RESEARCH

Opération incroyable réalisée par les professionnels de cette clinique marseillaise ! MARSEILLE NACS CLINIC OPERATIONS CATARACTE ET OCCLUSION Here is another veterinary clinic treating amphibians and our axolotls, I will gradually put the information and operations made on our scales. They also perform miracles! This is the NAC Marseille Massilian veterinary clinic At CHV Massilia 121 ave de Saint Julien 13012 Marseille Phone: 04 91 82 13 13 Veterinary care for NACs and exotic animals (rabbit, parrot, turtle ...) "Cataract in a frog. This nine-year-old Litoria has clouding of her lenses, especially on the left. She does not seem really embarrassed and continues to eat normally. The causes of cataracts can be multiple (physical, chemical, traumatic, infectious, metabolic, genetic ...). In this case, the living conditions are in accordance with the needs of the species. A genetic anomaly is possible. There is no medical treatment, the only option would be surgery. Of course, this possibility is only reasonable if the handicap becomes detrimental with in particular the impossibility of eating, which is not the case. "Digestive obstruction in a female Physignatus coccinus (Water dragon). This lizard has ingested several small gravels responsible for a digestive obstruction. The surgery consists of opening the intestine and removing them. This female was in the breeding season ( eggs are starting to be seen on the radio) and may have been looking for a source of calcium to make the shell. She has since recovered from the procedure and laid her eggs normally. "

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Axolotls et Cie est un site web dédié principalement à l'axolotl, cet étrange animal aquatique... mais également à d'autres cousins amphibiens. Vous découvrirez sa maintenance complète et détaillée ainsi que de belles photos. Les mises à jour sont hebdomadaires avec l'aide de vétérinaires. Axolotls et Cie is a website dedicated mainly to the axolotl, but also to other amphibian cousins, some articles also concern other aquatic ones, you will discover it, even if the main theme of the site remains the axolotl. You will be able to discover its complete and detailed maintenance as well as beautiful photos. Updates are weekly with the help of veterinarians, and feedback from members in France and abroad; some countries with more hindsight than us. Wishing you a pleasant discovery, welcome! Come and discuss with the members of the forum. Axolotls et Cie Latest additions to your forum! flaviegiorgianni99 11h À la recherche Like Reactions 0 0 comments 0 Views Laurie Gabillard 7d Axolotl malade qui perd ses pattes de devant Like Reactions 0 8 comments 8 Views crissou.oliviero Mar 28 Dons Axolotls leucistiques, gold, sauvages Like Reactions 0 2 comments 2 Views Nathalie C Nathalie C Nathalie C

L'axolotl comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut être blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? Intestinal worms Share In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. INTERNAL PARASITES / INTESTINAL WORMS Symptoms: the animal begins to eat less. It can even regurgitate. The more time passes, the less he eats and the more he regurgitates. He may (but not always) have abnormal restlessness, coupled with violent lateral torsion of the body. The head then touches the tail. He grew thinner and thinner and died after a few weeks. This condition is contagious. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Flagyl is a human specialty based on metronidazole. This active ingredient has anti-infective (sensitive anaerobic germs) and anti-amoebic (which people often confuse it with a dewormer). Often there is an amalgam between product which acts on the level of the intestine and dewormer ... these are two different things! Metronidazole acts against certain internal protozoa (digestive flagellates and coccidia) and imaginal cestodoses. Its spectrum of action is therefore not very wide and yet it is very often used by aquarists ... therefore obviously misguided. Panacur is often combined with Flagyl to treat a wider spectrum of parasites. Fish, like any animal species, are frequently parasitized. These may be parasites attached to the gills, fins or skin (we speak of ectoparasites) or parasites infesting the viscera (liver, stomach, intestine), the gonads or even the muscles (we speak of 'endoparasites). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. It is very common for fish to be parasitized by nematode larvae (or roundworms) of the Anisakidae family. These larvae are frequently present in many species of fish or cephalopods. The cycle of the parasite is as follows: The adult parasite is found in the stomachs of mammals. The embryonated eggs are thrown back into the water. They hatch by releasing a larva which will infect a small plankton crustacean. This crustacean is eaten by fish which thus inherit the parasite. The larva becomes encysted in the viscera and / or flesh of the fish while waiting for the fish to be eaten. Man, through the consumption of parasitized fish or cephalopods, is an accidental host of these parasites. It does not enter into the life cycle of these and constitutes a parasitic dead end. These larvae can cause in humans, when ingested alive, a gastrointestinal illness called anisakiasis or anisakidosis. Due to the sheer complexity of epidemiological phenomena and the variety of hosts, it is difficult to control the presence of parasites in fish. Also, the prevention of anisakidosis involves simple measures before consuming the products. Indeed freezing or cooking is enough to kill these larvae and make them harmless. The fish must then either be cooked to a minimum of 60 ° C (the flesh must not be pink at the level of the bone), or frozen for at least 24 hours at -20 ° C in the heart of the product before being eaten raw or undercooked. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Regarding Flagyl, it suffices to adapt the dosage of course. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Capizol This treatment is now withdrawn from the website following the return of another veterinarian indicating to have observed cases of paralysis in reaction to the active molecule. So even if some vets advise it, caution requires warning you. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The Panacur Active molecule: Fenbendazole Body weight should be assessed as accurately as possible before calculating the dose. Panacur works by removing nematodes from the axolotl. Thus dewormed the animal can regain strength and weight. It is often used when Flagyl has not worked. Different types of worms Nematodes : Treatment is with anthelmintics (dewormers). There are several molecules: Fenbendazole: Panacur (dog), Levimasole: Lobiavers, Capizol, Aquaverm, Flubendazol: Fluvermal, NOT RECOMMENDED FOR AXOLOTLS Benzimidazole: Nedol (JBL). Cestodes : The treatment is based on the use of Praziquantel which is found in: Droncit (Bayer) and Drontal - Dewormer for cats (oral route to mix in food (or bath but less effective and more restrictive) Plativers (Biocanina), Cestocur, Gyrodol (JBL), Tremazol (SERA). FLAGYL (Metronidazole molecule) Or half a tablet (dosed in 500 mg) for 20 L of water, once a day and for 5 days or even 10 days if necessary (crush the compress in a glass of water, a mortar, so that it dissolves better afterwards in the aquarium). If you use the syrup it will be necessary to dose 1ml for 1 liter of water. In the event that your axolotl is severely affected, it will have to be treated directly internally by direct absorption at a rate of one tenth of the tablet per day or more conveniently with Flagyl in its liquid form in syrup! At a rate of 0.6ml per day, it will be necessary to treat 4 days then leave 5 days of rest for the digestive system of the axolotl to treat again 4 days. CAUTION: the animal is generally better after 1 to 3 days. But you have to continue the treatment until the end, otherwise the parasite will come back. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Dolthene (oxfendazole) ? Many undesirable effects on our axolotls, many of them would present an intolerance to this molecule which damages their skin (desquamation) and their gills. Here is now the story of "Bidule" by Campbell Atkins "I got it on 08/31/17, my best friend arrived at my house with it, without my knowing it, because it was for my birthday. At first I didn't know what an axolotl below 10cm really looked like, so for me it was normal (as the seller said) it would grow bigger and bigger and its gills expand. But hey ... while posting a photo of him, someone told me that he was in very bad health! So I came to the groups and there the weeks went by ... I didn't know what he actually had, people said it was going to pass, others that he had worms. So I gave him beef heart, which he ate perfectly well, but ended up vomiting 2/3 days later. But the day he got even thinner, I asked again for advice on the Axolotls et Cie group, and there I was certified that he had worms .. the problem: I couldn't get Flagyl. So a woman sent me 2/3 days after my request, but it was in the form of tablets. On another group, I was told that I had no heart, that in liquid form he would survive with the treatment while there with pills I was going to kill him, that I had no pity for him, that for me it was more of a toy that one replaces once broken ... but I believed in it, he spent a week + 4 days after a short break, in Flagyl (as a tablet diluted in the 'water) and after that, beef heart cure to make it fat! In a week we could already see the difference: redder gill filaments, thicker limbs, bigger belly. He was finally out of danger! The only problem then: the pellets ... he didn't want any at all! I left him for almost a week without eating (I offered to him but he didn't want any) until the day he threw himself on it! For almost a month now, he's been back to being an Axo like the others, eating properly, and regaining a healthy life! " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. This testimony could help people, thank you to Campbell, his perseverance paid off !! The following photos are very telling ... The first days... Anorexia can have several causes, parasitization is one. The digestive system is then irritated and the axolotl regurgitates because its irritated throat prevents it from absorbing food. Today 12/26/2017

Red legs. Pathologie pouvant toucher les amphibiens et urodèles "RED LEGS" OR RED PAW SYNDROME CAUSES The "red leg" syndrome is a common infection in amphibians (anurans and urodeles). This pathology is recognized by the redness of the legs and / or the abdomen of the amphibian and is generally due to the bacteria: Aeromonas hydrophila, an opportunistic bacterial pathogen. But other bacteria have been identified that can cause this pathology: in particular Pseudomonas, Proteus, Citrobacter, Salmonella and Escherichia coli. It has also been suggested that Chlamydia-like organisms and even certain viruses could cause red leg disease. Newly acquired malnourished amphibians that are kept in poor water quality or overcrowded, are particularly susceptible to 'red leg' syndrome, spoiled food, exposure to toxins such as pesticides are also factors. of this disease. Several animals are usually affected if they are housed in the same area. SYMPTOMS The redness of the amphibian's legs and abdomen is caused by the dilation (or stretching) of the capillaries under its skin. The amphibian may even begin to bleed from the muscles, tongue, or “third eyelid,” (a protective skin fold under the amphibian's eyes). Other symptoms that may be observed include: Anemia Lethargy Extreme weight loss Open sores on the skin, nose, and toes that do not heal Ascites (accumulation of fluid in the abdominal cavity) DIAGNOSTIC Your veterinarian will look for signs of generalized infection, which may include inflammation or localized dead cells in the liver, spleen, and other abdominal organs. Blood or body fluid tests to check for the presence of the organism causing the infection are also done. As other axolotls are at risk of being affected, it is good that they receive antibiotics for prevention. Even with treatment, many affected animals will die from this disease. Its course can be so rapid that by the time the animal shows signs of disease, considerable irreversible damage has occurred to internal organs.

L'aquascaping ou comment recréer un décor naturel et harmonieux chez vous AQUASCAPING Share In the 1990s, Takashi Amano, then a photographer, gradually introduced the Japanese aesthetic drawn from the concepts of Wabi-sabi and Zen in the aquarium hobby. The most influential figure to date in Aquascaping, Takashi Amano is the creator of the ADA brand, which popularized a range of products that have allowed a wide distribution of the tools and techniques specific to the discipline. This brand is also at the origin of the global IALPC competition which, year after year, allows the general public to discover the most beautiful creations of enthusiasts from all over the world. Introduction Aquascaping corresponds to the arrangement of the different elements of a freshwater aquarium (marine aquascaping is not very widespread). Starting from the intention of reconstituting a natural setting, the elements used will also be natural: sand, plants, roots, rocks etc. In some aquariums, the fish are there to highlight the plants and other elements of the decor, which is quite paradoxical. The Natural Style This style is characterized by a particular attention to the arrangement of roots, stones and aquatic plants in order to create a magnified representation of an aquatic environment or a terrestrial landscape. In this sense the Natural Aquarium is not a Biotope, in fact the choice of plants, the composition of the scenery (hardscape) or the selected population does not claim to replicate a natural environment but to create an aquatic landscape whose main interest lies in its aesthetics. Aquascaping can be considered as an art form because the objective of the aquascapeur is to restore in his aquarium an atmosphere that he likes or moves. Whether we follow the rules or not, we all do a bit of aquascaping by arranging the elements of the aquarium according to technical or personal criteria. The main forms of aquascaping are as follows: Japanese aquascaping The objective here is to represent in the aquarium a piece of aquatic nature or not (forest, mountain etc.) The basis of Japanese aquascaping is the hardscape, ie all of the “hard” elements such as the substrate, stones and roots. Some aquascapeurs realize aquariums only composed of these elements. The design seeks to approach sobriety, a value sought by the aquascap Dutch aquascaping Undoubtedly the oldest form of aquascaping (competitions have been organized since the 1960s), Dutch aquascaping consists of creating a very dense and perfectly maintained plant mat. Between 10 and 20 varieties of plants are used here. The aquascaper arranges its plants in stairs and creates a main path (as well as side aisles), so as to give a beautiful aspect of depth to the whole. Wild Jungle aquascaping The master of this technique is George Booth. The aquascapeur chooses a focal point in his aquarium on which he wants to attract the eye of the observer by using the textures and colors of the elements of his tank. Most forms of aquascaping follow one of these composition rules: The triatic arrangement: the aquarium elements are grouped together on one side. Their height decreases to the center of the aquarium. The other side of the aquarium remains empty. The concave arrangement: the elements are arranged in a V shape to leave an empty space in the middle. This space is often used to represent a path passing through the middle of a forest or mountains. The linear layout: unlike the previous diagrams, it does not respect a strict rule. The linear layout aims to represent a very graphic whole by playing with volumes and colors. The convex layout: the elements are grouped together to create a visual impact. They can be centered, for example. Some rules and tips 1. Respect the focal point and the golden ratio: so that the tank is harmonious, the aquascapeur determines a focal point (or two) towards which it would like to draw attention. It can be a particularly interesting plant or stone. The location of the focal point is determined by the golden ratio (also used in painting) To find this location you have to measure the length of the tank and divide it by 2.618. Then measure this result on your bin, indicating it with a felt-tip pen (this part has for ration 1). The remaining length corresponds to the length whose ration is 1.618. 2.Use stem plants to carve the decor. 3.Create levels with the substrate respecting the foreground, the median plane and the back plant so that each plant is highlighted. 4.For aquariums below 200l, choose plants with fine foliage so that the tank appears larger. 5.Do not arrange its elements too symmetrical to keep a natural appearance. 6.Group the different plants according to their species for a better impact, do not sparse them. Forest effect Tree alone Mountain effect

Le low tech est ce possible avec des axolotls? Retours d'expériences de membres. What is a Low Tech aquarium? Share A Low Tech aquarium, as its name suggests, is a tank that uses as few technical tools as possible. Often these tanks do not include filtration and heating and only basic lighting, or even no lighting. Inspired by the Walstad method, these aquariums "turn" by leaving mainly the plants and the population of the tank to create a cycle allowing life in the aquarium only through photosynthesis. What is the difference between the low-tech method and the natural aquarium? There is no such thing as 100% natural aquarium keeping, the natural side refers only to the means that plants have to act as a natural filter, that is to say that in a well planted aquarium we can do without filtration. . But even in a so-called "natural" aquarium you have to intervene, contain the vegetation, use lighting, compensate for evaporation, feed the fish. Why is filtration not necessary in low-tech? In low-tech or natural aquariums, it is the plants that act as a filter. If the filtration does not disturb the balance between axolotls and plants, the plants manage to absorb the ammonium obtained from the excrements of the aquatics, thus preventing the proliferation of nitrites and nitrates. Several scientists have shown that, in aquatic environments, plants quickly absorb nitrogenous matter, in an aquarium the same thing happens. They also found that plants can fix heavy metals as well. The various experiments have shown that aquatic plants could very well replace filters. Does it seem like low-tech or natural aquariums are dirty? Absolutely not. A low-tech aquarium is cleaned less often, less siphoning from the ground and less water changes, and the aquarium stays clean thanks to a light agitation that does not stir too much, and thanks to the many bacteria, which take care of degrade waste. A low-tech bin remains clean and the water is not cloudy, but it is certain that it is not a sanitized bin since in low-tech we allow plant waste to decompose naturally and we also use the leaves. dead. Is it true that in a natural aquarium very few fish or axolotls are needed? It's like traditional aquarium keeping, you have to avoid overcrowding. The aquarium should be proportionate to the size of the fish. What must count are the needs of the fish, it is necessary to know if they live in groups, to know their size once adult, their ability to reproduce, their aggressiveness or not, their swimming area (groundfish, medium , of surface). Generally most aquariums are overcrowded, it is necessary to make a choice, the choice of their well-being, happy fish are those who do not constantly struggle to defend their territory or to feed themselves and who can hide when they do. feel the need. Here we will rather talk about axolotls, refer to the comfort table for correct measurements. It seems that you have to feed the fish very little in a natural aquarium so as not to pollute too much, is it true? No, you have to feed the fish correctly, several times a day in small quantities. We must observe the fish after feeding, they must not have too big a belly and that they do not become too heavy or unable to swim, that is the sign that they are overfed. Afterwards, if there is excess food that falls on the sand, it does not matter, once degraded this food will release a whole bunch of elements that the plants will absorb, it will become a natural fertilizer, snails will also benefit. Finally, the fish should be fasted once a week. In our aquariums, unlike wild life, they are fed regularly. A weekly fast allows their digestive system to rest, it helps keep them healthier and alive longer. Do you need a large aquarium for it to work well without a filter? No, it is not mandatory to have a large tank, from 30 liters an aquarium works very well without filtration at all. It suffices to put Ceratophyllum or Elodea, and duckweed so that the environment remains healthy. Obviously, in this kind of tray, you can put either a Fighter, or Killies, or a couple of Dario Dario. Lighting is still necessary for the plants. For maintenance it is as for larger bins. You have to compensate for evaporation, make two or three water changes a year, prune the plants, etc. 2) Aquarium cycling, nitrogen cycle, bacteria: Is there also a cycling period for a natural aquarium, as in the traditional aquarium? There is a period during which the ecosystem is set up, the duration may vary depending on the aquarium, but during this period the aquarium is unstable because a host of bacteria gradually colonize the tank. It is better to wait two to three weeks before putting your fish. For aquariums with potting soil the cycling period can be longer, from three weeks to a month or more. Diana Walstad says you can put the fish in the aquarium from day one, is that feasible? Diana Walstad doesn't say you have to do it but that she does it, she doesn't say that her way of doing things is the best, she only describes her way of doing things, it's very different. Personally, I do not recommend stocking your aquarium from the first day because that would require increased monitoring of the tank and the aquatic ones. During the first two or three weeks, the ecosystem stabilizes slowly, there is no point in rushing. Why stress yourself out by putting the fish in quickly when you can do it in a relaxed and serene way and take your time ?! Does a natural aquarium also experience the nitrite peak? No, in a natural or low-tech aquarium there is no what is called the 'nitrite peak'. Colonization by bacteria occurs gradually, even if there is at the beginning a slight increase in nitrites, the process goes almost unnoticed, this is in the case where there is no powerful filtration and the aquarium is abundantly planted with real aquatic plants. Why is there no nitrite peak in a natural tank? In a natural aquarium nitrification is also done but in a much gentler way. As there is no powerful 'biological' filtration with large filter media, which offers immense ground for the proliferation of bacteria, there is also no sudden increase in nitrites. In fact, the increase in nitrites is proportional to the 'filter' masses present in the filtration and to the power of the filter. In addition, in a natural aquarium, aquatic plants participate in the regulation of bacteria and maintain their populations at a reasonable level. An important thing is that pure aquatic plants take up ammonia in the form of ammonium, so there is no significant nitrification. Is the nitrogen cycle the same as in an aquarium with filtration? No, the same does not happen with nitrogen in a natural aquarium. In an aquarium with filtration, the ammonium cannot be absorbed by the plants since it is sucked by the filter where, because of the filter media, it is transformed by the bacteria into nitrites and then into nitrates. On the other hand, in a natural aquarium, it is the plants that absorb ammonium directly, so there is no large production of nitrates. In a well-planted, well-functioning aquarium, the nitrate level should be zero. There may, however, be some but at a very low rate, if this happens it is necessary to add plants or replace some. Can I introduce my fish as soon as my aquarium is planted and put in water? No, it is better to wait a fortnight after filling it with water. If you find that the aquatic plants are growing well and are healthy, this is where you can start by introducing a few fish. You can optionally test your water to verify that there is no risk to your axolotls. How long do I have to wait before putting on the axolotls or fish? It takes two to three weeks for the aquarium to stabilize. It will take a lot of pure aquatic plants and leave the snails at the start. To put the fish, the vegetation must be healthy and lush. Lots of plants means big clumps of Elodea or Ceratophyllum, vallisnerias, fast growing plants (not like anubias) and not that you need lots of different varieties. I have been offered a product that is supposed to bring bacteria into the aquarium quickly to speed up cycling, is that a good thing? I do not think it is necessary to inoculate the tank artificially. It is best to let the process take place naturally. By putting plants and gastropods, you introduce bacteria that will multiply, no need to spend money and force nature. I was told that bringing bacteria was essential? We can very well do without these products. Bacteria come naturally with plants, snails and water. Our mains water is already full of bacteria which will grow rapidly in a favorable environment such as an aquarium. For bacteria to thrive you need water, light, and a little heat. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Equipment, mixing, lighting: I have an aquarium with an internal decanter, how can I remove the filtration? There are two solutions, either you remove the decanter by cutting the silicone with a cutter, it's very easy, or you remove the filter media and you keep the decanter empty with just the turbine. Why do you have to stir the water since filtration is unnecessary? Stirring is often necessary, not always but often, because this allows the nutrients and carbon dioxide to be distributed to the plants, it also makes it possible to homogenize the temperature. But the most important thing is that it helps provide oxygen to bacteria all over the tank. It is thanks to oxygen that bacteria do their job of degrading and recycling waste. It is only when the waste is sufficiently degraded that plants can reuse it. Stirring also prevents the formation of the biofilm on the surface which, if not broken, prevents gas exchange. I have a 30 liter aquarium with a Fighter, do I have to put a pump for the brewing, is it really mandatory? Nothing is mandatory, you have to test and do according to the specifics of your baccalaureate. It is true that the Betta does not like the current which tires it out if it is too strong. Try with no current at all, it can work very well or with an enhancer. If your plants are growing well and there is no buildup of waste, your aquarium is viable without mixing. Can an air pump be used instead of a turbine for brewing? The ideal is to have a mashing wheel which moves the surface very slightly, or a small internal filter without the filter foams. A bubbler drives out the carbon dioxide and thus deprives the plants of the essential CO2. The bubbler can be useful during hot weather, in case of fish disease, or at the start of the installation of a new aquarium, but that's it. That's the theory, personally, and failing to have a small turbine, I used a bubbler for my 200l, I didn't notice anything abnormal, my plants were exploding. I believe that a bubbler in a large tank does less damage than in a small ... I see the beginning of an explanation. Can I use my external filter if I remove the filter media? If the filter is powerful it is not wise. The external filters are generally too powerful and if you remove the filter media the power is even greater, everything in the aquarium is likely to blow up. A strong current is not necessary and if you have scavengers like Ostracods or Aselles, they may either get sucked in or be injured, and fish don't like too strong a current either. A small turbine (ventury) producing a slight current is sufficient. How powerful should the circulation pump be? For an aquarium without filtration you do not need a powerful turbine, once the volume of the tank is largely sufficient. But this is difficult to find when you have a small aquarium, for this kind of small tank there are small internal filters that you can clamp and you just have to remove the foam. I have a small internal filter, does the foam around the strainer create nitrates? It is quite possible that the foam, as in conventional filtration, produces some nitrates, but this is marginal. If you want to avoid this, just rinse the foam once a week. But if your tank is large, this nitrate level will be insignificant. I have a small internal filter with different foams, should I keep them? No, you don't have to keep them, these foams are intended for a traditional aquarium hobby. In low-tech you just need the turbine to make the current. Optionally, you can replace these sophisticated foams with perlon, just to prevent a snail from getting sucked in and blocking the turbine. Can I use my under sand filter for my natural aquarium? This is not useful because in a natural aquarium there is a need in the soil for an anaerobic zone. This type of filter, even if practical for small breeding tanks, ends up clogging the substrate quite quickly. It should be remembered that, in the last layer of sand, bacteria live without oxygen and produce CO2 by consuming nitrites, if the soil is too oxygenated, this denitrifying operation does not take place and that would be a shame. What lighting can we use in low-tech? Usually the lighting supplied with the aquarium is sufficient. Too much lighting can benefit the algae. In low-tech we use an average lighting of 1w for a maximum of 2 liters. at 1w for 3 liters. The color T ° must be between 6 and 7000K, and the IRC between 80 and 90. Fluorescent tubes are very efficient, it is simply necessary to avoid lighting with the blue color which favors algae. Compact fluorescent bulbs for medium bins are also effective, for larger bins you can add more than one. CFL bulbs for horticultural use are also suitable for the growth of aquatic plants, they give very good results with a longer lifespan, in addition to their low cost. (According to D. Walstad) ( see lighting article ). How many hours a day should you light your aquarium? It can vary from 8 to 12 hours a day. If your aquarium is very planted and especially well populated you can light a dozen hours per day. If you have simple vegetation, and few fish, daily lighting between 8 and 10 hours is sufficient. Remember that the more you light, the more your plants need nutrients and CO2, if these are lacking there is no point in straining the lighting. Lighting a lot is not going to make your plants grow any faster. You have to find the right balance. I read that D. Walstad advises to take a "nap" of 4 hours in his aquarium, is it really useful? This is indeed what she advocates. A cut of 4 hours during the day allows the stock of CO2 to be able to be reconstituted. His explanation seems logical to me, and in view of his bins this method works. It also allows you to enjoy your aquarium for longer since it is lit in the evening, when you are at home, after a day's work. Low Tech suitable for beginners? Even if the theory is attractive. Featured on many blogs as the ultimate solution combining ecology, well-being of aquarium occupants and economy. The Low Tech tank is not necessarily a good idea for the amateur aquarist. Indeed, this system presented as simplistic by aficionados of the all natural and adapted to the poubellarium requires a certain amount of knowledge in aquarist which is not necessarily mastered by beginners. And this kind of natural tank will quickly become an adventure "without a net" which could derail this project by a simple disturbance of the water parameters. So, beginners think twice before taking the all-natural route. Sometimes, it is wiser and more responsible towards your future residents, to opt for a lower volume of water resulting in less maintenance cost than to choose a system that you will not master before several failures. You will need to test the ammonia in your aquarium regularly to be sure that the pollution is well absorbed by the plants. Here are the experiences of the members now axolotls in Low Tech In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "So for my lowtech tank I started it two years ago (early 2016). I had originally prepared the aquarium in the classic way with an external filter, and cycled it for about 4 weeks. On a forum I met a person who kept his axolotls in lowtech. He was very criticized on this subject. But his maintenance greatly interested me being a follower of the natural on a daily basis. I read a lot, French articles but especially English. Some had kept fish "fragile" without problem for years with this technique. Despite the fear I took out my filter, I took it to a friend and put it in his aquarium to maintain the bacteria alive and active, in case of concern. I tested my water every day, with an empty tank next to it in case of problems. I never needed it. From the start my tank was heavily planted, a bit of everything , and with a single axolotl at the start to avoid too much pollution when starting up. 6 months after a second joined the baccalaureate. I then put a small internal filter to create a movement of water, it is not mandatory, but the axolotls are not at speeds. I added emerged plants over time, I test new ones regularly, I find it a plus. I drew a lot of inspiration from poubellariums. I have never siphoned off the ground. I never do a water change. I add a little pipe water from time to time to make up for the evaporation. I rarely prune the plants, I like the mess it gives. I observe a lot, the number of snails, where are they, the micro-organisms, the behavior of the axolotls, the state of its gills, etc ... " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. "The plants in submerged I have vallisneria, java moss, lentils, alterantera Emerged: Monstera, cyperus, dwarf fern, Dieffenbachia, pothos, chlorophytum, lucky bamboo and other dracaena and an unidentified pante. " In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. (To come photos of the new 150 x 50 x 60 bin) In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Thanks to Stella Lagriffoul for this sharing. ^^ In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it.

To test this feature, visit your live site. Categories All Posts My Posts Soyez les bienvenus ! Axolotls & Cie est ravi de vous accueillir. Posez toutes vos questions ici Create New Post Adopter ou faire adopter Follow Views Posts 232 Vous pouvez également proposer des commandes sur aquaterratec afin d'économiser les frais de port. Poissons, crevettes, etc Follow Views Posts 14 Poissons et invertébrés Présentations Follow Views Posts 1 Petit coin présentation de vos loulous, de vous, vos aquariums :) Concours Follow Views Posts 1 Ici vous pourrez poster vos photos. Celle qui recoltera le plus de votes se verra récompensée. Santé Follow Views Posts 18 Questions santé, soins Matériel aquario Follow Views Posts 6 Vous souhaitez vendre un aquarium ou du matériel? Ou bien vous avez des questions? Urodèles et anoures Follow Views Posts 0 Le monde des amphibiens est vaste... New Posts flaviegiorgianni99 11h À la recherche OCCITANIE Bonjour, je suis à la recherche d’un axolotl sauvage environ 20 à 25 cm je suis dans le 31 Merci Like 0 comments 0 Laurie Gabillard 3d Axolotl malade qui perd ses pattes de devant Santé Bonjour, Depuis qq temps un de mes deux axolotls a les deux pattes de devant qui se délitent. Je l’ai déjà isolé 10 jours puis je l’ai remis avec la femelle qui a un ventre énorme j’imagine avec plein d’œufs. J’ai lu qu’elle aussi pouvait mourir si elle ne pondait pas. L’an dernier elle avait déjà pondu deux fois. J’ai mis de l’argent colloïdal dans l’aquarium mais je remarque que son état se dégrade. Je me sens démunie… Like 8 comments 8 crissou.oliviero 7d Dons Axolotls leucistiques, gold, sauvages ILE DE FRANCE Bonjour à toutes et tous, Nous avons des axolotls depuis 2 ans. Nous devons déménager et malheureusement nous ne pouvons pas les emmener. Nous les donnons et recherchons des nouvelles familles qui sauront les chouchouter. Ils ont éclos chez nous, ils ont 2 ans et font entre 20 et 25 centimètres. Merci pour votre retour. A votre disposition pour d'autres informations Like 2 comments 2 Forum - Frameless

Pour achetervos plantes d'aquarium et créer un univers idéal pour vos aquatiques Haut de page catappa plantes lampe algues Haut de page catappa plantes lampe algues Haut de page catappa plantes lampe algues Haut de page catappa plantes lampe algues Haut de page catappa plantes lampe algues Haut de page catappa plantes lampe algues Haut de page catappa plantes lampe algues Haut de page Haut de page catappa plantes lampe algues Axolotls shop Food - care - maintenance - hiding places Check Paypal Transfer Paiements au choix par : Les envois (à votre charge) se font par Mondial Relay, ou bien colissimo si vous préférez. Pour commander il suffit d'envoyer votre liste ou captures d'écrans à naty440@gmail.com galet flottant ou à ventouser (6/8cm) recouvert de mousse synthétique 5€ XL Grande Feuille de catappa, badamier 1 € adoucit le gh et anti mycoses, à laisser "fondre" dans l'eau En taille classique à 0.50€/pièce Fleur de lotus (10 cm) 2,50€ (jaune , vert, rouge, etc) catappa Vous pouvez également choisir un lot à 20,30 ou 50€ selon ce que vous désirez au niveau visuel et selon la taille de votre aquarium nous vous les sélectionnerons . Grande feuille de Lotus (17cm) pour ombrer et décorer votre aquarium 2,50€ plantes Pistias de petite taille 3€ le lot de 3 Plante flottante Ceratophillum 3,49€ Belle plante oxygénante aime être sous la lumière (plante de second plan ou cotés, peut être laissée flottante) Acorus Pusillus 3.49€ lotus rubra 3,99€ Le bulbe est envoyé car les feuilles ne resisteraient pas au voyage, il ne reste qu'à l'enterrer de moitié, pousses vers le haut Pothos pour mettre en trempette 4,50€ Grande fleur de Lotus (17cm) pour ombrer et décorer votre aquarium 4€ et petite feuille de nénuphar 10cm à 1,80€ 17 cm 17 cm 10 cm Vallisnerias spiralis 2,99€ Myriophillum heterophillum 5 brins 2,99€ Plus en stock Cryptocoryne Balancae 4,30€ pour commander écrire à naty440@gmail.com anubia 3,99 € ne se plante pas, s'accroche ou se colle à un décor. Préfère moins de lumière donc coins ou sous l'ombre de vallisnerias pas exemple Cryptocoryne Lutea 4€ avant plan ou mi plan Egeria densa 2,99€ 5 brins croissance très très rapide Plante ox ygénante Cabomba Caroliniana 2,99€ 5 brins Hygrophila polysperma se développe très vite 3,49€ plus en stock Mix Pied d'echinodorus taille de 15 à 20cm selon arrivage 3,49€ plante de fond à croissance rapide qui peut atteindre jusqu'à 70 cm de hauteur et 40 cm de large Vallisneria gigantae 40/60cm 1 pied 3,49 € (arrière plan) Plante oxygénante 3,49€ Anneau de fixation tiges plantes 2/2,5cm 0,90€ 4€ pot de 7cm Microsorum pteropus 4,30€ (Famille fougère de java) ne se plante pas, se colle ou s'attache sur un support bois, roche, cachette ANTI ALGUES Purificateur d'eau, 9W (pour gros litrages) bactéricide et anti algues en verre de quartz 20€. Submersible. (Allumé 2h par jour suffit) lampe algues

Les axolotls semblent parfois tout pâles, beaucoup appellent cela le mode fantôme... Ghost Mode Amandine Garmon In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. This phenomenon is observable in axolotls of light color. When it comes to a transient state (a day or a few hours) the explanation is simple: a drop in temperature can plunge him into lethargy, he is therefore at complete rest and the blood no longer rushes into his body as quickly. gills. Being less irrigated they appear almost white. Often the body also traversed by capillaries undergoes the same loss of color, some cases are spectacular and worry people wrongly. On the other hand, where it is necessary to monitor it is in the case where this "state" lasts longer than a day. Why ? In this case, it may be anemia or decalcification. This should not be taken lightly, if possible consult a veterinarian who can prescribe Calcivet or calcium injections. Check your settings anyway, because a low Gh (water hardness) will already provide an answer to the problem (decalcification). The axolotl needing hard water and calcium in order to stimulate its digestive system, know that everything is linked, a drop in appetite can be observed. You can also temporarily supplement your beef heart axolotl (raw) to help it regain strength, if this is not enough and the GH and Ph are at ideal values. The veterinarian is essential but do not make this state last too long. I also saw an axolotl pass to this state as soon as it was put in a "tupp" quarantine tank and regain its colors if put back in the aquarium, which therefore implies that it is also a state of significant stress. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Amandine Garmon

L'axolotls comme ses congénères aquatiques attrape des maladies, infections ou peut etre blessé, le soigner oui, mais comment? JUMP OUT OF THE WATER Share In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. This can happen if you have not provided a large enough overhang between the water level and the top of the aquarium (minimum allow 15 cm). It is also possible that you have not protected your infirmary tank ... in any case, you must act quickly by putting it back in a tank (with still water or water from your aquarium if it is in the ground. and does not present any concern), with methylene blue. The axolotl can have remained long enough out of water to present burns which will appear over the hours (hence the importance of methylene blue, even Temerol because its dried skin will have been permeable to various bacteria. lucky your axolotl will be saved, but unfortunately you have to consider that internal lesions are present, in which case it will die from a hemorrhage within about 72 hours ... The bacterial veil is the protection of your axolotl, it is thicker in some individuals but do not make salt baths to make it less thick, not only will you stimulate its production, but also you will cause "holes" in the barrier. protective of the axolotl, making it vulnerable to attack by bacteria. This whitish veil is more easily visible on dark individuals of course.

Pour diverses raisons un axolotl peut se retrouver anémié, sous alimenté, comment le rebooster? Axolotl anemic, anorexic During rescues, or after an illness, a parasite, your axolotl can be extremely thin and still continue not to eat. What to do ? Several things must be implemented: give it beef heart, this being extremely protein can restore its appetite and a boost; another tip exists shared by a member. This treatment was prescribed over two weeks by a specialist NAC veterinarian and treating axolotls. Here is the product in question Hill's prescription Diet a / d Restorative Care for cats and dogs It was prescribed twice a day in a large syringe and 5ml at each dose. It is a question of "force-feeding" the animal, the term can seem violent but it is in the life of the axolotl. This mash does indeed contain - 10% iodine which had initially appealed to me, so I asked for the opinion of other veterinarians, including the one I refer to all the time. He confirmed to me that over such a short period of time in such small quantities it had absolutely no impact on the axolotl! (The syringe used is the size of an insulin injection syringe. Thanks to Lil'y Dewey and her vet