RESEARCH

Grace à ce tutoriel vous pourrez vous aussi fabriquer un joli décor verdoyant au dessus de votre aquarium ! Make a pretty wall planter Share To begin with, we glued two pvc paneling panels together and then glued the finishing profiles to the sides. Then drill the holes (larger diameter than for the dowels so that they pass through) for the gutter supports. Stick double-sided tape on the back around and in the middle. Stick it in the right place on the wall Drill the wall for the gutter supports at the appropriate size for the dowels (be careful, no mollys dowels with the pvc paneling). Attach the gutter brackets. Close them by gluing the "clasp" (I don't know what it's called) with silicone glue, special for contact with water. Clip the gutters into it. Planting. Nathalie C Flazzy Boyet Flazzy Boyet Flazzy Boyet Flazzy Boyet Flazzy Boyet I put gutters on pvc paneling to protect the wall from possible splashes and the whole is fixed with 16 dowels in the plasterboard wall. The whole is not very heavy, (to cut the gutters: hacksaw). Regarding the plants used by Flazzy Boyet: there are classic chlorophytum (green and white), green chlorophytum, for ferns there are nephrolepis and adiantum. At the end of the month I put an extra grow light on them because they are of course on the wall and therefore not exposed to daylight. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Here are the links: http://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/produits/gouttiere-demi-ronde-pvc-girpi-dev-25-cm-grise-l-2-m-e99572 http://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/produits/support-pour-gouttiere-dev-25-gris-pvc-e160285 http://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/produits/fond-unique-pour-gouttiere-demi-ronde-dev-25-ardoise-pvc-e1401433948 In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Thanks to Flazzy Boyet for this tip :)

Ambystoma Tigrinum or Tiger salamander Depending on the type of tiger salamander you have, their back color tends to vary between olive green, gray, and golden yellow. They have black, brown or gray spots on their body, which gives them their name (tiger). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Tiger salamanders are usually between 6 and 10 inches in length, but it is not uncommon for them to reach 13 inches. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Tiger salamanders can live between 10 and 25 years with proper care. They come from North America. The Tiger Salamander has two specific phases in its life cycle, both of which determine the habitat in which they are found. The larvae are fully aquatic, living in shallow ponds and lakes. The adults are terrestrial and only return to the water for breeding purposes. They are found digging in the meadows and hiding in the undergrowth. they are hardly ever seen in the open. They are very curious and lively, and can often be seen exploring. They are relatively easy to maintain. Adults are quite large and will require a larger terrarium than most terrestrial amphibians. A 120 liter terrarium should be sufficient for 2 adult salamanders. However, offering them more will obviously be ideal. They are quite sociable and can cohabit with other tiger salamanders. They do well in a woody setting with a coconut shell substrate. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The larvae are fully aquatic, so if you have a tiger salamander in the larval stage you will need an aquarium heated to around 19 ° C with 15cm of water at the bottom. A filter, a descent / exit trail, and rocks to hide behind will also be necessary to ensure the health of your larvae. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Adult salamanders should be fed daily a varied diet of appropriately sized insects, including mealworms, crickets, small leafhoppers, meal beetles, waxworms, moths, caterpillars, earthworms, woodlice. Feed with 3 or 4 insects per salamander per food bowl. Live foods should be sprinkled with calcium and vitamin supplements once a week. Tiger salamanders will actively hunt for their food, instead of waiting for it to come to them like other frogs and salamanders. This makes them fun to watch at mealtime. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Your Tiger Salamander's terrarium should be inspected and cleaned daily when changing the water. Every two to three weeks, thoroughly clean the tank and sterilize using a reptile / amphibian friendly disinfectant. Sterilize any decor and carefully remove any live plants to be replaced when the bin has been cleaned. Your salamander (s) should be moved to a temporary bin during cleaning. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. All amphibians have delicate skin and the oils and salts on our skin can cause them damage. It is recommended to wear gloves if handling is required. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. MUE: Tiger salamanders shed their skin at regular intervals as they grow older. The old skin is pushed back with the hind legs and the skin peels off from the back. The skin should come off in one piece and is normally eaten by the salamander. The skin is pushed forward using its legs towards the mouth. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Females tend to be taller than males, with males being more slender. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Your terrarium must contain: In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. A thick-layered coconut fiber substrate as they like to burrow, sphagnum moss, peat moss, live moss and a selection of live plants (see in paludarium and vivarium) can all be used in your setup. Avoid using vermiculite and gravel as they are not good for digging. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. A place your salamander can hide and climb In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. All amphibians need a place to hide and can become stressed if this is not provided. It could be a flowerpot on the side, a hiding place (see site shop). In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Logs and cork bark make great natural additions to your terrarium and make great hiding places. Plants and stones can also be used. Stones or branches of nature should be disinfected by first soaking them in a chlorine / water solution, then rinsing thoroughly, soaking in clean water, and then left to dry in the sun. Some live plants can be harmful to your salamander, if in doubt please consult the list of safe plants that can be used. A change of scenery Tiger salamanders are very curious animals and love to explore new environments. From time to time, change the layout of the terrarium; this will keep your salamander from getting bored. You will notice that once you put your salamander (s) back in the bin, it will start exploring its new surroundings again. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. All amphibians need fresh water daily. A large bowl of water should be provided (no deeper than the height of the resting salamanders) with spring water. The water should be changed daily to avoid the build-up of bacteria. Salamanders like most amphibians will absorb water through their skin and since their water bowl is used as the primary place for defecation, it is important that it is cleaned regularly. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Regularly misting the tank with spring water will ensure that the substrate does not dry out. Placing the water bowl in the warmer side of the terrarium will also increase humidity levels, although your salamanders are unlikely to need additional humidity. In the wild, they live in fairly dry grasslands, so just keep your substrate moist. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. The ideal temperature for your salamander (s) is 18-21 ° C with a slight drop in temperature at night of 2 or 3 degrees. Additional heating should not be needed for most of the year, but in winter, heat can be provided using a heating mat regulated with a thermostat. Heating mats should only cover between one-third and one-half of the floor or wall space to allow your salamander to thermoregulate itself. A cool skin should be placed on one end of the tank and a warmer skin on the warmer end, giving your salamanders a place to hide at both ends. Never use heat lamps or lamps for amphibians, as they can cause your salamanders to dehydrate. It is helpful to have a small thermometer at each end of the terrarium to check the temperature. In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Tiger salamanders do not need UV lighting if they have enough vitamins and variations in their diet. Although the living plants in your terrarium will die without any light. A low UV led tube is ideal because it does not give off heat and will help plants thrive. You need to place the light on one side of the terrarium creating a gradient of light so that your salamanders can find a darker spot away from light though. Ideally, you should turn on lighting to mimic the natural habitat of salamanders by having a 12/12 - 12 hour light and 12 hour dark system. http://www.theamphibian.co.uk/

Pietro Cassino from Nice Newts & Co Share Ambystoma Dumerilii Ambystoma dumerilii is unique in many ways. Like its cousin, the axolotl, this salamander lives in a neotonic state. They therefore do not metamorphose and, consequently, only live in the aquatic state. Lake Patzcuaro Salamander has been overexploited for human consumption and for medical purposes. The Dumerlii breeds only in this lake, in northwest Michoacan, Mexico, at an elevation of 1920 meters above sea level. Due to pollution of the water and some species of fish invasive, the future of this species is very uncertain. (The Dumerilii was introduced to Turtle Island to preserve the species). APPEARANCE These specimens can reach a length of 35 cm. Compared to terrestrial salamanders, Ambystoma Dumerilii is perfectly adapted to aquatic life, with very filamentous outer gills, its simplified shape, a caudal fin along the tail. Its massive head is flattened, which allows this salamander to be an extremely effective fish hunter (in its microcosm of course). Its basic color is gray-brown, but it can also have a reddish coloration with very purple gills. Depending on the temperature, the oxygen content and the chemistry of the water, the gills can vary in size and also branch out more. The pads and toes are chocolate brown. For animals bred in captivity, after many generations their dark brown toes are gone. The top of their head and body are covered with glands that secrete a milky substance with an unpleasant odor and bitter taste. This liquid is believed to work as a defense mechanism against predators. REPRODUCTION The eggs are laid during the winter months when the lake water temperature cools to 9 ° C up to 1,500 eggs are laid in aquatic plants or stuck to stones. The eggs are left to chance, by the parents. DIET With its large flattened head and quick reflexes, flattened head, the Dumerilii is a formidable hunter. In the wild, its main food source appears to be the dwarf crayfish (Cambarellus patzcuarensis), which in trade is orange in color. The larvae of insects and worms are also avidly eaten. In captivity, the dumerilii is shown to be a voracious. He will behave as if he is starving by standing and begging relentlessly in front of the glass and swimming up and down. STATUS AND PROTECTION Due to its very limited presence in a single Mexican mountain lake, which has not been designated as a protected area, the Dumerilii is considered one of the most endangered species of salamanders. This species has been exploited for decades by fishermen for food and to make medicines for respiratory diseases. It is reported that 19 tonnes were fished in 1987, 12.5 tonnes in 1988, 1.7 tonnes in 1989, and 2 tonnes in 1991. Since 1991, fishermen have not been able to locate them, so their number is no longer measurable. The fishermen interviewed have not caught a single salamander in recent years! Due to the lack of sewage treatment facilities in Lake Pátzcuaro, with a city of over 50,000 inhabitants, this lake is heavily polluted by sewage. Increasing eutrophication causes an annual bloom of algae. In addition, predators, such as the highly invasive Tilapia species, have been introduced into the lake and are multiplying (eating the eggs and juveniles of the Dumerilii). The habitat of the salamander in Lake Patzcuaro is less than 10 km². The International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) lists Ambystoma dumerilii as "critically endangered". This species is also listed in the Convention on International Trade in Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), Appendix II Endangered, as one of the top 5 most endangered salamanders in the world! Thanks to Pietro Cassino from Nice Newts & Co for these beautiful pictures of his Dumerilii

Ambystoma Maculatum Share Spotted Salamander Particularly shy burrowing salamander. The animal is nocturnal and difficult to observe even in a terrarium because it only comes out around 2 - 3 am to feed. In winter, they are kept in a relatively dark place at temperatures of 5 - 7 ° C. These then become very active throughout the day. APPEARANCE: This easy to recognize salamander is dark gray to black above with a row of bright yellow spots from mouth to tail. It is bluish gray on the stomach. Her skin is smooth, moist and unprotected. The tail is long and thick. Maculatum resembles salamandra salamandra, except this salamander is less massive and does not have parotoid glands. ORIGIN: It is a salamander whose size varies between 10 and 25 cm in its country of origin (North America and the Canadian provinces of Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island). It is mostly found in deciduous forests with a thick layer of organic matter. This species is distributed throughout eastern North America. This salamander cannot stand heat, and in its country of origin is already active between the patches of snow at temperatures of the order of 2-3 ° C. WORSHIP: During the day, it stays in the damp darkness of the forest, hidden under a log or a stone and sometimes in the burrow of another animal. At night, she goes out to look for her food on the forest floor. This is made up of larvae, worms, slugs, spiders, centipedes and other small insects. It locates its prey thanks to its sense of smell and sight. It also adopts this behavior in a terrarium where it spends most of its time buried under leaves or soil and only eats live prey that it catches at night or in dark weather. This salamander hibernates during the winter months if the temperature drops below 5 ° C. In captivity, hibernation is not mandatory if reproduction is not desired. REPRODUCTION IN NATURE: She reaches sexual maturity from the age of two. It reproduces very early in the spring in water where it deposits clusters of eggs which will become larvae. It changes habitat depending on the time of year; in spring it mates in temporary or permanent ponds and in summer it migrates to mixed and deciduous forests. To go from breeding ponds to forests, it passes through migration corridors with still water and wet soils. In his country, it is during the nights of April and May after the snowmelt that we can observe it in ponds, in the middle of the mating season. The male performs a complex ritual to seduce the female. The female is courted by several males. Courtship appears to be triggered by spring rains or their alternation with drier periods. Some sources indicate that this salamander is fertilized in the fall and comes to lay eggs in the spring in temporary or permanent ponds. But then why are there courtship displays on the part of the males in the spring on the water points and deposit of spermatophores? (photo to integrate) During the courtship display, the male guides the female with small nods towards the spermatophore which he has deposited on the bottom of the pond. She lays her eggs in the form of gelatinous packets the size of a fist and attaches them to aquatic plants (this looks very much like the eggs of common frogs). The female is able to lay several hundred eggs in packages of 1 to 250 eggs. Some larvae develop into adults at the end of summer while others overwinter buried in mud at the bottom of the water and transform at the end of the second summer. MAINTENANCE : Like the tiger salamander, the spotted salamander keeps very well in captivity at room temperature or cool. It is particularly afraid of heat, so above all no heating of the terrarium. In addition, since the animal is nocturnal and shy, it is not necessary to light. If lighting is installed for the plants, it is imperative to set up hiding places and check that it does not heat the space. Reminder: these animals observe each other, but do not manipulate each other. The terrarium does not have to be huge. A floor dimension of 60 cm by 40 cm is acceptable for two salamanders. The live food offered must be adapted to the size of the animal and not have a too thick shell (it is therefore necessary to avoid poorly nutritious mealworms and certain beetles). Also beware of some very poisonous spiders and other myriapods which can be dangerous. This salamander is able to fast for several weeks in very cool periods. As a substrate, a thick layer of heather earth (its natural acidity prevents mold from growing) mixed with a little forest soil. This should be kept moist by spraying and not soggy. Finally, a layer of dead leaves, patches of forest moss and some bark are welcome. This salamander does not climb the windows, but a mesh cover on the terrarium is necessary for the good ventilation of the whole and the maintenance of the insects which will always try to escape. For reproduction, it is necessary to install a water point of a large size. It should not be deep, but it should have fine branches to prevent drowning and have anchor points for the packages of eggs. REPRODUCTION IN CAPTIVITY: It can be difficult because it is really necessary to reproduce the natural conditions of their wild environment of life with marked cycles of cold, rainy periods ... For this, the best is to install an outdoor pool with an enclosure capable of preventing any escape and let nature and the seasons take its course. This experience should be avoided in a hot Mediterranean climate and should be done in the shade with a relatively large number of individuals of both sexes over two years of age. The sexing of individuals is a little more difficult to do than in ambystoma mavortium or tigrinum.

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Share Ambystoma andersoni, also called Salamander Anderson, is a neotonic salamander from the Zacapu Lagoon in the northwestern Mexican state of Michoacán. Morphology The Andersoni is about 20/22 cm tall, he is stockier than his cousin the axolotl. Its body is robust with a short tail, a reduced caudal keel, short, very webbed fingers and toes. Its general coloring is reddish-brown and it is covered with numerous black spots, sometimes interconnected. Some individuals have transformed in the laboratory, as was the case with Ambystoma Dumerilii and Ambystoma. Taylori, but did not live long. No transformed individuals have been found in nature. Unlike its cousin the axolotl, they have a membrane between their fingers, creating a much larger web. In the wild, the Andersoni live in cool, oxygen-rich waters. Lake Zacapu is located next to the town of the same name. Temperatures range from a minimum of 8 ° C to a maximum of 24 ° C. The size of the lake is only 39.96 hectares, with a depth not precisely known. The water is opaque and has a gray color. The lake is located at an elevation of 1990 meters above sea level in the Mesa Central, (part of Mexico), in an area where many species of neotonic ambystoma originate. The temperature of the lake is moderate, with a low salt content. It is fed from a single tributary, which flows from Lake Patzcuro to Lake Zacapu. Natural habitat characteristics: pH Between 6.8 and 7.5 GH (total hardness) at 5 ° dH KH (carbonate hardness) at 4 ° dH Air temperatures: min. 7.6 ° C; max. 24.7 ° C Water temperature 15.7 ° C - 20 ° C (December - February) UV index about 7-8 humidity at 69-78% Socialization with other species, for example the Axolotl is not advised. Indeed a hybridization of the two individuals would tend to lose the specificities of each species. Andersonis are much more active and lead a diurnal life unlike axolotls which are nocturnal. Some might disturb others. This species is also less "aggressive". The habitat Like his cousin, he must arrange hiding places and the shade of the plants will be beneficial to him also bringing oxygen as in his natural place of life. The temperature should not exceed 23 ° C, even in summer. Never. The aquarium The same dimensions as those recommended for axolotls, ie: for two individuals 100 x 40 x 40/50 minimum, but the ideal remains to plan more given their more important activity. And they are also jumpers like their cousins so you have to either install a protection on the top of the aqaurium, or leave a minimum of 15 cm without water. Floor Fine sand or micro balls for obvious reasons, avoid occlusions. And obviously not sharp like quartz which in addition to damaging the stomach and intestines if swallowed, would injure them between the toes (also remember that it contains metals). Temperature The water temperature can be between 10 ° and 20 °, but in all cases below 22 ° C, high temperatures make ambystomae prone to fungal diseases (yeast infections) and make them more nervous and stressed. The ideal is between 15 and 18 ° Celsius. Breeding Andersoni is considered difficult. In nature, courtship displays take place in the spring when there is slight warming. Food Feeding can be done at any time, as the Andersoni are diurnal and crepuscular hunters. A varied diet is important to maintain good health. Every 2-3 days is sufficient for adult individuals. You can feed them with fish flesh, special Andersoni pellets (or axolotls), on the other hand especially not to give earthworms to juveniles because this would increase the risk of metamorphosis according to specialists. We are essentially on the same diet as axolotl. Nathalie Chassagne

Share Fire-bellied titron Cynops Orientalis Cyril Potey Maintenance The Cynops orientalis has a relatively large head, especially when compared to the criteria of its genus. Rounded in shape, it is thick, longer than wide. It is a black amphibian with a belly that can oscillate between bright red and marked orange. Its tail is rather short and flattened. Its body does not have the roughness of other Cynops, although the term smooth cannot be used to describe it. His life expectancy is around 15 years. It is a calm species that should be avoided to handle, because it is very prone to stress. ◾ Adult size: 6 to 10 cm. The female is often slightly larger than the male. It is the smallest representative of Asian Cynops. The female is larger and wider and her tail is more rounded at the end. Natural habitat ◾Geographical distribution: The Cynops orientalis is endemic to China, where it lives in the south-eastern regions, at high heights, therefore cool temperatures. ◾Biotope: Its habitat consists of shallow water bodies, mountain ponds and streams winding through forests. Maintenance ◾Dimensions and description of the terrarium: Due to its small size, we can move towards an 80 liter aquarium to raise a small group of 4 Cynops orientalis (an aquarium at least 60 cm wide). Only rarely coming out of the water, only a small part will be provided which may consist of a floating stump or a small island. The aquatic part must represent at least two thirds of the aquarium. The tank must be very strongly planted and the lighting restricted, never directly on the animals. These are little runaways, think about covering your aquarium (cover, mosquito net, plastic mesh for gutters, etc.). ◾Temperatures: The water must not exceed 18 ° C, and can drop to around 12 °. It is not mandatory to carry out a winter rest period, but it will be quite possible to lower the temperatures to around 8-10 ° C for 2 months, with a cycle of descent and gradual rise in these temperatures. . ◾Hygrometry: The Cynops orientalis living mainly in water, the hygrometry is of less importance. ◾Group composition: It is a calm and very sociable species which can evolve in a group without any problem. ◾ Diet: The Cynops orientalis is an easy to feed species. Its diet will consist of earthworms that can be bought in fishing stores, bloodworms, tubifex and small freshwater shrimp. All adapted to the size of the individual's mouth. ◾Reproduction : Reproduction of this species is quite difficult, since it is closely linked to seasonal cycles, and if these are not reproduced at a minimum in captivity, individuals find it difficult to find the right biological rhythm. The courtship display takes place with the male who comes to caress the flanks of the female with the tail wagging. Following mating, the eggs will be deposited on the leaves of plants, there may be up to 100. In order to avoid the destruction of these, it is strongly recommended to cut the leaves containing eggs for them. put in small containers of around 30 liters. The hatching will arrive about ten days later and the young will have to be fed on daphnia and mosquito larvae. Their bins should have a dry area. In less than a month the four limbs appear, and the larvae are ready to reach dry land. Juveniles tend to be much more terrestrial than aquatic and will need to be placed in a terrarium with a reduced water area. Their food will consist of micro-crickets and fruit flies. Young specimens that can now drown become terrestrial for about a year. In fact, the terrestrial period varies from six months to almost three years. Due to their small size, juveniles are difficult to feed because they need tiny prey (fruit flies, aphids, mini insects). Do not confuse the Cynops Orientalis with the Orientalis which has a much rougher skin. I'm a title. Click here to edit me. I'm a paragraph. Click here to add your own text and edit me. It's easy. Just click “Edit Text” or double click me to add your own content and make changes to the font.

Ambystomas Share Ambystoma altamirani Dugès, 1895 Ambystoma amblycephalum Taylor, 1940 Ambystoma andersoni Krebs & Brandon, 1984 Ambystoma annulatum Cope, 1886 Ambystoma barbouri Kraus & Petranka, 1989 Ambystoma bishopi Goin, 1950 Ambystoma bombypellum Taylor, 1940 Ambystoma californiense Gray, 1853 Ambystoma cingulatum Cope, 1868 Ambystoma dumerilii (Dugès, 1870) Ambystoma flavipiperatum Dixon, 1963 Ambystoma gracile (Baird, 1859) - Dark salamander Ambystoma granulosum Taylor, 1944 Ambystoma jeffersonianum (Green, 1827) - Jefferson Salamander Ambystoma laterale Hallowell, 1856 - Blue-spotted salamander Ambystoma leorae (Taylor, 1943) Ambystoma lermaense (Taylor, 1940) Ambystoma mabeei Bishop, 1928 Ambystoma macrodactylum Baird, 1850 - Long-toed salamander Ambystoma maculatum (Shaw, 1802) - Spotted salamander or Spotted salamander Ambystoma mavortium Baird, 1850 - Texas Tiger Salamander Ambystoma mexicanum (Shaw & Nodder, 1798) - Axolotl Ambystoma opacum (Gravenhorst, 1807) Ambystoma ordinarium Taylor, 1940 Ambystoma rivulare (Taylor, 1940) Ambystoma rosaceum Taylor, 1941 Ambystoma silvense Webb, 2004 Ambystoma subsalsum Taylor, 1943 Ambystoma talpoideum (Holbrook, 1838) Ambystoma taylori Brandon, Maruska & Rumph, 1982 Ambystoma texanum (Matthes, 1855) - Short-nosed salamander Ambystoma tigrinum (Green, 1825) - Tiger salamander Ambystoma velasci (Dugès, 1888) Source https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ambystoma Tigrinum Mavortium Barbouri Jeffersonianum Texanum Cingulatum Lateral Taylori Cingulatum Talpoideum Dumerilii Maculatum Andersoni Opacum

Contact us To send I want to subscribe to the newsletter. Thank you for what you sent ! Hello, let me introduce myself, Nathalie, I have been an aquarist for over 30 years. I learned, thanks to other enthusiasts. I created this site "Axolotls et Cie " because my experience associated with that of veterinarians, a zoologist, members of other countries, and the experience of the members of the group, allows to constantly identify new techniques of care, to continuously evolve in our approach to axolotl maintenance, (food, adapted aquarium). Every beginner makes mistakes, but this can and should be corrected quickly. If you have a question or encounter a problem on the site or with your axolotl, do not hesitate and ask your questions on the In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Axolotls et Cie - FRANCE In addition to this, you will need to know more about it. Forum

Grants, events, competitions ... Share En ce moment !! Presence of Axolotls et Cie at the Montauban Aquarium Exchange http://www.ladepeche.fr/article/2015/11/02/2209068-bonne-prise-au-marche-gare.html Photos of the journalist of the Dépêche du Midi