bacteria. , worms) you place your charcoal in the filtration and then leave it for five days, after which it releases all the products. The pump should filter at least 3 x the aquarium liter. So for a 200 liters you will need a pump with a power of 600 Liters / Hour. To calculate the volume (liter) of an aquarium we measure the facade x the depth and height. It will of course be a gross volume because there will be decoration, plant sand and then we do not necessarily fill up to the top. Filter flow rate and maintenance Whatever filter is chosen, the hourly filtration flow rate must be 3 times greater than the volume of water in the aquarium. More and more filters are now equipped with a variable flow rate, which makes it possible to adapt the flow rate to your needs. When the flow decreases markedly, the foams or other filter media are then rinsed, but never with tap water because the foam contains essential purifying bacteria which are very sensitive to chlorine. If the aquarium filter is equipped with only one foam (compact internal filter), care should be taken before changing the foam (usually after a few months) to avoid sacrificing the entire bacterial colony all at once: either by rinsing twice. We will only change half at a time and the second half two weeks later. The old block will thus have the time necessary to colonize the new one and enough bacteria will be preserved! Important: the aquarium filter must run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. After a 3 hour shutdown, the colony is largely considered dead because, no longer being stirred and oxygenated, the bacteria die. It can be useful to have battery-powered bubblers available in the event of a power failure or to operate the pump in a bucket, the important thing being that there is always a stirring carried out in the filter media allowing the life of bacteria in also bringing oxygen. Efficient biological filtration: The more the filtering mass contained in the aquarium filter (for example block of blue foam, lava, ceramic noodles, pozzolana, etc.) has a large filtration surface, the more effective the biological filtration. This pleads in favor of a filter of suitable size for the axolotl tank because they are big "polluters". Here is an ideal and inexpensive bacteria fixative. We buy these bags in garden centers and DIY stores. If your filtration system has just broken down, all is not lost: put the filter media (foams, ceramic noodles, etc. in a bucket with the "juice contained in the pump and aerate using a bubbler until replacement If there is a power cut, the same operation with a battery-powered bubbler as for a move elsewhere. The pozzolana is used to make pretty alleys. These are crushed volcanic rocks. Around € 6 for a 15 / 20kg bag. Remember to rinse it well then place some in tights (more practical for cleaning) and add them to the filter media of your pump. Its capacity to fix bacteria is superior to those of ceramic noodles (but not for the same price) for tanks accommodating fish you can place it under your substrate It is a fully biological filtration. The impurities are stopped by the foam, they fall at the foot of the foam and are sucked up during daily cleaning. The foam is never or very very little rinsed. About once a year. The foam surface to be used is to be calculated according to the liter and the volume of the pump. The slower the filtration, the more efficient it will be. There are very few elements that make up the filtration. A basic submersible pump of 2 to 3x the volume of the tank and a block of foam (medium blue foam or similar at least 3cm thick ). Depending on the surface of the foam, it is placed in a corner or across the width of the aquarium. Considering my litrage I had to place it on the width. It's not pretty at first but over time the foam becomes more discreet . For the minimum size of the foam surface we take 3X the volume of the pump, in my case 700x3 = 2100cm2 BUT we are looking to have a ratio lower than 10 imperatively , the lower it will be, the slower the filtration will be and therefore effective since bacteria have more time to do their job. A ratio of 0 corresponds to a zero filtration rate. The calculation of the ratio is to be done like this. V being the filtration speed (flow per square cm of foam) V = (liter X pump flow) / (6 X foam surface) = For example my Aqua: V = (260 X 700) / (6 X 2100) = 14.44 ... 14.44 ... being above 10 I have to enlarge the foam surface. After various conversations with myself I opted for V = (260 x 700) / (6 x 4500) = 6.74 ... So I need 4500cm2 foam. Being limited to 50 in height I must take 90 in length to obtain 4500cm2 Hence the position on the width of the aquarium. It was a usual break-in. A beautiful brown mass settles in the filtration part, it must not be removed. The pump is itself almost never rinsed, when the flow drops at worst every 6 to 8 months lol and again. In fact I think it's the exact middle ground between classic filtration and low tech. Since we let the filtration live by just cleaning the tank. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Article by Bou Roggero-Claudon Elements of filtration: In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Mousses - wadding (perlon) - ceramic noodles Wadding (perlon) Fine filtration of small particles Foams, medium grain filtration Ceramic noodles, excellent support for bacteria Click on the images to be directed to a merchant site 1000L / hour 1400L / hour 2000L / hour