RESEARCH

Red legs. Pathologie pouvant toucher les amphibiens et urodèles "RED LEGS" OR RED PAW SYNDROME CAUSES The "red leg" syndrome is a common infection in amphibians (anurans and urodeles). This pathology is recognized by the redness of the legs and / or the abdomen of the amphibian and is generally due to the bacteria: Aeromonas hydrophila, an opportunistic bacterial pathogen. But other bacteria have been identified that can cause this pathology: in particular Pseudomonas, Proteus, Citrobacter, Salmonella and Escherichia coli. It has also been suggested that Chlamydia-like organisms and even certain viruses could cause red leg disease. Newly acquired malnourished amphibians that are kept in poor water quality or overcrowded, are particularly susceptible to 'red leg' syndrome, spoiled food, exposure to toxins such as pesticides are also factors. of this disease. Several animals are usually affected if they are housed in the same area. SYMPTOMS The redness of the amphibian's legs and abdomen is caused by the dilation (or stretching) of the capillaries under its skin. The amphibian may even begin to bleed from the muscles, tongue, or “third eyelid,” (a protective skin fold under the amphibian's eyes). Other symptoms that may be observed include: Anemia Lethargy Extreme weight loss Open sores on the skin, nose, and toes that do not heal Ascites (accumulation of fluid in the abdominal cavity) DIAGNOSTIC Your veterinarian will look for signs of generalized infection, which may include inflammation or localized dead cells in the liver, spleen, and other abdominal organs. Blood or body fluid tests to check for the presence of the organism causing the infection are also done. As other axolotls are at risk of being affected, it is good that they receive antibiotics for prevention. Even with treatment, many affected animals will die from this disease. Its course can be so rapid that by the time the animal shows signs of disease, considerable irreversible damage has occurred to internal organs.

L'aquascaping ou comment recréer un décor naturel et harmonieux chez vous AQUASCAPING Share In the 1990s, Takashi Amano, then a photographer, gradually introduced the Japanese aesthetic drawn from the concepts of Wabi-sabi and Zen in the aquarium hobby. The most influential figure to date in Aquascaping, Takashi Amano is the creator of the ADA brand, which popularized a range of products that have allowed a wide distribution of the tools and techniques specific to the discipline. This brand is also at the origin of the global IALPC competition which, year after year, allows the general public to discover the most beautiful creations of enthusiasts from all over the world. Introduction Aquascaping corresponds to the arrangement of the different elements of a freshwater aquarium (marine aquascaping is not very widespread). Starting from the intention of reconstituting a natural setting, the elements used will also be natural: sand, plants, roots, rocks etc. In some aquariums, the fish are there to highlight the plants and other elements of the decor, which is quite paradoxical. The Natural Style This style is characterized by a particular attention to the arrangement of roots, stones and aquatic plants in order to create a magnified representation of an aquatic environment or a terrestrial landscape. In this sense the Natural Aquarium is not a Biotope, in fact the choice of plants, the composition of the scenery (hardscape) or the selected population does not claim to replicate a natural environment but to create an aquatic landscape whose main interest lies in its aesthetics. Aquascaping can be considered as an art form because the objective of the aquascapeur is to restore in his aquarium an atmosphere that he likes or moves. Whether we follow the rules or not, we all do a bit of aquascaping by arranging the elements of the aquarium according to technical or personal criteria. The main forms of aquascaping are as follows: Japanese aquascaping The objective here is to represent in the aquarium a piece of aquatic nature or not (forest, mountain etc.) The basis of Japanese aquascaping is the hardscape, ie all of the “hard” elements such as the substrate, stones and roots. Some aquascapeurs realize aquariums only composed of these elements. The design seeks to approach sobriety, a value sought by the aquascap Dutch aquascaping Undoubtedly the oldest form of aquascaping (competitions have been organized since the 1960s), Dutch aquascaping consists of creating a very dense and perfectly maintained plant mat. Between 10 and 20 varieties of plants are used here. The aquascaper arranges its plants in stairs and creates a main path (as well as side aisles), so as to give a beautiful aspect of depth to the whole. Wild Jungle aquascaping The master of this technique is George Booth. The aquascapeur chooses a focal point in his aquarium on which he wants to attract the eye of the observer by using the textures and colors of the elements of his tank. Most forms of aquascaping follow one of these composition rules: The triatic arrangement: the aquarium elements are grouped together on one side. Their height decreases to the center of the aquarium. The other side of the aquarium remains empty. The concave arrangement: the elements are arranged in a V shape to leave an empty space in the middle. This space is often used to represent a path passing through the middle of a forest or mountains. The linear layout: unlike the previous diagrams, it does not respect a strict rule. The linear layout aims to represent a very graphic whole by playing with volumes and colors. The convex layout: the elements are grouped together to create a visual impact. They can be centered, for example. Some rules and tips 1. Respect the focal point and the golden ratio: so that the tank is harmonious, the aquascapeur determines a focal point (or two) towards which it would like to draw attention. It can be a particularly interesting plant or stone. The location of the focal point is determined by the golden ratio (also used in painting) To find this location you have to measure the length of the tank and divide it by 2.618. Then measure this result on your bin, indicating it with a felt-tip pen (this part has for ration 1). The remaining length corresponds to the length whose ration is 1.618. 2.Use stem plants to carve the decor. 3.Create levels with the substrate respecting the foreground, the median plane and the back plant so that each plant is highlighted. 4.For aquariums below 200l, choose plants with fine foliage so that the tank appears larger. 5.Do not arrange its elements too symmetrical to keep a natural appearance. 6.Group the different plants according to their species for a better impact, do not sparse them. Forest effect Tree alone Mountain effect

Le low tech est ce possible avec des axolotls? Retours d'expériences de membres. What is a Low Tech aquarium? Share A Low Tech aquarium, as its name suggests, is a tank that uses as few technical tools as possible. Often these tanks do not include filtration and heating and only basic lighting, or even no lighting. Inspired by the Walstad method, these aquariums "turn" by leaving mainly the plants and the population of the tank to create a cycle allowing life in the aquarium only through photosynthesis. What is the difference between the low-tech method and the natural aquarium? There is no such thing as 100% natural aquarium keeping, the natural side refers only to the means that plants have to act as a natural filter, that is to say that in a well planted aquarium we can do without filtration. . But even in a so-called "natural" aquarium you have to intervene, contain the vegetation, use lighting, compensate for evaporation, feed the fish. Why is filtration not necessary in low-tech? In low-tech or natural aquariums, it is the plants that act as a filter. If the filtration does not disturb the balance between axolotls and plants, the plants manage to absorb the ammonium obtained from the excrements of the aquatics, thus preventing the proliferation of nitrites and nitrates. Several scientists have shown that, in aquatic environments, plants quickly absorb nitrogenous matter, in an aquarium the same thing happens. They also found that plants can fix heavy metals as well. The various experiments have shown that aquatic plants could very well replace filters. Does it seem like low-tech or natural aquariums are dirty? Absolutely not. A low-tech aquarium is cleaned less often, less siphoning from the ground and less water changes, and the aquarium stays clean thanks to a light agitation that does not stir too much, and thanks to the many bacteria, which take care of degrade waste. A low-tech bin remains clean and the water is not cloudy, but it is certain that it is not a sanitized bin since in low-tech we allow plant waste to decompose naturally and we also use the leaves. dead. Is it true that in a natural aquarium very few fish or axolotls are needed? It's like traditional aquarium keeping, you have to avoid overcrowding. The aquarium should be proportionate to the size of the fish. What must count are the needs of the fish, it is necessary to know if they live in groups, to know their size once adult, their ability to reproduce, their aggressiveness or not, their swimming area (groundfish, medium , of surface). Generally most aquariums are overcrowded, it is necessary to make a choice, the choice of their well-being, happy fish are those who do not constantly struggle to defend their territory or to feed themselves and who can hide when they do. feel the need. Here we will rather talk about axolotls, refer to the comfort table for correct measurements. It seems that you have to feed the fish very little in a natural aquarium so as not to pollute too much, is it true? No, you have to feed the fish correctly, several times a day in small quantities. We must observe the fish after feeding, they must not have too big a belly and that they do not become too heavy or unable to swim, that is the sign that they are overfed. Afterwards, if there is excess food that falls on the sand, it does not matter, once degraded this food will release a whole bunch of elements that the plants will absorb, it will become a natural fertilizer, snails will also benefit. Finally, the fish should be fasted once a week. In our aquariums, unlike wild life, they are fed regularly. A weekly fast allows their digestive system to rest, it helps keep them healthier and alive longer. Do you need a large aquarium for it to work well without a filter? No, it is not mandatory to have a large tank, from 30 liters an aquarium works very well without filtration at all. It suffices to put Ceratophyllum or Elodea, and duckweed so that the environment remains healthy. Obviously, in this kind of tray, you can put either a Fighter, or Killies, or a couple of Dario Dario. Lighting is still necessary for the plants. For maintenance it is as for larger bins. You have to compensate for evaporation, make two or three water changes a year, prune the plants, etc. 2) Aquarium cycling, nitrogen cycle, bacteria: Is there also a cycling period for a natural aquarium, as in the traditional aquarium? There is a period during which the ecosystem is set up, the duration may vary depending on the aquarium, but during this period the aquarium is unstable because a host of bacteria gradually colonize the tank. It is better to wait two to three weeks before putting your fish. For aquariums with potting soil the cycling period can be longer, from three weeks to a month or more. Diana Walstad says you can put the fish in the aquarium from day one, is that feasible? Diana Walstad doesn't say you have to do it but that she does it, she doesn't say that her way of doing things is the best, she only describes her way of doing things, it's very different. Personally, I do not recommend stocking your aquarium from the first day because that would require increased monitoring of the tank and the aquatic ones. During the first two or three weeks, the ecosystem stabilizes slowly, there is no point in rushing. Why stress yourself out by putting the fish in quickly when you can do it in a relaxed and serene way and take your time ?! Does a natural aquarium also experience the nitrite peak? No, in a natural or low-tech aquarium there is no what is called the 'nitrite peak'. Colonization by bacteria occurs gradually, even if there is at the beginning a slight increase in nitrites, the process goes almost unnoticed, this is in the case where there is no powerful filtration and the aquarium is abundantly planted with real aquatic plants. Why is there no nitrite peak in a natural tank? In a natural aquarium nitrification is also done but in a much gentler way. As there is no powerful 'biological' filtration with large filter media, which offers immense ground for the proliferation of bacteria, there is also no sudden increase in nitrites. In fact, the increase in nitrites is proportional to the 'filter' masses present in the filtration and to the power of the filter. In addition, in a natural aquarium, aquatic plants participate in the regulation of bacteria and maintain their populations at a reasonable level. An important thing is that pure aquatic plants take up ammonia in the form of ammonium, so there is no significant nitrification. Is the nitrogen cycle the same as in an aquarium with filtration? No, the same does not happen with nitrogen in a natural aquarium. In an aquarium with filtration, the ammonium cannot be absorbed by the plants since it is sucked by the filter where, because of the filter media, it is transformed by the bacteria into nitrites and then into nitrates. On the other hand, in a natural aquarium, it is the plants that absorb ammonium directly, so there is no large production of nitrates. In a well-planted, well-functioning aquarium, the nitrate level should be zero. There may, however, be some but at a very low rate, if this happens it is necessary to add plants or replace some. Can I introduce my fish as soon as my aquarium is planted and put in water? No, it is better to wait a fortnight after filling it with water. If you find that the aquatic plants are growing well and are healthy, this is where you can start by introducing a few fish. You can optionally test your water to verify that there is no risk to your axolotls. How long do I have to wait before putting on the axolotls or fish? It takes two to three weeks for the aquarium to stabilize. It will take a lot of pure aquatic plants and leave the snails at the start. To put the fish, the vegetation must be healthy and lush. Lots of plants means big clumps of Elodea or Ceratophyllum, vallisnerias, fast growing plants (not like anubias) and not that you need lots of different varieties. I have been offered a product that is supposed to bring bacteria into the aquarium quickly to speed up cycling, is that a good thing? I do not think it is necessary to inoculate the tank artificially. It is best to let the process take place naturally. By putting plants and gastropods, you introduce bacteria that will multiply, no need to spend money and force nature. I was told that bringing bacteria was essential? We can very well do without these products. Bacteria come naturally with plants, snails and water. Our mains water is already full of bacteria which will grow rapidly in a favorable environment such as an aquarium. For bacteria to thrive you need water, light, and a little heat. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Equipment, mixing, lighting: I have an aquarium with an internal decanter, how can I remove the filtration? There are two solutions, either you remove the decanter by cutting the silicone with a cutter, it's very easy, or you remove the filter media and you keep the decanter empty with just the turbine. Why do you have to stir the water since filtration is unnecessary? Stirring is often necessary, not always but often, because this allows the nutrients and carbon dioxide to be distributed to the plants, it also makes it possible to homogenize the temperature. But the most important thing is that it helps provide oxygen to bacteria all over the tank. It is thanks to oxygen that bacteria do their job of degrading and recycling waste. It is only when the waste is sufficiently degraded that plants can reuse it. Stirring also prevents the formation of the biofilm on the surface which, if not broken, prevents gas exchange. I have a 30 liter aquarium with a Fighter, do I have to put a pump for the brewing, is it really mandatory? Nothing is mandatory, you have to test and do according to the specifics of your baccalaureate. It is true that the Betta does not like the current which tires it out if it is too strong. Try with no current at all, it can work very well or with an enhancer. If your plants are growing well and there is no buildup of waste, your aquarium is viable without mixing. Can an air pump be used instead of a turbine for brewing? The ideal is to have a mashing wheel which moves the surface very slightly, or a small internal filter without the filter foams. A bubbler drives out the carbon dioxide and thus deprives the plants of the essential CO2. The bubbler can be useful during hot weather, in case of fish disease, or at the start of the installation of a new aquarium, but that's it. That's the theory, personally, and failing to have a small turbine, I used a bubbler for my 200l, I didn't notice anything abnormal, my plants were exploding. I believe that a bubbler in a large tank does less damage than in a small ... I see the beginning of an explanation. Can I use my external filter if I remove the filter media? If the filter is powerful it is not wise. The external filters are generally too powerful and if you remove the filter media the power is even greater, everything in the aquarium is likely to blow up. A strong current is not necessary and if you have scavengers like Ostracods or Aselles, they may either get sucked in or be injured, and fish don't like too strong a current either. A small turbine (ventury) producing a slight current is sufficient. How powerful should the circulation pump be? For an aquarium without filtration you do not need a powerful turbine, once the volume of the tank is largely sufficient. But this is difficult to find when you have a small aquarium, for this kind of small tank there are small internal filters that you can clamp and you just have to remove the foam. I have a small internal filter, does the foam around the strainer create nitrates? It is quite possible that the foam, as in conventional filtration, produces some nitrates, but this is marginal. If you want to avoid this, just rinse the foam once a week. But if your tank is large, this nitrate level will be insignificant. I have a small internal filter with different foams, should I keep them? No, you don't have to keep them, these foams are intended for a traditional aquarium hobby. In low-tech you just need the turbine to make the current. Optionally, you can replace these sophisticated foams with perlon, just to prevent a snail from getting sucked in and blocking the turbine. Can I use my under sand filter for my natural aquarium? This is not useful because in a natural aquarium there is a need in the soil for an anaerobic zone. This type of filter, even if practical for small breeding tanks, ends up clogging the substrate quite quickly. It should be remembered that, in the last layer of sand, bacteria live without oxygen and produce CO2 by consuming nitrites, if the soil is too oxygenated, this denitrifying operation does not take place and that would be a shame. What lighting can we use in low-tech? Usually the lighting supplied with the aquarium is sufficient. Too much lighting can benefit the algae. In low-tech we use an average lighting of 1w for a maximum of 2 liters. at 1w for 3 liters. The color T ° must be between 6 and 7000K, and the IRC between 80 and 90. Fluorescent tubes are very efficient, it is simply necessary to avoid lighting with the blue color which favors algae. Compact fluorescent bulbs for medium bins are also effective, for larger bins you can add more than one. CFL bulbs for horticultural use are also suitable for the growth of aquatic plants, they give very good results with a longer lifespan, in addition to their low cost. (According to D. Walstad) ( see lighting article ). How many hours a day should you light your aquarium? It can vary from 8 to 12 hours a day. If your aquarium is very planted and especially well populated you can light a dozen hours per day. If you have simple vegetation, and few fish, daily lighting between 8 and 10 hours is sufficient. Remember that the more you light, the more your plants need nutrients and CO2, if these are lacking there is no point in straining the lighting. Lighting a lot is not going to make your plants grow any faster. You have to find the right balance. I read that D. Walstad advises to take a "nap" of 4 hours in his aquarium, is it really useful? This is indeed what she advocates. A cut of 4 hours during the day allows the stock of CO2 to be able to be reconstituted. His explanation seems logical to me, and in view of his bins this method works. It also allows you to enjoy your aquarium for longer since it is lit in the evening, when you are at home, after a day's work. Low Tech suitable for beginners? Even if the theory is attractive. Featured on many blogs as the ultimate solution combining ecology, well-being of aquarium occupants and economy. The Low Tech tank is not necessarily a good idea for the amateur aquarist. Indeed, this system presented as simplistic by aficionados of the all natural and adapted to the poubellarium requires a certain amount of knowledge in aquarist which is not necessarily mastered by beginners. And this kind of natural tank will quickly become an adventure "without a net" which could derail this project by a simple disturbance of the water parameters. So, beginners think twice before taking the all-natural route. Sometimes, it is wiser and more responsible towards your future residents, to opt for a lower volume of water resulting in less maintenance cost than to choose a system that you will not master before several failures. You will need to test the ammonia in your aquarium regularly to be sure that the pollution is well absorbed by the plants. Here are the experiences of the members now axolotls in Low Tech In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "So for my lowtech tank I started it two years ago (early 2016). I had originally prepared the aquarium in the classic way with an external filter, and cycled it for about 4 weeks. On a forum I met a person who kept his axolotls in lowtech. He was very criticized on this subject. But his maintenance greatly interested me being a follower of the natural on a daily basis. I read a lot, French articles but especially English. Some had kept fish "fragile" without problem for years with this technique. Despite the fear I took out my filter, I took it to a friend and put it in his aquarium to maintain the bacteria alive and active, in case of concern. I tested my water every day, with an empty tank next to it in case of problems. I never needed it. From the start my tank was heavily planted, a bit of everything , and with a single axolotl at the start to avoid too much pollution when starting up. 6 months after a second joined the baccalaureate. I then put a small internal filter to create a movement of water, it is not mandatory, but the axolotls are not at speeds. I added emerged plants over time, I test new ones regularly, I find it a plus. I drew a lot of inspiration from poubellariums. I have never siphoned off the ground. I never do a water change. I add a little pipe water from time to time to make up for the evaporation. I rarely prune the plants, I like the mess it gives. I observe a lot, the number of snails, where are they, the micro-organisms, the behavior of the axolotls, the state of its gills, etc ... " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "The plants in submerged I have vallisneria, java moss, lentils, alterantera Emerged: Monstera, cyperus, dwarf fern, Dieffenbachia, pothos, chlorophytum, lucky bamboo and other dracaena and an unidentified pante. " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. (To come photos of the new 150 x 50 x 60 bin) In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Thanks to Stella Lagriffoul for this sharing. ^^ In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

To test this feature, visit your live site. Categories All Posts My Posts Soyez les bienvenus ! Axolotls & Cie est ravi de vous accueillir. Posez toutes vos questions ici Create New Post Adopter ou faire adopter Follow Views Posts 232 Vous pouvez également proposer des commandes sur aquaterratec afin d'économiser les frais de port. Poissons, crevettes, etc Follow Views Posts 14 Poissons et invertébrés Présentations Follow Views Posts 1 Petit coin présentation de vos loulous, de vous, vos aquariums :) Concours Follow Views Posts 1 Ici vous pourrez poster vos photos. Celle qui recoltera le plus de votes se verra récompensée. Santé Follow Views Posts 18 Questions santé, soins Matériel aquario Follow Views Posts 6 Vous souhaitez vendre un aquarium ou du matériel? Ou bien vous avez des questions? Urodèles et anoures Follow Views Posts 0 Le monde des amphibiens est vaste... New Posts flaviegiorgianni99 11h À la recherche OCCITANIE Bonjour, je suis à la recherche d’un axolotl sauvage environ 20 à 25 cm je suis dans le 31 Merci Like 0 comments 0 Laurie Gabillard 3d Axolotl malade qui perd ses pattes de devant Santé Bonjour, Depuis qq temps un de mes deux axolotls a les deux pattes de devant qui se délitent. Je l’ai déjà isolé 10 jours puis je l’ai remis avec la femelle qui a un ventre énorme j’imagine avec plein d’œufs. J’ai lu qu’elle aussi pouvait mourir si elle ne pondait pas. L’an dernier elle avait déjà pondu deux fois. J’ai mis de l’argent colloïdal dans l’aquarium mais je remarque que son état se dégrade. Je me sens démunie… Like 8 comments 8 crissou.oliviero 7d Dons Axolotls leucistiques, gold, sauvages ILE DE FRANCE Bonjour à toutes et tous, Nous avons des axolotls depuis 2 ans. Nous devons déménager et malheureusement nous ne pouvons pas les emmener. Nous les donnons et recherchons des nouvelles familles qui sauront les chouchouter. Ils ont éclos chez nous, ils ont 2 ans et font entre 20 et 25 centimètres. Merci pour votre retour. A votre disposition pour d'autres informations Like 2 comments 2 Forum - Frameless

L'été approche, et là panique ! La température de l'eau de votre aquarium ne cesse d'augmenter comment faire ? Haut de page refroidir l eau refroidir l eau Cool the water in your aquarium Method 1: Frozen water bottles. Summer is approaching, and there is panic! The water in your aquarium keeps increasing, but our axolotls like cool water (ideally 16/18 ° C) how to do this ??? First, have leds for lighting instead of neons, in fact the former remain cold and therefore do not heat your water. Do not have a cover that will keep the heat. Besides, cover plus neon = 2 additional degrees for the water! We will discuss here the different methods, at different costs ... Freeze bottles of water in your freezer (removing the labels that they do not end up in the aquarium), 2 to 3 for a 240 l morning and evening. 4 morning, noon and evening for 300 up to 500 liters. Afterwards, the heat of the room affects the cooling parameters of your water, so it's up to you to monitor your thermometer the first few times. Advantage: Inexpensive Disadvantage: more or less space to be freed in the freezer. Method 2 : A pedestal fan directed at the surface of the water This method allows to gain at least two degrees depending on the power of the fan it can be more. Advantage: Inexpensive. Disadvantage: can be cumbersome and noisy depending on the model, be careful that there is no risk that a child or a pet will drop it head into the water! Click on the images to be directed to the merchant sites Method 3: fan ramp Marie bought a 40cm fan ramp from zoomalia for € 74 (excluding promotions), after having installed it on her 240L tank, her water has lost 8 degrees !! (at the base it is recommended to have this fan in 20 cm for a 200 liter in order to lose 3/4 degrees) brand Dohse Aquaristik. Valentin also bought a Dohse Aquaristik brand fan and this allowed him to maintain a temperature of 17 degrees in mid season, for a room that was at 20/22 degrees. In the " Tutorials " section of the site you also have Laetty and Fabrice who share with you the manufacture of their homemade fan ramps. No more excuses for letting your kitties bathe in hot soup! Method 4: Mobile air conditioner (or fixed) The advantage of such a purchase is that the whole family will enjoy the freshness of your room. The downside being the higher cost and the space taken up by a mobile air conditioner, you can find it on different ad sites but also in DIY stores, be careful not to be confused with an air cooler that uses an air conditioner. water tank system to be filled regularly on which a blower sends an air automatically refreshed by the soaked towel. This system costs around 50 € used and 100 € new, it is effective in lowering the temperature of the room by two or even 3 degrees. But without comparison with an air conditioning. Method 5: Cooling unit There are some from 100 € (at the cheapest) to 1400 € (and probably even more). Before you buy, ask the seller about cooling because some small (usually characterized by low wattage) coolers do not cool the water enough. So more units are needed to achieve the same effect, which a larger one could easily do. How does this device work? First, the water is pumped through the heat exchanger, where the cold compressed gas flows. This compressed gas is there to take heat from the water in an aquarium. The heat is caught in the compressor again and the pressure drops. Finally, the heat is taken in a radiator. A fan sucks in the new air and lets hot air out of the cooler. This was taken from another article on the website: www.aqua-fish.net/articles/refroidisseur-pour-aquarium It is possible to run them non-stop, however this is not recommended. They are like refrigerators; They don't cool down all the time (it's naturally automated). Size doesn't matter. It's all in wattage and efficiency, and throughput. For example, compare these two coolers: Pacific Coast CL-85 micro chiller 1/4 HP Oceanic Aquarium Chiller The output of the first is 85 watts. 360 -720 liters per hour is the optimum flow. The dimensions are: 4 "x 4 3/4" x 7 1/2 ". The second flow rate is between 2137.5 and 3600 liters per hour. The dimensions are: 13 x 17 x 17.31. The difference should be clear. More gph means more wattage and space. While I don't want to prefer any manufacturer, Oceanic seems to be very good. However, even Mercedes-Benz sometimes produces a car that shows issues after being used. Take your decision based on price, warranty, and validity available. Benefits : Coolers make the temperature stable effortlessly. This results in happier fish. Please read at the beginning of this article to understand why some fish just need a cooler. If you are going on vacation, you will not have to worry about overheating your aquarium (s). Disadvantages: Wattage is not the best. Consumption can be significant in terms of energy. How to get a discount? It is so easy; Ask for it! When you buy something for more than 200 €, ask for a better price! Do not hesitate, it is your money. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. And finally compare the different brands on the market, ask questions.

JULIEN GOIN VETERINAIRE NAC Hypoalbuminemia Julien GOIN veterinarian NAC In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Veterinary Clinic of 1001 paws 45, rue du Temple 45170 NEUVILLE AUX BOIS 02 38 75 97 90 https://www.clinique1000pattes.fr/nos-equipes/lequipe-de-neuville-aux-bois/veterinaire-nac-julien-goin/ In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Julien Goin specialist NAC had to treat an axolotl undergoing an effusion of liquid. "A small photo of Titi, an axolotl who came to the clinic for an abdominal effusion problem (abnormal accumulation of fluid in the belly). Titi was entitled to an abdominal ultrasound, and was able to return home after a small" emptying "to relieve him!" In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "We punctured all the liquid (here is the corresponding photo of the entire punctured volume). Analysis of the liquid showed nothing (liquid having the same density as water, without inflammatory element), abdominal ultrasound Neither. A blood test is planned soon. He has been dewormed for the moment (indeed, one of the possible causes is hypoalbuminemia: blood protein deficiency causing blood plasma to leak into the abdominal cavity). Thank you to Veterinary Doctor Julien Goin for this sharing. Do not forget that the minor ailments of your axolotls can be treated at home but only professionals are authorized for more important cases!

Comment cela fonctionne-t-il ? Explications et accompagnement Haut de page METAMORPHOSIS My axolotl is undergoing a metamorphosis, how can I support it so that it can live its new earthly life happily? First of all, the causes of a metamorphosis: Genetic cause: thyroid stimulated on certain strains for experimental purposes, it is assumed that progenies (more frequent in Germany) are brought to mutate even under perfect conditions of maintenance. Possible trigger: an environment that has become hostile: dirty, hot water, little oxygen, little water, etc. But we must not forget that it is not as simple for the axolotl as for the other urodeles, the genetic cause remains the first. Note that Ambystoma Andersoni, cousin of axolotl is more prone to mutate. PHOTO What is metamorphosis? The dorsal veil decreases until it completely disappears, the four legs lengthen and thicken in order to prepare for terrestrial gravity; the filaments then the gills disappear completely, the skin sheds and thickens, mobile eyelids appear. Here is our Ambystoma Mexicanum ready to face life on earth. NEVER ATTEMPT TO FORCE A MUTATION 80% SUCCUMBENT AND FOR THOSE WHO SURVIVE THEIR LENGTH OF LIFE DECREASES FROM 15/20 YEARS TO 5/6 YEARS. THE TERRARIUM: A terrarium measuring 90 x 50 x 40 (100 x 40 x 30) centimeters is a minimum for an adult couple. The substrate will be composed of 50% blond peat without fertilizer and 50% "plantation soil" of Exo Terra, a mixture allowing to maintain a high hygrometry (humidity) and to plant the terrarium properly. This substrate is laid out over a thickness of ten centimeters (minimum), the whole being covered with dead leaves from local undergrowth (cleaned and microwaved to disinfect them). You can install very soft foam such as spaigne, which can be found in damp undergrowth. A small basin is placed in the terrarium, with a low water height (five centimeters). Temperatures / Lighting / Hygrometry: The metamorphosed axolotl lives without concern at room temperature (14/24 ° C), but does not appreciate strong heat. It must be ensured that it can bury itself to cool itself. Here is an axolotl still in the water but metamorphosed, its new owner is preparing a terrarium for it. Plants are welcome in the universe of the loulou, if you want a well planted environment and as natural as possible you will still need a UV lamp with low radiation: uvb 2% and uva 10% directed in a specific area if he wishes to land there. In addition, so that the plants can grow properly, either position the terrarium near a window or if this is not possible use artificial lighting. The humidity will be between 70% and 80%, it can be "drier" but it will always be necessary to ensure that the animals have a water basin available. The terrarium will be sprayed daily or every other day. Here are some examples of terrarium layout: FOOD: This species is quite voracious, so be careful of overfeeding. Carnivorous, it feeds on different preys, which will be varied as much as possible for the sake of a good nutritional supply: earthworms, potting soil, hive moth, mealworms (if the head is crushed, locusts, etc. foods that were previously prohibited for many are now allowed. An individual is fed a good quantity every three days. Collect the waste well so that it does not rot. All preys are sprinkled with calcium. Since a source of UV is present, the preys will not be sprinkled with vitamin D3 (unless no UV lamp in the terra). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. REPRODUCTION: It takes place in water, the young have a very good chance of metamorphosis in their turn but not enough feedback on these reproductions to establish ratios. METAMORPHOSIS IN 20 DAYS Metamorphosed but why? Some might think that poor maintenance is the cause of a metamorphosis, but in reality lowering the water level and raising the temperature of the water will only kill your pet. An injection of hormones can make it evolve in terrestrial, but strongly discouraged, this test is so exhausting for the animal that it does not always survive, moreover its life expectancy is reduced to 5 years. No really known cause for the metamorphosed, however a genetic track is considered. Some axos have been mixed with other cousins to obtain certain colors, so these mixtures promote metamorphosis. Know that if an axo has to metamorphose, nothing will prevent it. This most often occurs around 17cm, in any case after reaching more than 20 cm, it is unusual for it to undergo metamorphosis. How a Metamorphosis Works (This article is based entirely on my personal experience with my axo metamorphosis, so if you're in the case of a metamorphosis, you may not have the same experience as I. Some axolotls metamorphose more or less quickly than others.) In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. First day I discovered my axo which had its back veil greatly reduced. In the doubt of an illness, I isolated him in a quarantine tank to check if he was eating normally and had no other symptoms. He had also refused to eat for a few days. I also observed that these eyes "stood out", indeed an eyelid was being formed for the preparation for an earthly life. Terrarium, yes but which one? You can opt for a tank, an aquarium or a terrarium according to your tastes and your budget. Let's take a look at the advantages and disadvantages of each. Widely used for amphibians of all kinds, it is perfect for a metamorphosed axo. It will have 5 closed sides, and the front side open with a window that will open and serve as a door. Amphibians being fearful by nature, it is preferable that they are not locked in a terrarium entirely made of so-called "open" glass, they need the closed sides that they feel safe without seeing everything that is happening in them. the room. The terrarium must be waterproof, because it will need to be humidified regularly, and must have ventilation to avoid fungi. advantages: sold in the trade already prepared, you will not have any "work" to do on it to adapt it to the axo. disadvantages: I do not see any for my part. Aquarium: Being adapted to aquatic life, you will need to modify it for terrestrial life. However if you only had one axo and it morphs it will save you money, you will already have a place to install it. Equipped with a cover it will be ideal because it happens that the metamorphosed escape. pros: It's easier to find a cheap aquarium, you may already have one and therefore don't have to invest in another terra. These windows will allow you to observe your animal from all sides and sometimes when it is buried. disadvantages: it only has the glass front and therefore the animal may feel in danger, so you will see it less than if it were in a terrarium. The door would therefore be the cover, it can frighten the animal. And you will have to from the top rather than from the front. Aeration is necessary, it is difficult to install one with a completely closed container. Tank: Identical to the aquarium but without a cover. advantages: if you feel like a handyman, you will like to arrange it. They are often lower than aquariums, because the height will no longer matter for the axo, it will be mainly burrowing. disadvantages: you will have to make the cover yourself with cleats and a mesh or mosquito net. Similar to the aquarium, it does not have closed sides, and its door will also be at the top, all these elements tend to stress the axo. So in summary, the terrarium being the perfect solution, the aquarium being the ideal and the tank the most restrictive but not bad either, make your choice. The size of the terrarium should be 80 cm long and 35/40 cm wide. The height does not matter, a minimum of 20 cm is recommended. Facilities: The substrate to begin with will require a height of at least 10cm of substrate as it will like to bury itself. You will have the choice between coconut humus, peat, amphibian soil without fertilizer and soil from your garden if it does not contain any products. We will add forest moss on top, previously cleaned and soaked for 24 hours so that the small insects that could have remained in it are no longer there. You will find dry ones in pet stores, but I recommend real fresh and green, it looks more natural and pretty. Do not take sphagnum moss, because it could ingest it and make an occlusion. You can also put a carpet of dead oak leaves, previously microwaved in order to kill any bacteria. The meta having become a burrower, think about setting up a cave, a hiding place, a cork bark, in which it can hide and dig. If you want to create a completely natural environment, you can add fern-type plants (bought in garden centers, because those from forests are too large and do not hold), and small plants that live fairly well with high humidity. Most important, a water point. It should be large enough for the axo to swim in it completely, but not too deep, because it is no longer aquatic and no longer swims. You will need a new plant sprayer, as each day you will need to mist the area to keep it moist, but not soggy. Lights and temperature Light Lighting is not absolutely necessary, but it is preferable to put one. A led lamp will be perfect, in order to create a day / night cycle for the animal. As in the aquatic state, it will appreciate less light, so do not take one that will light too brightly, or flashy colors. White or yellow will be perfect. Try to light up during the same hours of sunshine as your home. On average 11h per day in spring, 12h in summer, 9h in autumn and 8h in winter seems a good compromise. Temperature and hibernation It will always stay in low temperatures, no more than 25 ° C. As for many amphibians and reptiles, it will be necessary to envisage a period of hibernation of two months, and to lower the temperature to 5 ° C. You can prepare a smaller hibernation tank with 10 cm of substrate, leaves and hiding places and take this box down to the cellar for example. It will bury itself and will not feed. Hibernation will allow your animal to live longer. Hibernation will also be necessary for the reproduction of your animal, although it is strongly discouraged. It will be necessary to stop feeding the animal a few days before making it hibernate, so that its digestive system is empty. Food His new diet will be composed entirely of insects. You will therefore have to breed some of them, and feed them within 48 hours before giving them to the axo, otherwise they will have no nutritional value. You can also release earthworms in your terra, your axo will feed on them from time to time. Woodlice will also be welcome, they will feed on rubbish in your land, which will allow you to change your substrate less often. You will also have to choose how to feed your animal, that is to say release the insects alive in the terra, which will push your animal to keep its wild instinct and therefore you will not have "links / contacts" with it, it will therefore be less visible. , or feed it with the tongs, which will allow it to no longer be afraid of you, to see it going out to come and eat, to be sure that it is eating well. List of insects to donate Crickets, cockroaches and locusts (remove their legs to avoid injury), will be its main consumption. Mealworms, morio worms, beehive moth, once a month, because they are very rich and will be used as sweets. You can also try the beef heart once a month. To avoid !! Insects such as bedbugs, gendarmes. It is important to vary their diet as much as possible. But even with this strain, you will need to sprinkle her food once a week with calcium, which you can easily find in pet stores or at a nac vet. The frequency of feeding will be about 3-4 times a week. Way of life The life expectancy of your animal is very markedly reduced, going from 15 years (on average) in the aquatic state, to only 5 years in the terrestrial state. Your animal will not be very active and visible during the day, it will be buried most of the time. Do not have fun looking for it, it will only increase their fear of you and increase their stress. It may not be visible for a week or two because it is buried. If you can get your pet used to being. Fed with the pincers, once this habit has been acquired, tap your pincers a little against the terra so that it will associate the noise of the pincers with the feeding and as and when it will know how to register this, it will come of its own accord to the carries his meal. Like any amphibian, it has fragile skin and is very sensitive to bacteria, which is why you should not handle your animal. Reproduction A metamorphosed axo can reproduce, it is strongly advised not to make them reproduce because their descendants will have a very good chance of metamorphosis too. However, if you want to do this you will have to make them hibernate, like many amphibians, it is hibernation that causes reproduction afterwards if your meta. is a female she is not likely to retain eggs, however if you do not wish to take this risk do not hibernate her. I will therefore conclude this article with some photos of my little Optimus (who is no longer of this world today). Article and photos by Alecsandra.

Comment et pourquoi choisir un type de filtration plutôt qu'un autre ? Haut de page quelle filtration? quelle filtration? FILTRATION Different pumps at the bottom of the page as well as filter media There are 5 main types of filter: -1 - the box filter or angular filter : it is used less and less. The box filter is modulated by an air pump, which circulates the water through the filtering mass and at the same time ensures efficient aeration of the aquarium (rejection of bubbles on the surface). These filters are certainly very inexpensive but only the largest models could be suitable for the goldfish tank. Biological filtration is correct; on the other hand, the mechanical filtration (suction of the largest particles) is poor. Finally, they are very ugly. This filter is a good candidate for the quarantine tank (easy bacteria seeding). -2- The compact internal filter : economical and very popular, this filter can be used in tanks up to a good hundred liters for the largest models. It is fitted with a swivel nozzle or not, with variable flow rate (it is better) or not, and now more and more often equipped with a "venturi" system to ventilate the aquarium thanks to small bubbles. Avoid "mini internal filters" for goldfish as they were designed for nano (miniature) aquariums and therefore do not have the capacity to process waste produced by axolotls. In conclusion, provided you do not choose a model that is too small, the compact internal filter is quite well suited to modest volumes (see the question of the flow a little lower). -3- the under-gravel filter : very popular in the past, this filter is now replaced by the compact internal filter, which is more practical. This inexpensive and discreet filter is only suitable for modest volumes and requires the prior installation of perforated plastic plates placed slightly sloping under the aquarium floor (recommended gravel thickness above: 75-80mm ; gravel diameter: 3-5mm). The water is then sucked through the ground and then ejected into the tank thanks to an air column (vertical tube) generated by an air pump (aerator) and / or a water pump as appropriate. It is the gravel which in fact acts as filtering material here: particles and organic waste are attracted under the substrate (mechanical filtration) and then are degraded thanks to the action of bacteria naturally present in the soil (biological action). However, this filtration has a number of drawbacks: it must be placed first when setting up the aquarium and cannot then be removed without having to remove everything; the biological efficiency is excellent but the mechanical efficiency is poor; maintenance (suction of waste from the bottom) must be very regular, otherwise the filter risks seeing its flow rate slow down or even become clogged; finally, this filter is not well suited to the growth of plants because its action disturbs the roots and any nutritious soil is prohibited (it is always possible to have plants that do not require rooting, such as Anubia or Java fern ). Not suitable for an aquarium with axolotls. -4- the "settling " filter is a plastic block with 2 or 3 compartments. A water pump, located in the last compartment of the filter sucks and circulates the water through the filtering mass (for example filter wadding, filter ceramics, synthetic foam cubes, etc.) to reject it purified at the surface of the tank . The biological efficiency is better than for the compact internal filter because the volume of filter material is more generous. It is an efficient, economical, easy to maintain filtration method well suited to medium volumes, the main drawback being that it is bulky and not very discreet (the heating can however be hidden there). Another system also allows you to make your own decanter, but for this you need a piece of furniture that can be closed to put the tank or aquarium containing the pump and filter media underneath: -5- the external filter is an option certainly a little more expensive but devilishly effective for medium to large volumes (from a hundred liters for the most compact models). The external filter is also very versatile (the choice of filter mass is very wide: foams, ceramic noodles, activated carbon ...) The two pipes (inlet and outlet) of the filter are very easy to hide, behind plants by example. It is necessary to conceal the equipment (in the cabinet) and to ensure from time to time that the pipes are watertight. ( You will find links to buy these filters at attractive prices also at the bottom of the page ) Another important point : filtration on activated carbon is possible with axolotls but only after drug treatment. Indeed, the principle of charcoal is to absorb these molecules but the trouble is that releases them, which is why it is of no interest to have them in your filter permanently because it will be able to destroy the bacteria. , worms) you place your charcoal in the filtration and then leave it for five days, after which it releases all the products. The pump should filter at least 3 x the aquarium liter. So for a 200 liters you will need a pump with a power of 600 Liters / Hour. To calculate the volume (liter) of an aquarium we measure the facade x the depth and height. It will of course be a gross volume because there will be decoration, plant sand and then we do not necessarily fill up to the top. Filter flow rate and maintenance Whatever filter is chosen, the hourly filtration flow rate must be 3 times greater than the volume of water in the aquarium. More and more filters are now equipped with a variable flow rate, which makes it possible to adapt the flow rate to your needs. When the flow decreases markedly, the foams or other filter media are then rinsed, but never with tap water because the foam contains essential purifying bacteria which are very sensitive to chlorine. If the aquarium filter is equipped with only one foam (compact internal filter), care should be taken before changing the foam (usually after a few months) to avoid sacrificing the entire bacterial colony all at once: either by rinsing twice. We will only change half at a time and the second half two weeks later. The old block will thus have the time necessary to colonize the new one and enough bacteria will be preserved! Important: the aquarium filter must run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. After a 3 hour shutdown, the colony is largely considered dead because, no longer being stirred and oxygenated, the bacteria die. It can be useful to have battery-powered bubblers available in the event of a power failure or to operate the pump in a bucket, the important thing being that there is always a stirring carried out in the filter media allowing the life of bacteria in also bringing oxygen. Efficient biological filtration: The more the filtering mass contained in the aquarium filter (for example block of blue foam, lava, ceramic noodles, pozzolana, etc.) has a large filtration surface, the more effective the biological filtration. This pleads in favor of a filter of suitable size for the axolotl tank because they are big "polluters". Here is an ideal and inexpensive bacteria fixative. We buy these bags in garden centers and DIY stores. If your filtration system has just broken down, all is not lost: put the filter media (foams, ceramic noodles, etc. in a bucket with the "juice contained in the pump and aerate using a bubbler until replacement If there is a power cut, the same operation with a battery-powered bubbler as for a move elsewhere. The pozzolana is used to make pretty alleys. These are crushed volcanic rocks. Around € 6 for a 15 / 20kg bag. Remember to rinse it well then place some in tights (more practical for cleaning) and add them to the filter media of your pump. Its capacity to fix bacteria is superior to those of ceramic noodles (but not for the same price) for tanks accommodating fish you can place it under your substrate It is a fully biological filtration. The impurities are stopped by the foam, they fall at the foot of the foam and are sucked up during daily cleaning. The foam is never or very very little rinsed. About once a year. The foam surface to be used is to be calculated according to the liter and the volume of the pump. The slower the filtration, the more efficient it will be. There are very few elements that make up the filtration. A basic submersible pump of 2 to 3x the volume of the tank and a block of foam (medium blue foam or similar at least 3cm thick ). Depending on the surface of the foam, it is placed in a corner or across the width of the aquarium. Considering my litrage I had to place it on the width. It's not pretty at first but over time the foam becomes more discreet . For the minimum size of the foam surface we take 3X the volume of the pump, in my case 700x3 = 2100cm2 BUT we are looking to have a ratio lower than 10 imperatively , the lower it will be, the slower the filtration will be and therefore effective since bacteria have more time to do their job. A ratio of 0 corresponds to a zero filtration rate. The calculation of the ratio is to be done like this. V being the filtration speed (flow per square cm of foam) V = (liter X pump flow) / (6 X foam surface) = For example my Aqua: V = (260 X 700) / (6 X 2100) = 14.44 ... 14.44 ... being above 10 I have to enlarge the foam surface. After various conversations with myself I opted for V = (260 x 700) / (6 x 4500) = 6.74 ... So I need 4500cm2 foam. Being limited to 50 in height I must take 90 in length to obtain 4500cm2 Hence the position on the width of the aquarium. It was a usual break-in. A beautiful brown mass settles in the filtration part, it must not be removed. The pump is itself almost never rinsed, when the flow drops at worst every 6 to 8 months lol and again. In fact I think it's the exact middle ground between classic filtration and low tech. Since we let the filtration live by just cleaning the tank. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Article by Bou Roggero-Claudon Elements of filtration: In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Mousses - wadding (perlon) - ceramic noodles Wadding (perlon) Fine filtration of small particles Foams, medium grain filtration Ceramic noodles, excellent support for bacteria Click on the images to be directed to a merchant site 1000L / hour 1400L / hour 2000L / hour

Ca y est! c'est décidé, vous souhaitez créer votre bassin, mare chez vous ! Voici pas à pas différentes méthodes. CREATE A NATURAL POOL IN YOUR GARDEN Replacing a few square meters of sanitized grass with a small aquatic universe animated by the flight of dragonflies, the frogs of frogs and the multicolored palette of irises, this is the original challenge that “Jeunes & Nature” launches you. At a time when roads, industrial zonings and vast cultivated areas distort the value of our landscapes and replace natural environments, the creation of natural oases in your garden constitutes an effective action to protect nature, a fascinating educational tool. for children of all ages as well as an incomparable aesthetic asset that is sure to brighten up the garden. Let's dig ponds! This little article will provide you with as many useful tips as possible for creating a natural pond in your garden. Read it carefully and do not hesitate to contact us for further information. A SPACE RESERVED FOR NATURE A pond is a small body of still water reaching a depth of at most 1.5 meters. Who says NATURAL pond means that the intervention on the life of the aquatic environment will be limited to the strict minimum, in order to allow wild species to develop freely. By preferring to the introduction of exotic species the natural recolonization by plants and animals of our regions, we will quickly reach an ecological balance guaranteeing the good sanitary state and the good functioning of the aquatic environment. The respect of a few elementary principles will allow the spontaneous installation of a whole host of organisms belonging to the different levels of the food chain (herbivores, predators and decomposers), organisms which will take care of the maintenance of the pond themselves! The “natural ponds” action of Jeunes & Nature therefore advocates much more than the construction in the open air of a giant goldfish aquarium embellished by sophisticated play of light, also something else than the installation of a pond. concrete intended to accommodate water lilies, Japanese carps and other avatars of genetic engineering. Quite simply, let's give nature the opportunity to get out of its reserves and to express itself freely in our daily universe: let's spare it a small space in our garden. BEFORE YOU BEGIN Any plan to create a pond must be carefully considered. Before getting to work, it is important to ask yourself the following questions: Do I have the ideal location to create a pond? To install a natural pond, it will be necessary to have a surface of at least 2 or 3 square meters benefiting from good conditions of sunshine. Am I ready to make a human and financial investment? The creation of a pond, even a small one, is in itself a small undertaking. The excavation will require moving sometimes large volumes of soil and, in the majority of cases, the installation of a waterproofing system for the land will prove to be necessary. Am I ready to develop the surroundings of the site? Ideally, the immediate surroundings of the pond should be somewhat developed in order to constitute a perimeter of protection around it and to guarantee the quality of the aquatic environment. The earth resulting from the digging will make it possible to create hilly surroundings, offering shelter to the fauna which will choose to take up residence in the pond (newts, various frogs, etc.). Will young children come to play near the pond? For young children, the presence of a pond in the garden will invariably be a sure attraction as well as a risk of drowning that should not be overlooked. It is up to everyone to assess the importance of this risk and install, if necessary, a protective fence around the wetland. Herons can also come in this pond, if the basin is easy to access they will come to feast on your carp and other fish (I unfortunately had the experience) to grill? yes but the rendering is unattractive. Stretching peach threads across, crossing each other seems a good compromise. Otherwise decoys are sold, in order to deter the herons. DESIGN YOUR MARE That's it ! You are now ready to embark on the great adventure of the natural pond. Depending on the land you have, different types of ponds can be installed: the land is relatively marshy (impermeable clay soil) and is fed by a water table flush with or close to the surface of the soil (located less than one meter deep in summer). In this particular case, which is certainly not the most frequent, you will be able to realize inexpensively a pond fed directly by the aquifer. Its realization consists simply of digging a depression in the clay soil and does not require the installation of a waterproofing system. It is therefore a rather interesting concept because the pond thus created takes on a completely natural aspect; its plant colonization occurs spontaneously and very quickly by the surrounding plants. It may nevertheless present a risk of significant summer drying out. As is most often the case in our gardens, the land is dry and has no flush water table. In addition to the digging work, it will be compulsory here to waterproof the bottom and the side walls of the depression. Most of this document is devoted to the construction of this type of ponds. When making the pond, a series of questions will arise. We will try to answer them in the following order: where am I going to place the pond? which dimensions and which shapes to choose? how to make the pond practically (digging, waterproofing)? how to arrange the surroundings of the pond? how to promote plant and animal colonization? how to maintain the pond? CHOICE OF LOCATION The pond must be set up in an open and sunny place (if possible, it will be exposed to the south and open to the east and west): light and heat are essential for the proper development of aquatic vegetation and for balance. biological pond. The pond will be dug away from trees insofar as the accumulation of dead leaves and especially conifer needles causes acidification, the appearance of a brownish color and excessive siltation of the water (phenomenon of eutrophication). Note, however, that it is always possible to have a net above the water to collect dead leaves in autumn. In addition, the root development of trees does not will in no way facilitate earthworks and could later puncture or damage the waterproofing system. Other factors may still determine the choice of the location of the future pond: for example, you can take advantage of an existing depression or a marshy area. Avoid placing the pond on a steep slope or in an area where it could be subject to landslides. On the other hand, it will fit very well near a scree or rockery. As far as possible, avoid placing it in the middle of the lawn and instead dig it out on the outskirts of the garden, not far from a more “wild” area (for example near a hedge or an area. not mowed which will be an ideal refuge for wildlife). To precisely delimit the location of the pond, it will also be necessary to keep in mind the fact that the outer edges of it must all be level, otherwise the water will escape from it like a plate to soup too leaning! Consequently, the general slope of the land should be as low as possible. If there is a slight difference in level, the outer perimeter of the pond will be aligned with the lowest point. The cavity will always be dug in dry land. It would indeed be illusory to want to build a side earth embankment to retain the tarpaulin: it would quickly collapse under the heavy weight of the water when the pond was filled. THE SIZE, DEPTH AND PROFILE OF THE POOL Above all, it is important to know that the SURFACE available for digging a pond is rarely a limiting factor: with 2 or 3 square meters, it is already possible to create a small harmonious aquatic environment capable of attracting a whole crowd of amphibians and fish. 'insects. Obviously, the larger the size, the more the biological value of the site will increase through the diversification of vegetation and micro-habitats. To give an order of magnitude, know that the usual surface of a garden pond varies between 3 and 25 square meters for the smallest and reaches a hundred square meters for the largest. It is up to everyone to assess the size of the pond according to their possibilities (financial cost, available space, ...). The DEPTH and the SLOPE are two particularly important factors which will condition above all the quality of the pond, its ecological interest and its integration into the garden. You should know that the different species of aquatic plants each have their preferences in terms of depth some water. Thus, the botanist will distinguish: The plants of the banks and marshy banks (forget-me-nots, mints, lysimaques, populations, sedges ...), semi-aquatic plants, rooted in the mud, which protrude at most up to 50 cm deep (reeds, cattails, sagittarius, iris, water plantain, etc.), floating plants whose leaves and flowers emerge on the surface of the water (water lilies, duckweed, pondweed, etc.), Submerged plants , said to be oxygenating (callitriches, milfoils, elodea ...). In order to allow the development of these different vegetation belts, it is important to create gently sloping banks. This also makes it possible to avoid landslides and to reduce, during severe frosts, the pressure of the ice on the walls of the pond; these banks also provide a convenient escape route for animals that have accidentally fallen into the pond. Deeper areas of up to 80cm or even 120cm in depth are also important as they keep areas of open water devoid of aquatic vegetation. What is more, the deep areas provide shelter for the pond animals in the event of severe winter frost. In practice, we will try to dig gently sloping banks converging towards a deeper area. It is the north bank of the pond (= bank exposed to the south) which is the best exposed to solar radiation and which is therefore the most conducive to the development of vegetation. If the surface of the pond is relatively small, care should be taken to arrange this bank on a gentle slope or in steps, while the opposite bank may be steeper to reach a depth of around 80 cm. Pond plants - Ecological categories. Plants from the banks and marshy banks: Scattered rush, Reine-des-Prés, Marsh population, Common Lysimachus. Semi-aquatic plants: Sagittarius, Yellow Iris, Massette. Floating plants: Duckweed, White water lily. Submerged plants: Milfoil. Choice of the profile of the pond. As for the SHAPE of the pond, it will be varied, with CURVED and asymmetrical CONTOURS, but not too complicated (difficulties of realization). In fact, you should know that the more complicated the shape, the more “scraps” there will be in the waterproofing material (cutouts and pieces of unused tarpaulin). PRACTICAL ACHIEVEMENT The waterproofing system Here we come to the most crucial step, namely the realization of the waterproof bowl. To do this, you will have to dig a depression, adjust its profile and place a coating to waterproof the bottom and walls of the pond. We will focus here on ponds which are waterproofed by a plastic cover. Other systems exist but will not be detailed here. Let us simply quote the coating by a layer of clay (heavy to handle and impermeability not ensured) and the ponds whose walls and the bottom are made using rigid materials - concrete and polyesters - whose installation is very delicate and the rather prohibitive cost. So shallow depth over the entire surface of the pond. Significant risk of summer drying out and invasion by vegetation. High depth over the entire surface of the pond. Development of aquatic vegetation on the banks and in shallow areas made impossible. A compromise between the two preceding situations makes it possible to reconcile the advantages of the two types of ponds. It is the PVC COVER which clearly constitutes the best quality / price ratio. 0.5 to 2 mm thick, black or green in color, this flexible material is perfectly waterproof. However, you should avoid walking with shoes on the tarpaulin. Its lifespan is generally guaranteed by the manufacturer for a period exceeding 10 years. Its price fluctuates around 5 euros per square meter. This type of tarpaulin is easily found in most supermarkets as well as in specialized shops (nurserymen). The principle of the design of ponds waterproofed by a tarpaulin of this type is relatively simple. After having dug a depression in the ground, one will successively lay out on the walls of this one: a layer of 5 cm of sand (optional coating layer for loose soils, but essential for stony soils), the plastic sheet, a thin layer of earth which will constitute the “substrate” of the pond and in which the vegetation will be able to take root. Please note, when calculating the dimensions of the pond, do not forget to add about ten additional centimeters to take into account the cumulative thickness of these different layers. Necessary material - earthmoving tools: spades, shovels, pickaxes, etc., - mason's level, - wheelbarrow (to transport the earth), - waterproof PVC or butyl rubber tarpaulin, - sand and clay (possibly). We can calculate the dimensions of the tarpaulin to buy by performing the following calculation: Length = maximum length of the pond + 2 times maximum depth Width = maximum width of the pond + 2 times maximum depth REALIZATION OF THE POOL AND INSTALLATION: Production The outer perimeter of the pond is precisely delimited with a rope, stakes ... Earthworks are carried out with appropriate tools. The profile of the banks and walls is produced according to the predefined plans (use a level), taking into account the additional 10 cm associated with the thickness of the different layers. When digging, be careful not to meet and damage a cable or a pipe that could cross the garden! After removing all the protruding elements (stones, roots ...) that could puncture the tarpaulin, we tamp and smooth the entire surface of the depression. In the case of stony soils, the bottom and the walls are lined, as far as possible, with a layer of sand 5 centimeters thick. The tarpaulin is placed on the walls of the cavity, following the shape of the latter. The protruding folds will be eliminated by folding the sheet sections one below the other. If this work requires walking on the tarpaulin, it will be done with bare feet to limit the risk of perforation of the plastic material. CAUTION: the cover must only be fixed after filling with water. In this way, it will perfectly match the shape of the cavity, which will avoid tensions and tears. Ideally, you should fill the pond with water for the first time and then empty it. This operation allows the plastic material to be cleaned of any chemical substances covering it. We can also take advantage of this operation to correct the shape of the depression, enhance certain edges, etc. The pond can finally be filled with water. Rainwater is preferred to tap water insofar as the latter is too rich in mineral elements (chlorine, nitrates, carbonates, etc.). Too rich water can indeed cause various biological imbalances, such as a rapid invasion of the water by green algae, the covering of aquatic vegetation by a whitish film of limestone, etc. In our regions, depending on the season, rainwater will have filled the pond within a period of between a few weeks and a few months. If you want to speed up the process, you can possibly use water from a well or a cistern (beware, however, of water that has trickled onto metal sheets or that has stagnated too long in a cistern). It is then necessary to cut the edges of the plastic sheet, leaving an additional margin of 40 cm all around the body of water and secure it securely on the sides. Different possibilities exist at this level: they are detailed in the section dealing with the development of the surroundings of the pond. At the bottom of the pond, a thin layer of soil can be dispersed - a maximum of 5 cm thick to provide a first substrate for the vegetation. The soil in question should not be too rich in organic matter (avoid using potting soil or compost soil). You can, for example, work with a 50/50 mixture of sand and clay. Warning not to put too much substrate: once the aquatic vegetation is installed, the thickness of the mud will only increase over time, which leads to a gradual filling of the pond. The plants will be arranged according to their ecological preferences (water depth!). They can be planted directly in the substrate or in a pot. This last possibility is preferable for plants provided with a powerful root system which would risk puncturing the tarpaulin and for plants whose development it is desired to be able to easily control. DEVELOPMENT OF THE AREAS OF THE POND Securing the tarpaulin It is important that the tarpaulin - and especially the edges - are not exposed to direct sunlight because after a few years the plastic material (PVC) hardens and splits under the influence of UV The best way to hide the tarpaulin and quickly integrating the pond into the garden consists of hiding the edges of it under the grass. To do this, simply incise the earth horizontally at the base of the root system of the lawn, along the length of a spade iron and all around the perimeter of the cavity, before sliding the edge of the tarpaulin into the slit thus made. If the shore is made on a gentle slope just before joining the grass, it is possible to create a swampy area that will make the transition between the lawn and the water feature. The banks can then be developed and possibly consolidated with flat stones. Bank development The volume of soil removed from the hole can be relatively large. If one does not want to have to excessively modify the appearance of the garden, the soil will be eliminated. But we can very well use it to spread it on one side of the pond - to the north if possible - so as to create a higher shore which will extend the marshy area, benefit from good sunshine and protect the pond against weathering. Pioneer plants will settle there spontaneously and we can eventually plant some low bushes (not too much: beware of falling leaves in the pond). The opposite bank (south bank), generally more abrupt, could be studied in order to provide easy access to the pond and to strengthen the bank. We can thus lay along it a wooden joist, some flat stones, etc. PLANT POPULATION OF THE MARE Whether plants or animals, IT IS EXCLUDED TO INTRODUCE IN A NATURAL POOL OF EXOTIC SPECIES , not adapted to our climatic conditions. First of all, their chances of installation are relatively reduced and, even if they succeed, they risk spreading in nature, entering into competition with species from our regions and disrupting the functioning of our regions. ecosystems. We remind once again that the population of the pond by local species constitutes the best guarantee of its good biological balance. Spontaneous colonization by aquatic vegetation of an artificially created pond is possible if silt from another body of water is used as a substrate and if there are other wetlands in the immediate environment of the pond. pond. But this recolonization will often be very slow. This is why we recommend you to plant and sow yourself native plants belonging to the different ecological categories (plants of marshy, semi-aquatic, floating and submerged banks. It is possible to introduce at least 1 to 2 species from each category into the pond. These plants will guarantee the aesthetic appearance of the pond and allow the oxygenation of the water, an essential condition for the development of animal life. the importance of submerged plants which provide the water with most of its oxygen supply. The ideal supply of aquatic plants consists in fetching seeds, plants and cuttings from other followers of the natural pond. get plants from specialized nurserymen, while ensuring that we only buy plants from our regions. By doing so, we will not impoverish our wild wetlands q ui host enough many species in the process of rarefaction, some of which are also protected by law (this is the case of our two species of water lilies). Remember also that the law prohibits any removal of plants, whatever they are, in a nature reserve. Too many aquatic plants should not be introduced into the pond as most of them spread and spread very quickly. The plants from the banks and marshy banks will be sown or transplanted from the end of the fall to the beginning of the spring while the other aquatic plants will be transplanted later, from the month of April to the month of July, from seedlings or plants. cuttings. Care should be taken to respect the specific requirements of the different species in terms of water depth, sunshine, etc. These requirements as well as the mode of transplantation (seed, whole plant, cutting, stump division, rhizome (= large underground stem)) If very little substrate has been placed on the tarpaulin, make sure that the roots of the plants are surrounded by a clod of earth before placing them in the pond. It will still be necessary to ballast the roots of certain floating plants - with a stone - to ensure that they are anchored to the bottom of the pond. Submerged plants Hornwort Waterweed Milfoil Ceratophyllum demersum Elodea canadensis Myriophyllum spicatum Floating plants Duckweed Lemna minor Covering Plant Semiaquatic plants Yellow iris Massette Water plantain Pondweed swimming Common reed Branched ribbon Iris pseudacorus Typha angustifolia Alisma plantago-aquatica Potamogeton natans Phragmites australis Sparganium erectum Rhizome Rhizome Plant Plant Stem cutting Plant Plants banks and shores swamps Angelic Spiky fireweed Eupatory chanvrine Aquatic glycery Scattered bangle Swamp sedge Lysimachus vulgaris Water mint Forget-me-not Population Meadowsweet Purple loosestrife Scrophulaire aisle Creeping Valerian Angelica sylvestris Epilobium hirsutum Eupatorium cannabinum Glyceria maxima Juncus effusus Carex acutiformis Lysimachia vulgaris Mentha aquatica Myosotis scorpioides Caltha palustris Filipendula ulmaria Lythrum salicaria Scrophularia umbrosa The sagittarius, the native yellow and white water lilies are partially protected by the law of 12 July 1973 on nature conservation: they can only be taken in small quantities, but cannot be marketed. The marsh callitriche is strictly protected by the law on the conservation of nature of July 12, 1973 and any collection in kind is therefore prohibited, except by way of derogation, only for certain reasons of general interest. ANIMAL COLONIZATION OF THE POND The pond will very quickly be populated by an impressive number of unicellular organisms (protozoa) and small microscopic invertebrates which will regulate its ecological balance and initiate the food chain. Most of the time, these organisms will be unwittingly brought along with the vegetation; we can even speed up the process by “inseminating” the pond with a few buckets of silt from a nearby wetland. After these representatives of the micro-fauna, many other animals will spontaneously colonize the pond and transform the body of water into an environment teeming with life. Among these, the most numerous will undoubtedly be insects: once installed near the pond, some will stay there the rest of their lives (beetles, aquatic bugs ...) while others will not congregate there. than to lay their eggs (dragonflies, caddisflies, mosquitoes ...). Many insect species thus pass through a larval stage adapted to aquatic life before disseminating to new wetlands, once they become adults. We can therefore see that, unlike the vegetation, the animal colonization of the pond establishes itself fairly quickly. Insofar as any animal introduction risks greatly disturbing the biological balance of the environment and causing a profound upheaval in the life of the pond, animals should not be introduced there. In particular, care should be taken not to introduce fish into small ponds (surface area less than 25 m²). In fact, they are likely to compete with other animal species because they consume a lot of oxygen; what is more, they are unparalleled predators capable in a short time of wiping out the insect populations of the pond (dragonflies in particular) and completely disrupting the food chain! Worse still, some species have the annoying habit of stirring up the mud, which makes the water cloudy and therefore prevents light from entering the water and disrupts the development of animal and plant life (dieback of plants, oxygen depletion, etc.). If your garden is located in an environment that is favorable to them, the amphibians (frogs, toads and newts) will come by themselves to colonize your pond. This is usually the case if there are other wetlands in the vicinity, i.e. within a radius of 1 or 2 kilometers. Otherwise, there will be a strong temptation to reintroduce tadpoles, frogs and newts yourself. These animals have very specific ecological requirements (need a hunting area and hibernation sites around the pond) and, if these are not met, they will very quickly be doomed to die in a corner of your house. garden! Finally, it should be noted that all amphibians, their larvae (tadpoles) and their eggs are protected by the law on nature conservation and that it is therefore forbidden to collect and transport them. The only exception that could be made to the rule of “no introduction of animal species” concerns water snails (planorbes and limnea). As their low dispersal power prevents them from colonizing newly created environments and as they play a major role in the decomposition of organic matter, it may be interesting to take a few specimens from nature (pond or swamp) and introduce them into the pond. About the balance of the natural pond ... All living organisms in a natural pond are subject to the same law: to eat or to be eaten. The result is the constitution of a very complex food chain linking plants to predators, including herbivores, not to mention the decomposers that transform dead organisms into nutrients that can be assimilated by plants. Let us take an example by referring to the illustration on the following page: in the presence of light, carbon dioxide and mineral salts dissolved in water, aquatic plants such as the Ceratophylle grow and multiply. The tadpoles of the common toad, herbivorous in the first weeks of their life, nibble on these aquatic plants. But the dragonfly larva lurks; formidable predator, it will consume many tadpoles to develop. This larva will metamorphose after a few years into an adult dragonfly. This will be caught by a russet which can itself be eaten by a terrestrial superpredator. When he dies, his corpse will be eliminated by the decomposers. These are bacteria that transform the remains of living beings into water, carbon dioxide and mineral salts, that is to say the three compounds essential for the growth of plants. The circle is complete ... and the cycle can start over and over again. In the natural pond, these cycles work well and a balance between decaying organisms and decomposers is established on its own after some time. However, all external interventions such as the introduction of non-native fish and plants, the installation of an air pump, ... risk unbalancing the ecosystem or causing disturbances. However, these imbalances often result in various nuisances: proliferation algae, mosquito invasion, bad smells, ... As long as we let it evolve naturally and we are not too interventionist, a natural pond balances itself and is not a source of any nuisance. MAINTENANCE OF THE POOL It's your turn ! What are the animals and plants in the pond? Maintenance work on a natural pond is not normally very important. However, there are some basic principles to keep in mind to keep the pond healthy. First of all, it will be necessary to take care to limit the quantity of plants which decompose in the pond, in particular the contributions of dead leaves. Care should also be taken NOT to MOW THE TURF TOO FREQUENTLY near the pond as the accumulation of cut grass in the water has a detrimental effect on the life of the pond. Ideally, we can even keep a strip a few meters wide all around the room where the grass will be mowed once or twice a year. In this way, a refuge area will be created for insects and amphibians which, in certain seasons, move away somewhat from the aquatic environment. Then, make sure that the pond does not dry out too much in summer. Indeed, if the tarpaulin is exposed too strongly to the sun's rays, it may suffer and even crack! Excessive losses due to evaporation can therefore be compensated for by a gradual supply of city or cistern water (the temperature of which must be close to that of the water in the pond). Finally, you should know that, from its creation, THE AQUATIC ENVIRONMENT WILL NOT STOP EVOLVING AND TRANSFORMING. With the help of animal and plant colonization, the pond will very quickly be populated by a host of organisms. Over time, the invasion by aquatic plants may become very important, especially for small ponds. It will be advisable to limit the development of this vegetation if we do not want to witness a progressive filling of the water body (natural phenomenon of eutrophication). In order to be able to detect any problems (see Table 3), it is therefore important to regularly monitor the development of the pond. In this regard, know that a healthy pond is characterized by a balanced development of its fauna as well as by the CLEAR AND TRANSLUCENT character of its water. In the first months following its creation, any pond created artificially is subject to a risk of imbalance. The latter can be marked by a significant development of floating and submerged plants (algae, duckweed, etc.), often caused by too much nutrient content in the water. Before becoming unnecessarily alarmed, it is above all necessary to be patient: the pond should normally find its own balance with the development of fauna and other aquatic plants. After two or three years, the aquatic vegetation will often tend to gradually invade the whole pond. It will then be important to keep areas of open water to allow sufficient sunshine for the pond. This is why, each autumn, it will be necessary to eliminate some of the submerged plants and floating plants, as well as to mow the plants and the banks (+ export of the mowing product). We can take the opportunity to provide excess aquatic plants to people who have just dug a pond. But beware ! When removing vegetation, certain precautions should be taken so as not to unnecessarily massacre the animals which preferentially take refuge in aquatic plants. Before eliminating the plants, they will be shaken energetically above the pond, then they will be left to rest for a few days in the immediate vicinity of the banks or on a net placed a few centimeters above the water level. In this way, the animals will be able to escape and regain their aquatic habitat on their own. Better still, to leave refuge areas for aquatic life, we will not clean the entire surface of the pond the same day. After a few years of installation, it is possible that the eutrophication process is more marked, which results in a plant invasion, a cloudy water and an increasingly pronounced siltation. Ultimately, we can even witness the biological death of the pond, caused by oxygen depletion of the water. To thwart this process, it will be necessary to drastically limit the development of floating vegetation - which limits the sunshine - and to eliminate part of the mud which tends to accumulate in the bottom of the pond. Finally, if the eutrophication process is really too advanced, we can empty the pond, let it dry for a few days, remove as much mud as possible, while taking care not to make a hole in the tarpaulin, and finally put the pond back under. water. But be careful, drainage should only be practiced in an exceptional way insofar as it strongly disrupts the life of the aquatic environment and afterwards requires the establishment of a new biological balance! Problems that a newly installed pond may encounter Pullulation of bacteria, - milky water - too much organic matter (plants, animal corpses, ...) - lack of oxygen following an ecological disaster - remove the slime - fill with fresh water - wait for the action of oxygenating plants - Water lentils uniform green film on the surface of the water (water too rich in nutrients) - regularly remove the lenses with a landing net or sieve - wait for food reserves to drop Mosquito invasion - young pond: no predators of mosquito larvae yet - water rich in nutrients wait for equilibrium to settle Pullulation of algae, thick interlacing of “threads” of algae around other aquatic plants - water too rich in nutrients - bottom of the pond rich in humus - water very exposed to the sun - remove the debris accumulated at the bottom - remove masses of filamentous algae - promote a natural plant cover of the pond with floating aquatic plants that will limit the sunshine GOOD TO KNOW Purchase of tarpaulins and various materials. Today, getting a tarp is no longer a problem. Most supermarkets (DIY) and other gardening establishments provide it. However, the competition is stiff. Base material (plastic, PVC, butyl rubber ...), thickness of the tarpaulin, width of the bands, texture, number of years of guarantees, are all parameters to be taken into consideration because they vary the prices from simple to triple! Aquatic plants The best solution is to get cuttings from other pond enthusiasts. You can also find a few linen stores selling plants at great prices.

Un vétérinaire tarnais n'hésitant pas à travailler sur tous les animaux existant ! Travail extrèment soigné et explications concrètes et claires. LARROQUETTE YANN VETERINARY CLINIC Share 35 Chemin de Fretemiche, 81100 Castres Phone : 05 63 72 00 08 Open from 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday and from 8:30 a.m. to 12 p.m. on Saturday. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. I took my axolotl to Doctor Larroquette, he had ascites (edema), and his body was swelling so much that the blood vessels were rupturing, blisters appeared under the chin and above the two front legs. On Monday the axolotl began to show still discreet symptoms, on Wednesday it was like in these photos! Antibiotic treatment was prescribed by the doctor. Start of treatment on Wednesday evening: Baytril for an axolotl of 220 grams. Orally, 0.1 ml for 10 days. During treatment, optimal oxygenation is useful with the antibiotic which tends to stifle this exchange (skin / water). The next day the loulou almost completely deflated, apart from his two hind legs, but the transformation is spectacular! Its blisters having broken I was not able to inflict a salt bath on it to restore the osmotic exchange (and therefore promote oxygenation) but as the wounds begin to fungus I put it in a permanent blue bath. Is the concern being stopped? As specified by the veterinarian, ascites can have multiple causes: renal, cardiac, infectious). Since the antibiotic treatment is having an effect, it is very possible that it is a bacterial infection, the other axolotls have no symptoms and are doing very well, but maybe he was a healthy carrier of something or was deficient, it still remains a mystery. The 30/11/2016 It is not pretty to see but deflated . Day 3: the gills strombose and a blister re-swells. So I made the decision to put him back with his friends in the aquarium, because the well-being factor is vital in their healing and I know that he will have plenty of oxygen thanks to the many plants. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Day 2-3-4: Incredible! its regeneration has started the wounds which were beginning to fungus are now clean! The gills grow back, the filaments grow bigger! The wounds are almost all healed, the skin is again beautiful and clear. The blood vessels that had ruptured with the edema are resorbed ... To be continued...

Les accidents sont si nombreux lors des cohabitations. Les poissons carnivore mangent ou se font manger il n'existe pas de "copinage" comme on le lit souvent. Haut de page cohabitation cohabitation FORBIDDEN HOUSING Share Many wish to add "life" to their aquarium, perhaps finding the axolotl too calm ... Yet this is the character of the animal you have chosen to adopt, prefer another in this case. There are so many accidents during cohabitation. Carnivorous fish eat or are eaten there is no such thing as "cronyism" as we often read. "They've been together for two years and everything is going well, there has never been a problem." Good if you think you have an axolotl or an extraordinary goldfish For information, groundfish such as ancistrus and corydoras are STRICTLY prohibited with our loulous. We do not even count the accidents (which in the process usually cost both lives which is very sad) you will no longer be able to say that you did not know. The ancistrus has a dorsal fin strewn with sharp thorns for its defense, so swallowed by mistake or reflex by your axolotl it will bristle it and plant its pincers in the palate and throat of the axo or if it "passes" it will lacerate stomach of it. a corydoras also has a single but poisonous backbone, containing poison. When our nice goldfish may not swallow your axolotl, it will just have fun "waxing" the filaments of the gills by seeing them move because he takes them for delicious worms. And will start over forever. Another point : just ask yourself about the maintenance temperature of any fish that you would like to incorporate? Do you know many who will live comfortably in these cool temperatures? Survive yes but that is not respectful for any species. In addition, the comings and goings of fish will only stress the quiet axolotl, which can cause growth retardation, lack of appetite, etc. The axolotl is sufficient on its own, you don't need other fish. respect it. Besides, little note, an axolotl does not keep at room temperature like a goldfish but at cool temperature (16/18 degrees) at least if you want it to be at its best. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Other risks often overlooked: Flavobacterium which the guppy (among others) can be a healthy carrier or not, it is therefore Russian roulette more information here >>> Intestinal worms that can parasitize fish, they may or may not be visible >>> In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Donc bannissez ces poissons de votre bac à axolotls ! The goldfish gobbles the filaments of the gills of axolotls or even its gills because for him they are simply delicious little worms! Both the ancistrus and the pleco have formidable dorsal and lateral spines, some axolotls unfortunately tried to swallow these fish and found themselves mouth and digestive tract impaled to die slowly (3 days the last case) excruciating suffering for two living beings in the end ... The other point, groundfish love to "suck" the soft skin of axos causing them nasty wounds and burns. The corydoras has a poisonous thorn the risks are therefore quite obvious for the axolotl! Cohabitation not recommended Shrimps such as Red cherry are sometimes recommended on certain sites. We have observed that this posed concerns: on the one hand, the chitin contained in their exoskeleton is not digested by the axolotls, on the other hand the peaks of shrimp can create micro lesions in their oral and esophageal or even stomach cavity, abscesses often come from these micro injuries.

Rôder signifie ''Mettre au point de façon progressive''. Le rodage est essentiel à la survie de vos futurs animaux. roder aqua THE NITROGEN CYCLE ACCELERATE THE CYCLE I have my axolotls but my aquarium is not finished "prowling" ... I have an important concern in my aquarium which requires that I take out my axolotls. Share THE NITROGEN CYCLE OR BREAK-IN ROAD: means '' Develop gradually ''. Break-in is essential to survival of your future animals. This is the process during which the aquarium is prepared for them to live there. Axolotls are poorly tolerant of chemicals like most starter bacteria and conditioners. (This being due to the fact that they do not have scales to protect themselves, their skin absorbs everything as well as a liver that does not filter everything ...) After acquiring your tank / vat, you will have to start this cycle. Water chemistry The well-being of fish and plants is closely linked to the quality of the water in which they live. To obtain and maintain suitable water quality, the aquarist does not have to become a seasoned chemist. However, understanding some basics about the nitrogen cycle, pH, hardness and CO2 is a key to success for the aquarist. This will avoid many of the frustrations that can discourage even the most optimistic. The nitrogen cycle The fish in our aquariums release organic waste into the water. To that In addition, there is the decomposition of plants and surplus food. The decomposition of nitrogenous products leads to the formation of ammonia (NH3), a compound highly toxic to most fish. In nature this This phenomenon is barely perceptible given the immensity of the volume of water involved and the bacterial balance that reigns there. But a tank, however large, represents a drop of water compared to natural expanses. The concentrations ammonia can reach critical proportions within hours. Fortunately, there is a biological phenomenon called nitrification which, with the help of aerobic bacteria, converts the highly toxic nitrogen compounds of ammonia (NH3) and nitrites (NO2-) into other nitrogen compounds that are much less toxic, nitrates. (NO3-). This is called the nitrogen cycle. The principle Organic waste in the aquarium breaks down into two main nitrogen compounds, ammonium (NH4 +) which is very low in toxicity, and ammonia (NH3), highly toxic. Subsequently, these compounds will be converted into nitrites (NO2-) by so-called nitrifying bacteria called nitrosomonas. These nitrites are also excessively toxic to fish. In fact, in an aquarium balanced, as soon as the nitrite concentration is measurable by the tests of the trade, we must immediately proceed to a water change (25 to 30%) in order to eliminate them as quickly as possible. Finally, the nitrites will in turn be converted into nitrates (NO3-) by the bacteria of the nitrobacter type. Nitrates, much less toxic than other nitrogen compounds, are only dangerous if they are in too great a concentration in the water. These will be partly assimilated by plants as nutrients, partly transformed into gaseous nitrogen (N2) and other compounds. Another part will remain in the bin. This is why, once the cycle has been established, water changes of 30% of the volume of the tank per month will avoid a too high concentration of nitrates. How to establish the cycle in an aquarium When starting an aquarium, the first thing to do is to ensure the establishment of the nitrogen cycle. To do this, you must first fill your tank with all the elements of the decor, the plants, as well as the water system. filtration. It is very important that the filtration system contains at least one substrate favoring the establishment of the bacterial colony. (ceramic noodles, pozzolana). It is also important to be able to test and measure the nitrites and nitrates in the tank. These tests are easily available in pet stores and on the internet. It is important not to put fish at this time, because the rise of ammonia and the rise of nitrites that will follow could be fatal for them. The bacteria necessary for nitrification are present everywhere in the environment. It is therefore not necessary to add any to start the cycle. All you have to do is cause the ammonia to rise and the bacteria will naturally colonize the filtration system and the gravel in the tank. A good way to accelerate the rise of ammonia is to put food for axolotls (to avoid the presence of iodine) every two days or so. Once the increase in ammonia obtained (approximately 5 to 10 days), one should observe in the following 7 to 12 days, a disappearance of this accompanied by a rise in nitrites. This means that the colony of nitrosomonas bacteria is installed. It only remains to wait for the colony of nitrobacter bacteria to set up in its turn, which should take another 7-10 days. This will be confirmed by the disappearance of nitrites and the possible appearance of nitrates. The only precise way to see these results is to do nitrite (No2) and nitrate (No3) tests. Once the cycle has been established, it is now possible to add the fish without too much risk. It is necessary to go there quietly that a few individuals at a time, the bacterial colonies are still very young and would not be enough for the task if too many fish started to pollute the tank. In our case, the introduction of axolotls which, given their size, will cause a rise in nitrites within a few days. During the entire cycle establishment period, no intervention (change of water, cleaning of the bottom and of the filtration masses) must be carried out in the tank, at the risk of considerably slowing down the process. Diagram illustrating the different stages of the nitrification cycle. The abscissa shows a graduated scale in days and the ordinate shows the concentrations in ppm (mg / L). Source: All the Aquarium, Peter Hunnam, Bordas edition, Paris 1982 ACCELERATE THE CYCLE If you have an already colonized aquarium (whose nitrogen cycle has already been completed), it is possible to add a second filter (the one that will go into the new aquarium) in the already colonized aquarium for a week so that good bacteria settle there. It is also possible to simply transfer some filter media from the already colonized filter into the new filter. It is strongly advised to add decorations and substrate from the colonized aquarium to the new one since the majority of bacteria are maintained on solid supports, and not in the water. Once you have made these changes, you can fill the tray with water and add the filter, substrate, and decorations. The water should be tested every 2/3 days thereafter. (Nitrites tell us that we still have to wait but nitrates are a good sign because they confirm that the aquarium is well run: in fact to transform nitrites into nitrates it is necessary that the nitrobacter bacteria are in place, so there is obviously already had peak of nitrites). Finally, here is a method to be used only when you have to reseed an aquarium after a treatment (after having generally changed 50% of the water in it and then filtered for 5 days on activated carbon, therefore bacteria. . A brand recommended by specialists: Biockik de Oase, (as well as three others here ) used by large aquariums in France and zoos. But just this brand because you will find a lot of them in pet stores, you will only be embarrassed Most are only perlinpinpin powder ... You can find this small jar in pet stores or on the internet for around € 9 (to treat 5000 liters). We respect the doses listed, in order to avoid the effect reverse and pollute his bin. Put your axolotls in a fairly spacious plastic garment bin type container, and with a daily change of water that will have rested for at least 24 hours in order to dechlorinate it. The ideal is therefore to have two tubs of this type to always have standing water and to change them each day. I have my axolotls but my aquarium is not finished "prowling" ... I have an important concern in my aquarium which requires that I take out my axoltols. Your monthly water changes: You must change 30% of the volume of your water to reduce the natural pollution due to an enclosed space (the aquarium) in order to evacuate the nitrates (No3) and restore a correct Ph and Gh, it is useless to rest this water during the changes the addition is so minimal that it does not bring enough chlorine into the aquarium, once diluted there is nothing. whereas in an infirmary tank with 100% water there yes it must be allowed to stand and sometimes 48 hours and sometimes put will be there because the chloramine takes 15 days to evaporate ...