RESEARCH

L'axolotls comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut etre blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? ABSCESS Share Abscesses often have the initial cause of a micro injury which then became infected, forming a swollen pouch. The axolotl will no longer be hungry, quite simply because the wound will be painful, hindering the absorption of any food. Very often it is located on the head of the axolotl (frequent injury in the mouth which may be caused by ingestion such as shrimp, or a pebble, etc.). An abscess "matures" then eventually "bursts". It is advisable to isolate your loulou in a hospital tank before and leave it in a methylene blue bath (or Esha 2000) to disinfect the wound after bursting of this abscess. You can also have it pierced by a veterinarian, but above all, do not improvise yourself in this role !!! The process can last a month, between the appearance of the abscess and its bursting. If this has taken place at home, check that there is no superinfection because antibiotics would be necessary. The axolotl will regain its appetite once the injury is no longer bothering it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Check the possible cause of this injury so that "the incident does not happen again (decorations, food, etc.). The axolotl before its abscess. An abscess appears on the head of the axo. He no longer feeds because of the pain of the inflammation. D + 4 The abscess begins to decrease and be less inflamed. Thanks to Léa Gauville for the photos of his loulou. ALLIANCE VETERINARY CLINIC IN BORDEAUX The Alliance veterinary clinic also treats axolotls! Yeh! This clinic is located in Bordeaux: 8, boulevard Godard - 33000 Bordeaux Phone: 05 56 39 15 48 http://www.veterinaire-alliance.fr/ “Lucky, this female axolotl was presented to us because she had not been eating for two weeks. Clinical examination revealed the presence of oral masses. The puncture and cytological analysis revealed that these masses were abscesses. Lucky was put on antibiotics Fish and amphibians can be treated like cats and dogs! We wish Lucky a good recovery! " This axolotl is that of Anne Sophie Ciliberto who kindly accepted like the veterinary clinic to share this information with you, not to self-medicate but to guide your veterinarian if he is not specialized and that possibly he can contact the Clinique Alliance de Bordeaux, but also so that you know that this case can happen to one of your axolotls. The vet gave him an injection of anti-inflammatory drugs. His treatment is spread over 2 weeks. It must therefore remain isolated. The treatment is to be administered either in water or directly into the mouth. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association - JAVMA detooSrnsp7fhh483eim0é1l5i4v9 f1r19mc3clr4 · Le neuroblastome olfactif doit être pris en compte dans le diagnostic différentiel des axolotls avec des masses palatales intraorales. Ce rapport décrit la première application de la radiothérapie pour le traitement d'un neuroblastome olfactif dans un axolotl. L'axolotl est mort 3,5 mois après la fin de la radiothérapie; l'évaluation post mortem n'a montré aucun signe de néoplasie. https://jav.ma/3oImDv1 Flo, The Exotic Vet - Dr Modesto detooSrnsp7fhh483eim0é1l5i4v9 f1r19mc4clr4 · Comment commencer la semaine d’une meilleure manière!! Mon dernier article vient de paraître dans le prestigieux Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association - JAVMA !! Voilà de quoi enrichir un peu la littérature sur cette espèce pour qui peu de données sont encore publiées! Merci à Clinique vétérinaire Oncovet et plus particulièrement à mon co-auteur le Dr Jérôme Benoit pour son aide précieuse et la réalisation des radiothérapies (souvenir de visite au Centre le matin très tôt!!). Petit à petit, les NAC ont aussi le droit à une médecine oncologique de qualité!...et nous travaillons pour améliorer leur soins et avoir plus de données sur le sujet chaque jour!

Il est tres simple de faire éclore des nauplies d'artémias, d'élever des daphnies ou microvers, voyons comment à l aide de différentes méthodes. Haut de page eclosoir Haut de page eclosoir Haut de page eclosoir eclosoir Salt ratio (dishwasher or table-top) for water for hatching of the brine shrimp eggs: 3 teaspoons for 500 ml of water. NAUPLIES D'ARTEMIAS BREEDING Share We will discuss here the different methods to give birth to nauplia at home, in order to feed your juvenile axolotls. Below you will find two sellers of live food, methods of raising your daphnia and at the bottom of the page your microvers. Nafplions (1st stage of artemia Artemias (adult stage) First of all, get artemia eggs or more precisely cysts. Their quality is vital for the success of the project. In the juvenile food section you have a seller of top quality cysts Avoid brine shrimp mixes. In other words the mixture of salt and cysts (eggs) their performance is poor compared to the mixtures that you will make yourself. Dosages: 3 teaspoons of dishwasher salt for one of the cysts (or whatever else we rinse the nauplii before distributing them) personally I have always used this one with very good results; for 0.5 liter of water. The doses being set, let's move on to the different methods: (Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site if a replacement basket is needed) Disc hatcher (Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site) ideal for beginners because really the easiest for harvesting, it is necessary to have two in order to launch one as soon as the other makes its first nauplia, be careful: the shells of cysts are totally indigestible and quickly kill the loulous . ( Explanatory video section social networks then youtube ) The artemias jbl kit gives a good quantity of nauplia it requires a bubbler. Many use the tap below to open it on a sieve (perpetual coffee filter or sieve at 4 € in pet stores) To make your own hatcheries, here are two fairly widespread processes that have been tested for years: Use a plastic bin that has contained ice, for example, to avoid monopolizing a tupperware It must be translucent, it must be blackened on its half and its cover (black tape, marker). You also need a piece of foam (large holes) which will serve as a partition in order to have the cysts (eggs on one side and let the nauplia once hatched go through the foam to the other side (attracted by the source). light that you will have positioned) it must not exceed in height in order to allow the lid to be closed. Just place a light source on the translucent side and the brine shrimp pass through the moss towards the light. You have to put a black cover on the box, that goes without saying. It is better to start several of them two days apart so that you have brine shrimp available every day. The dosage is 30 g per liter of water. Basket-shaped sieve click on the image to be directed to a merchant site Always rinse the collected nauplia in the sieve in order to remove the salt which as you know is harmful to axolotls (and then they are freshwater animals ...) Many use simple tubs with bubblers and sugar at the end. It is necessary to disconnect the bubbler 1/4 of an hour, half an hour before the harvest so that the cysts separate from the nauplia and attract the latter with a torch or flashlight. And yes, they are drawn to the light. Then one siphons with a pipe for bubbler or a syringe with flexible pipe at the end. You can keep them a little longer by feeding the nafplions with Mikrozell ou ici >> oeufs d'artémias LIVE FOOD PURCHASE Juvenile food purchase For those who are interested you can order from Fred: Shipping costs are included! Cysts 5 gr: 2 euros Cysts 10 gr: 3 euros Cysts 30 gr: 8 euros (enough to raise a laying of 10 juveniles) Cysts 50 gr: 13 euros Cysts 100 gr: 27 euros Cysts 200 gr: 54 euros In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Catappa: 4 euros for 12 sheets (10 paid and 2 free) The following prices are to be requested from the seller, he will adapt to the quantity: Marine and freshwater phytoplankton, Marine copepods, paddy rice for infusoria, Catappa (leaves and seeds), microvers, Vinegar eels, alder fruits, grindals. You can contact him via his mailbox telling him that it is from Nathalie anubis38400@hotmail.com so you will have a few extra grams;) BREEDING DAPHNIES & PURCHASING LIVE FOOD This article was shared by Olivier. He can also provide you with strains of daphnia (prices and details at the end of the article). Daphnia: After some research on the net and translation of the text, here is a method for breeding Daphnia. Daphnia are also known as "water bugs" or "water fleas" due to their jerky movement. They live in fresh water and are really easy to grow at home. Daphnia can be given regularly to your fish to vary the diet, or seasonally to promote reproduction. They can be used as food for both small and large fish. Unlike dried or frozen foods that are not eaten, Daphnia do not pollute the water. They stay alive in the aquarium until a fish eats them. Growing Daphnia at home is economical and will provide you with a constant source of living food without the risk of transmitting disease. To start your own Daphnia culture, you must purchase a starter culture from your local fish store, aquarium club, online store, or from an individual. Place the container you plan to use for growing Daphnia under lighting. Artificial light works just as well as sunlight, so you can for example place it under a lamp in your basement. Add water to a container and pour in a strain of Daphnia. Add very weak bubbling, just to pierce the surface and prevent the water from stagnating and depleting oxygen. Maintain the water temperature around 20-24 C °. Mixing a packet of dry yeast with a cup of soy flour will provide you with a great food source for your Daphnia. Stir 1 / 8-1 / 4 teaspoon of this mixture into a cup of hot water and pour it into your Daphnia container. This creates a cloud in the water. It is not necessary to feed your Daphnia again until they have filtered and consumed all the yeast flour (ie when the water has turned clear again). Avoid overfeeding, because if you pollute the water, the daphnia will die. A filtration system should not be used in the breeding container. Small, regular water changes are the best way to maintain water quality. You can combine water changes with harvest by using a siphon to suck up some of the water and filter through a dip net. The water collected can then be replaced with a new one and the landing net will be filled with Daphnia for your fish. You will also need to remove the deposit from the bottom of the container every two weeks. Use a sieve to sort the daphnia by size. This way you will have the big Daphnia for the big fish, the small Daphnia for the small fish and the tiny daphnia for the fry. Here are some foods that you can use to feed your daphnia: green water, yeast, active yeast, soy or wheat flour, infusoria, bacteria, the most used are yeast and green water. To promote the development of bacteria and microorganisms, you can add (in a sock or stocking), a small handful of horse manure or potting soil (this is not mandatory) in the water. Here is an interesting link: http://www.cerclaqua09.cerclaqua.com/eaudouce/articles/daphnies.php A small video that must be translated for the recipe: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=bVGEZX7BTPM Example of a recipe for feeding Daphnia: 1 part of spirulina 1 part rice flour 1 part green pea powder If the breeding of daphnia is planned to be carried out indoors use water from your aquarium. Place this water in a container on a window sill in bright light. The water will turn green in a few days. To maintain green water indoors, you just need to put on intense lighting for 12 to 14 hours a day and add a few drops of liquid fertilizer per week (2 or 3 drops no more). If your Daphnia breeding is intended to be done outdoors, there is no need to wait for the water to turn green. Outdoor breeding is simple: - A large container with non-chlorinated water without fish, or better still water from an aquarium (during a water change, for example). You can use a trash can or a plastic drum, a small preformed basin, an old bathtub ... - A strain of Daphnia and let nature take its course. Rearing daphnia is easier outdoors than in an aquarium. The downside is that in winter the stock is almost zero. Personally, I have the opportunity to be able to breed outdoors, so I have never tried indoors ... I do not distribute any food. I let nature take its course and the daphnia thrive very well all summer. In winter, even if the container freezes, do not empty it. The slime contains 'lasting' eggs which will wait for favorable conditions to hatch and give birth to a new generation. WARNING If you want to bring food to your daphnia, you should not put too much of it, so as not to pollute the water and lose everything. PURCHASE Available: - Vinegar eels 3 euros per strain - Micro-towards 3 euros per strain - To grindal 3 euros per strain - Daphnia magna 3 euros per strain - Tetra Discus pellets 6 euros per 1/2 Liter (150gr), 10 euros per Liter (300gr) - TetraMin straws 4 euros per 1/2 Liter (100gr), 7 euros per Liter (200gr) - Artemia cysts (to hatch) 3.50 euros for 10gr - Orange planorbes 1 euro for 10 - Neocaridina davidi Sakura red shrimps 2 euros each or 15 euros for 10 For all orders and information: olivier.c28630@gmail.com BREEDING OF MICRO WORMS AND DAPHNIA For first age juveniles: Micro worms The breeding is very simple and takes place in jars (jam type) with at the bottom a good cm of a mixture of oats and brewer's yeast (culture medium), the small worms will then migrate on the walls. from the jar where it will be very easy to take them with a damp brush that I rinse in a small pot (of glass yoghurt) filled with water they will fall to the bottom then I take them and distribute them with a pipette. Here is the recipe for the culture medium I use: 4 volumes of oatmeal 1 volume of brewer's yeast (it can be replaced by a packet of dehydrated Baker's yeast, the medium is 3 times more productive, but lasts 2 times less) 3 volumes of water. https://youtu.be/SrWSdxx8qEo We can also use for their culture mashed potato flakes, bread, couscous semolina ... Pour a good cm of the mixture at the bottom of the pot, introduce the strain on the surface, stir lightly, close the pot and drill 3 or 4 small holes to allow them to breathe. Transplanting takes place after 3 to 4 weeks. Take from the old strain well 3 teaspoons and inoculate the new culture pot. Then add about once a week the oatmeal or mash, remembering to moisten the medium to allow the development of micro worms. It's time to make another pot when it's almost full In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. For juveniles from one month old, live bloodworms are found in the silt of ponds and ponds and obviously in pet shops and fishing stores. they can be stored either in a newspaper in a cool place at the bottom of the regrigerator, or in aquarium water changed every two days in a pot at the bottom of the refrigerator. Daphnia Pulex and Magna: First of all, you have to get a stump, the former are smaller than the latter. Then in green water or the water of one of your aquarium put your daphnia it will then suffice to feed them with Hobby brand infusoria protogen , we can also leave them outdoors only in a container of water, the algae will be enough to feed them., or even mikrozell as if to feed the nafplions. Bloodworms have no nutritional value, so we use them instead to move our juveniles to a more substantial food after the artemia nauplia and we mix them with the 3 mm pellets in order to get them used to the taste. of the latter which ensure an adequate supply of proteins, minerals, vitamins and lipids.

L'axolotl inspire les artistes, en voici quelques exemples très différents ! Haut de page dessin dessin Share AXOLOTL AND ART AXOLOTL INSPIRES ... http://maudeux.canalblog.com/archives/2010/09/08/19011015.html Axolotl cartoon Thanks to Maliki for sharing his comic on our site. Here is the link and you can also consult his other comics. http://maliki.com/strips/axolotl-2

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Isoler un axolotl peut s'avérer nécessaire, pour des soins ou pour arranger un souci dans son aquarium. Voici comment procéder. Haut de page Taille aqua Taille aqua INSULATING AN AXOLOTL PREPARE REST WATER Share When we talk about putting an axolotl in "tupp", we must not interpret small food tupperware or it can barely turn over! A plastic bin is more suitable (clothes bin for example). Nathalie Chassagne Still water or not? First of all, it is important to regularly consult this site http://social-sante.gouv.fr/sante-et-environnement/eaux/article/qualite-de-l-eau-potable in order to know precisely its parameters water from the tap. When we find ourselves with a free or total chlorine level of 0.03 mg / l, it is as much to say that it is not even useful to let your water stand! youpiiii !!! You will need to put Will in your infirmary tray if your water contains chloramine as it puts it in 15 days s evaporate and is very dangerous (chlorine mixed with ammonia ...) The conductivity also concerns us because it us indicates whether our water is well mineralized (hard) or little (soft). Obviously these are not the only data that interest us but if you want to refine all this you can for example contact me via the site or the group, by sending me your data. So now let's talk about standing water, do you know why? Because in this way the chlorine will be able to evaporate so here the duration of the rest depends on two factors: the rate of chlorine in your pipe water if it is very low 12 hours will suffice for others it will be 24 hours and for d 'other 48 h. If you use a bubbler, the stirring of the water accelerates the evaporation of the chlorine, if you had to wait 24 hours you will have to wait 6 to 10 hours maximum with a bubbler. You don't have still water and you absolutely need it now ?! Buy spring water that is available at Lidl stores. (no, I don't have any actions with them but at some point you have to name things clearly because many get lost and suddenly do stupid things). Either way it is always better to change the water asap, imagine you are in a garage with a car on the road, this carbon emission can kill you, the axolotl breathes in the water if it is polluted you can kill him, not necessarily immediately but his skin may present lesions (which we see more obviously in light colors), the kidneys will be insufficient, as much damage which may be irreversible, do not take these lightly. water changes. And above all, avoid putting them in a bin as much as possible, tupp. We see more and more people taking axolotls and then roaming them quietly , "the axolotl is in tupp everything is fine" uh ... no you do the prowling of your aquarium and then you take the axos. Think about them a little, be considerate. It's not a toy, a thing In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. (Click on the images to be redirected to the merchant site) To put or not a bubbler? Some axolotls do not appreciate it at all, others love it instead sticking. Beyond these considerations comfort here are the pros and cons of a bubbler: A well planted tank provides sufficient oxygen as well as the movements caused by the rejection of the filter. The fact of installing an aerator in the tank brings only little oxygen, on the other hand it favors the elimination of C02 which the plants need for their growth. and the bubbler aspires tobacco smoke (when smoking) cooking oil vapors etc. it also acidifies water :) brief c is just decorative. Summer in aquariums rising in temperature is useful, but in this case only at night when the plants, instead of rejecting oxygen as during the day, take it . Calculate the GH of mineral or spring water? GH = Calcium rate in mg per Liter / 7.1338 + Magnesium rate in mg per Liter / 4.3254 Example with this bottle of Evian GH = Calcium rate in mg per Liter / 7.1338 + Magnesium rate in mg per Liter / 4.3254 GH = 78 / 7.1338 + 24 / 4.3254 GH = 10.9338 + 5.5486 GH = 16.48 Montroucous water GH = Calcium rate in mg per Liter / 7.1338 + Magnesium rate in mg per Liter / 4.3254 GH = 2.4 / 7.1338 + 0.5 / 4.3254 GH = 0.3364 + 0.1155 GH = 0.45 !!! (almost osmosis therefore). Voici plusieurs marques d'eau conseillées en aquariophilie. Un gh minimum est indispensable sinon l'au s'avère trop douce pour nos axolotls. (1ère colonne)

L'axolotl comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut etre blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? ABNORMAL FLOTATION Share In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The axolotl floats on the surface, and has difficulty diving. It is often found on the back. We are talking about constant flotation, that is to say from morning to evening and for 24 to 48 hours. Because the axo is subject to aerophagia, do not worry if it floats temporarily.The treatment involves placing the animal in cold water (around 15 °, see 10 ° for more serious cases ), as the warmer water seems to make the problem worse. It is also necessary to put the animal on a diet, and no longer feed it for 1 to 2 weeks (on adults, but often a few days to a week are enough!). The axolotl can no longer touch the bottom, see being found on the back, he seems very stressed, which further increases the aerophagia. It is therefore advisable to put the animal in a few cm of water, to allow it to move on the ground, as it is used to. But as said previously this is not always necessary and it is especially necessary to find the causes of this stress. As a result, the evolution is positive, and the recovery is complete. File not finished yet, be patient. Personally, I have never had to isolate an axolotl for this, having a very planted aquarium, the loulou clings to the plants during the aerophagia episode and everything returns to normal in a few days. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Vet'eau-Ornament February 3 "This is Lilith the little axolotl. Axolotl are very endearing and interesting little animals. They are amphibians close to salamanders but which remain in the larval state all their lives. A bit like a tadpole that would never become a frog. Because of this, they breathe in water using external gills (which can be seen in the photo) and are very sensitive to the parameters of the water in which they live. Finally, these are animals that have many similarities with fish. Lilith had major flotation problems which prevented her from being able to stay on the bottom to rest. She is now in great shape 😉 " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "Different attacks can create flotation problems. For Lilith it was bloating, in relation to a strong parasitism. We helped her to exteriorize the gas so that she could rest, and calmly take her antiparasitic;) In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. When the case is too advanced, we use drugs to speed up the transit. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The antiparasitics that can be used in axos are generally the same as in other animals. They essentially depend on the type of parasite targeted (worms, type of worms, protozoa, leeches, etc.). For this it is absolutely necessary to make a coprology, because making a mistake can lead to large imbalances of flora, and in addition allow the explosion of the real parasite in play. The use of treatments without precise detection of pathogen requires experience. personal data, and due to the lack of bibliographic data in this species, these protocols cannot be disclosed. I therefore recommend (like any animal) to carry out a coprological analysis and to treat accordingly). " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. I thank Doctor Blanc for his availability and this precious information which will of course be able to help other veterinarians even if they are not specialized in axolotls, Dr Blanc is currently creating a remote support service for veterinarians wishing to take charge of fish (and aquatic amphibians as well). Veterinary service entirely dedicated to aquatic animal medicine including, of course, axolotl.

L'axolotls comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut etre blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? CHYTRIDIOMYCOSIS Share Self-medication is dangerous, a trained professional is best able to treat your loulou. The drugs named are only for your veterinarian. Photos under the text. Chytridiomycosis is a fatal infectious disease affecting amphibians (anurans, urodeles and gymnophiones). It is an emerging disease caused by the chytridiomycete Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis, which contributes to the decline of amphibian populations worldwide; In 2004, it already affected 30% of the world's amphibian species. “In less than thirty years, scientists estimate that more than 120 species have disappeared and 435 have greatly regressed” 3. In Europe, the first massive mortalities due to this fungus were first observed in Spain, then in France, Switzerland and Great Britain. However, we must not give in to paranoia in our aquariums, no risk UNLESS incorporating river plants, insects, tadpoles, frogs or other anurans, there indeed you can potentially infect your tank (s) and decimate your entire population ! Symptoms: Lethargy and desquamation of the skin (in juveniles a few cm, mycosis of the mouth). The amphibians in our rivers have become sensitive to it, probably because of the pollution which has deprived them of a significant part of their immunity. Mortalities of spotted salamander and alytic toad have been observed in the Pyrenees. A specialized veterinarian: "It's necessarily complicated, the majority of antifungals are contraindicated. We can use chloramphenicol which is an antibiotic but which seems to have an action on this fungus. But there can be side effects (aplasia, anemia) ... " Another also recommended an antibiotic: Itraconazole, fluconazol against Chytridiomycosis. So you can rely on this advice from your own veterinarian. But I remind you that this mushroom cannot arrive in your bin if you respect the principles mentioned above. At the beginning we can just see a dark spot in the mouth. The ends start to darken on the axolotls of light colors. The fungus spreads more and more so very quickly without treatment the outcome is fatal. On dark colors the ends turn white. Thanks to Valériane Fuchs for sharing her photos with Axolotls et Cie to help other members. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "As far as chytridiomycosis is concerned, there are currently two types. - Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis (Bd), which affects all kinds of amphibians all over the world - Batrachochytrium salamandrivorans which is responsible for mortalities in European salamanders. The "Bd" is worn without clinical signs by certain species of amphibians, but also by tadpoles. It only infects the keratinized areas of the skin (= only the beak, not vital, in tadpoles). There is a big problem with the disappearance of species in the wild. The problem in captivity can also be dramatic ... Doctor Sylvain Larrat 38 rue du Danemark, 56400 Brec'h Tel: 02 30 06 06 06 http://www.cliniqueveterinaire-benjaminfranklin.com/ . Exclusive NAC veterinarian, exotic animals, wildlife and aquatic life In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Diplomat of the American College of Zoological Medicine Associate Professor, Faculty of Veterinary Medicine, University of Montreal B. Franklin veterinary clinic, Auray, Brittany, France. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The animal can be a carrier without any clinical sign. So if we raise the juvenile from the egg and know that a single external element has never been brought into the aquarium, (such as plants, unboiled stones) no problem. On the other hand, if you buy, adopt an axolotl from a third party, nothing is guaranteed, unless you have the complete history of the individual. A microscopic Asian fungus is causing a major biodiversity crisis, the largest ever. It has caused an unprecedented decline among hundreds of amphibian species, devouring their skin to the point of causing cardiac arrest. An ecological disaster that went unnoticed for a long time. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. A fungus that devours the skin of frogs Batrachochytrium dendrobatidis belongs to the chytrid family, aquatic fungi that usually consume decaying organic matter. But, unlike its congeners, Bd attacks all living amphibians: frogs, salamanders, newts ... It devours their skin and causes scaling and deep ulcerations. As amphibians use their highly permeable skin to breathe, the infection eventually causes cardiac arrest . Its virulence is particularly high in certain species, where mortality can reach 100%. More than 30 species of Atelopus, small frogs from Central America, have been completely wiped out. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Global dissemination fostered by international exchanges Identified in 1998, the "Bd" nevertheless began its devastation in the 1970s. But it was in the 1980s that the epizootic peaked, especially on the American continent. Native to Asia, the fungus quickly spread to the whole world thanks to international trade . Europe seems to have been less affected, but according to the researchers, the disaster may have occurred before it was noticed on the continent: massive declines in amphibians did indeed take place in the 1950s and 1960s. Attributed at the time to the intensification of agriculture , they could actually have been caused by the pathogen. Curiously, the disease seems to have spared Asia, where it originates from. Researchers hypothesize that Asian amphibians were able to adapt to resist the pathogen. However, it is also possible that species are simply less well studied there. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. A new strain that decimates European salamanders Fortunately, the decline appears to be slowing in recent years. But of the 501 species in decline, barely 12% have started to recover, and 39% are still experiencing a decline. In addition, the fungus is emerging in new places so far untouched, such as Papua New Guinea or Madagascar. A new strain of the fungus, Batrachochytrium salamandrivorans, recently landed in Europe via the amphibian trade and appears particularly virulent in local salamanders. A 2017 Nature study thus showed a massive collapse of the affected populations. The United States and Canada have already adopted preventive measures, banning the importation of 201 species of salamanders. In Europe, the risk of another mass extinction cannot be ruled out. New strain !!! Source: https://www.futura-sciences.com/planete/actualites/zoologie-ce-champignon-pire-tueur-planete-75570/?fbclid=IwAR0C9XXbluGWAr9BmFpDpog8_Uqe1JWZravMe8TBDna5tcapAGlfgpCCAO

Encore un travail fabuleux effectué par nos vétérinaires, il s'agit cette fois d'une clinique de Seine Maritime ! Rétention d'oeufs. Egg retention CAS N ° 1 Anidoc 'Veterinary Clinic The Anidoc 'veterinary clinic is located in Ouville-la-rivère in Seine Maritime at 98 Impasse du Moulin 76680 Ouville-la-Rivière You can reach them on 02 35 83 02 10 or by email: contact@cliniqueveterinaire-anidoc.com The clinic also has a site: http://www.cliniqueveterinaire-anidoc.com/ In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "Sterilization of an axolotl female who was swimming sideways because of too many eggs in her abdomen. The axolotl being an amphibian, the anesthesia is initiated in water within an induction tank. Then, with a pump system, the water containing the anesthetic product is sucked in and irrigates the patient's gills out of the water. Everything went well. She is swimming normally today! " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Thank you to Clinique Anidoc 'for this sharing and for its incredible work! CAS N°1 Egg retention CAS N ° 2 Here is the story of ELodie Guillen, and more precisely that of Milli her axolotl: In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Description : Milli axolotl female aged 2 years In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Symptoms : The last laying she only came out the transparent pockets which envelop the eggs and was abnormally large. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. First visit to the NAC Clinic in Toulouse with Dr. Feix, he was given an x-ray which showed that his lungs were compressed so the Doctor decided to do a puncture in order to take a sample of fluid which turns out to be an infection due to bacteria, Milli had one treatment of Baytril 0.03 mg once daily for 1 week. Seeing no change, I take her back to the vet. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Second visit to the clinic, the veterinarian decides to do an ultrasound which shows a cluster of eggs therefore second diagnosis egg retention, with all the same a decrease in the liquid so the steps to follow are to give us two weeks in order to him allow to lay, during this time the water is kept at 14 ° C, changing the place of decorations and plants to help stimulation of males and Milli . Two weeks have passed Milli hasn't laid eggs, she's put on weight again, eats very little and has difficulty moving around so I take her back to the vet. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Third visit , the vet notices that she has grown enormously and that we are going to try a last attempt by injecting her with a dose of oxytocin in order to allow her to expel the eggs "naturally" and he explains to me that this fails. we will move on to the operation. After the injection Milli showed no change in behavior, she evacuated a little mucus but nothing more so the vet decides to operate on her that same afternoon. The situation was much more serious than thought, during the operation Dr. Discovered that Milli had done an intra-abdominal egg laying with perforation of the uterus. The final diagnosis is that Milli had an infection in her ovaries which prevented her from laying normally despite the spermatophores being taken, thus causing her to perforate her uterus. The eggs were mostly stuck to the abdominal wall and in very poor condition. Milli still had a very large part of fluid in her body, with very few pathogenic bacteria, however. So I decided to let her go because she had very little chance of getting out and I wanted to spare her all further suffering. Elodie Guillen Elodie Guillen Elodie Guillen Elodie Guillen Elodie Guillen Elodie Guillen "Egg retention seems to me to be a consequence of a large number of factors, ranging from a concomitant pathology as in the second case, to a high level of stress (eg: unsuitable habitat) which blocks spawning. Ultimately, the presence of retained eggs should trigger the search for an underlying cause. Like all illnesses, there is an element of chance, yes. I have the impression that the absence of a male should inhibit the laying in the majority of the cases, but I cannot find any serious study which indicates to us if it is really a risk factor of retention of the laying. Up to a point, a female should be able to resorb unlaid eggs, if she has no other problem. The presence of a male will be more physiological, if the animals are otherwise healthy. Reproduction can be energetically expensive for females, and accelerate an underlying disease. Quantifying the risks of one situation in relation to another does not seem easy to me in the absence of quantified data. Subjectively, I find that making more natural groups by including a male should be better, but that is not proven to my knowledge. " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Sylvain Larrat Exclusive NAC veterinarian, exotic animals, wildlife and aquatic life Diplomat of the American College of Zoological Medicine Associate Professor, Faculty of Veterinary Medicine, University of Montreal In short : opinions are not divided on the retention of eggs or not, on thousands of members across France only a few wish to believe that there is no risk in maintaining females without males. In fact this will not be a problem for some females, it's true! As a veterinarian explained to me, it is also due to a slight pathology specific to certain females, yes but which ones? Well, we cannot guess. So the fact of not knowing if your females will not have a problem implies that you have to keep them with at least one male of sexual maturity. How can we say no worries, since it is precisely a risk. does not the precautionary principle prevail? " Je suis totalement d’accord avec les écrits du Dr. Larrat. Par ailleurs il n’y a pas réellement de « rétention d’œuf », ce sont des rétentions ou stases folliculaires, (ou œufs non fécondés). C'est un abus de langage, lorsque l’on parle de rétention d’œuf, on pense à un œuf bloqué, ou alors un bébé bloqué … le terme scientifique est une « dystocie ». Ce n’est pas le cas chez les axolotls. En fait on observe des absences de ponte ou surproduction de follicules ou les deux. Et normalement une femelle si elle n’a pas de mâle, ou un environnement non adapté à la ponte, va faire peu d’ovocytes, qu’elle est capable de résorber. Les « rétentions d’œuf » ou stase folliculaire… ou quelle que soit la manière dont on les appelle, sont très souvent la conséquence de quelque chose d’autre, et c’est souvent l’arbre qui cache la forêt. Ce sont rarement des urgences, elles répondent très mal aux « traitements classiques des rétentions d’œufs » (calcium, injection d’hormones…) et si on se contente de regarder cela, en général ça finit mal à moyen terme. Il est difficile de faire des vérités générales, et recommandations valables de manière générale. Nous n’avons pas de données chiffrées comme le souligne le Dr. LARRAT. J’ai plusieurs clients qui ont une ou deux femelles seules depuis des années sans aucun soucis. J’ai de nombreux clients qui perdent leurs femelles par épuisement, blessures, harcèlement dominance des mâles, ou en tout cas cela constitue un facteur prédisposant aux maladies. Mais effectivement dans certains cas il y a des femelles qui se mettent à faire pleins d’ovocytes alors qu’il n’y a pas de mâles. La présence de mâles peut les aider à les éliminer (pondre), mais on revient sur le débat précédent, en général c’est qu’il y a un autre problème derrière … Normalement une femelle n’est pas censée générer des ovocytes en quantité si elle n’entre pas en reproduction, et même si elle est perturbée pendant la ponte et ne peut pas pondre, elle est censée les résorber sans problème. " Dr Blanc

Opération incroyable réalisée par les professionnels de cette clinique marseillaise ! MARSEILLE NACS CLINIC OPERATIONS CATARACTE ET OCCLUSION Here is another veterinary clinic treating amphibians and our axolotls, I will gradually put the information and operations made on our scales. They also perform miracles! This is the NAC Marseille Massilian veterinary clinic At CHV Massilia 121 ave de Saint Julien 13012 Marseille Phone: 04 91 82 13 13 Veterinary care for NACs and exotic animals (rabbit, parrot, turtle ...) "Cataract in a frog. This nine-year-old Litoria has clouding of her lenses, especially on the left. She does not seem really embarrassed and continues to eat normally. The causes of cataracts can be multiple (physical, chemical, traumatic, infectious, metabolic, genetic ...). In this case, the living conditions are in accordance with the needs of the species. A genetic anomaly is possible. There is no medical treatment, the only option would be surgery. Of course, this possibility is only reasonable if the handicap becomes detrimental with in particular the impossibility of eating, which is not the case. "Digestive obstruction in a female Physignatus coccinus (Water dragon). This lizard has ingested several small gravels responsible for a digestive obstruction. The surgery consists of opening the intestine and removing them. This female was in the breeding season ( eggs are starting to be seen on the radio) and may have been looking for a source of calcium to make the shell. She has since recovered from the procedure and laid her eggs normally. "

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Axolotls et Cie est un site web dédié principalement à l'axolotl, cet étrange animal aquatique... mais également à d'autres cousins amphibiens. Vous découvrirez sa maintenance complète et détaillée ainsi que de belles photos. Les mises à jour sont hebdomadaires avec l'aide de vétérinaires. Axolotls et Cie is a website dedicated mainly to the axolotl, but also to other amphibian cousins, some articles also concern other aquatic ones, you will discover it, even if the main theme of the site remains the axolotl. You will be able to discover its complete and detailed maintenance as well as beautiful photos. Updates are weekly with the help of veterinarians, and feedback from members in France and abroad; some countries with more hindsight than us. Wishing you a pleasant discovery, welcome! Come and discuss with the members of the forum. Axolotls et Cie Latest additions to your forum! flaviegiorgianni99 11h À la recherche Like Reactions 0 0 comments 0 Views Laurie Gabillard 7d Axolotl malade qui perd ses pattes de devant Like Reactions 0 8 comments 8 Views crissou.oliviero Mar 28 Dons Axolotls leucistiques, gold, sauvages Like Reactions 0 2 comments 2 Views Nathalie C Nathalie C Nathalie C

L'axolotl comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut être blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? Intestinal worms Share In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. INTERNAL PARASITES / INTESTINAL WORMS Symptoms: the animal begins to eat less. It can even regurgitate. The more time passes, the less he eats and the more he regurgitates. He may (but not always) have abnormal restlessness, coupled with violent lateral torsion of the body. The head then touches the tail. He grew thinner and thinner and died after a few weeks. This condition is contagious. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Flagyl is a human specialty based on metronidazole. This active ingredient has anti-infective (sensitive anaerobic germs) and anti-amoebic (which people often confuse it with a dewormer). Often there is an amalgam between product which acts on the level of the intestine and dewormer ... these are two different things! Metronidazole acts against certain internal protozoa (digestive flagellates and coccidia) and imaginal cestodoses. Its spectrum of action is therefore not very wide and yet it is very often used by aquarists ... therefore obviously misguided. Panacur is often combined with Flagyl to treat a wider spectrum of parasites. Fish, like any animal species, are frequently parasitized. These may be parasites attached to the gills, fins or skin (we speak of ectoparasites) or parasites infesting the viscera (liver, stomach, intestine), the gonads or even the muscles (we speak of 'endoparasites). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. It is very common for fish to be parasitized by nematode larvae (or roundworms) of the Anisakidae family. These larvae are frequently present in many species of fish or cephalopods. The cycle of the parasite is as follows: The adult parasite is found in the stomachs of mammals. The embryonated eggs are thrown back into the water. They hatch by releasing a larva which will infect a small plankton crustacean. This crustacean is eaten by fish which thus inherit the parasite. The larva becomes encysted in the viscera and / or flesh of the fish while waiting for the fish to be eaten. Man, through the consumption of parasitized fish or cephalopods, is an accidental host of these parasites. It does not enter into the life cycle of these and constitutes a parasitic dead end. These larvae can cause in humans, when ingested alive, a gastrointestinal illness called anisakiasis or anisakidosis. Due to the sheer complexity of epidemiological phenomena and the variety of hosts, it is difficult to control the presence of parasites in fish. Also, the prevention of anisakidosis involves simple measures before consuming the products. Indeed freezing or cooking is enough to kill these larvae and make them harmless. The fish must then either be cooked to a minimum of 60 ° C (the flesh must not be pink at the level of the bone), or frozen for at least 24 hours at -20 ° C in the heart of the product before being eaten raw or undercooked. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Regarding Flagyl, it suffices to adapt the dosage of course. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Capizol This treatment is now withdrawn from the website following the return of another veterinarian indicating to have observed cases of paralysis in reaction to the active molecule. So even if some vets advise it, caution requires warning you. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The Panacur Active molecule: Fenbendazole Body weight should be assessed as accurately as possible before calculating the dose. Panacur works by removing nematodes from the axolotl. Thus dewormed the animal can regain strength and weight. It is often used when Flagyl has not worked. Different types of worms Nematodes : Treatment is with anthelmintics (dewormers). There are several molecules: Fenbendazole: Panacur (dog), Levimasole: Lobiavers, Capizol, Aquaverm, Flubendazol: Fluvermal, NOT RECOMMENDED FOR AXOLOTLS Benzimidazole: Nedol (JBL). Cestodes : The treatment is based on the use of Praziquantel which is found in: Droncit (Bayer) and Drontal - Dewormer for cats (oral route to mix in food (or bath but less effective and more restrictive) Plativers (Biocanina), Cestocur, Gyrodol (JBL), Tremazol (SERA). FLAGYL (Metronidazole molecule) Or half a tablet (dosed in 500 mg) for 20 L of water, once a day and for 5 days or even 10 days if necessary (crush the compress in a glass of water, a mortar, so that it dissolves better afterwards in the aquarium). If you use the syrup it will be necessary to dose 1ml for 1 liter of water. In the event that your axolotl is severely affected, it will have to be treated directly internally by direct absorption at a rate of one tenth of the tablet per day or more conveniently with Flagyl in its liquid form in syrup! At a rate of 0.6ml per day, it will be necessary to treat 4 days then leave 5 days of rest for the digestive system of the axolotl to treat again 4 days. CAUTION: the animal is generally better after 1 to 3 days. But you have to continue the treatment until the end, otherwise the parasite will come back. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Dolthene (oxfendazole) ? Many undesirable effects on our axolotls, many of them would present an intolerance to this molecule which damages their skin (desquamation) and their gills. Here is now the story of "Bidule" by Campbell Atkins "I got it on 08/31/17, my best friend arrived at my house with it, without my knowing it, because it was for my birthday. At first I didn't know what an axolotl below 10cm really looked like, so for me it was normal (as the seller said) it would grow bigger and bigger and its gills expand. But hey ... while posting a photo of him, someone told me that he was in very bad health! So I came to the groups and there the weeks went by ... I didn't know what he actually had, people said it was going to pass, others that he had worms. So I gave him beef heart, which he ate perfectly well, but ended up vomiting 2/3 days later. But the day he got even thinner, I asked again for advice on the Axolotls et Cie group, and there I was certified that he had worms .. the problem: I couldn't get Flagyl. So a woman sent me 2/3 days after my request, but it was in the form of tablets. On another group, I was told that I had no heart, that in liquid form he would survive with the treatment while there with pills I was going to kill him, that I had no pity for him, that for me it was more of a toy that one replaces once broken ... but I believed in it, he spent a week + 4 days after a short break, in Flagyl (as a tablet diluted in the 'water) and after that, beef heart cure to make it fat! In a week we could already see the difference: redder gill filaments, thicker limbs, bigger belly. He was finally out of danger! The only problem then: the pellets ... he didn't want any at all! I left him for almost a week without eating (I offered to him but he didn't want any) until the day he threw himself on it! For almost a month now, he's been back to being an Axo like the others, eating properly, and regaining a healthy life! " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. This testimony could help people, thank you to Campbell, his perseverance paid off !! The following photos are very telling ... The first days... Anorexia can have several causes, parasitization is one. The digestive system is then irritated and the axolotl regurgitates because its irritated throat prevents it from absorbing food. Today 12/26/2017